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BORDER STATES 



OF 



lEXICO. 



FOR SAl-E BY ALL NZ'^VS DEALERS 




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"Journal of Commerce," 
Y rjt to give a general view 
also publish in a future 
-Tvevs. 




BORDER STATES OF MEXICO: 

SONORA, SiNALOA, CHIHUAHUA 
AND DURANGO. 

With a General Sketch of the Republic of Mexico, and Lower California, 
Coahuila, New Leon and TamauliDas. 



A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST REGIONS 

FOR THE 

Settler, Miner and the Advance Guard 
of American Civilization. 

The Mining Districts and Mines, the Agricultural and Grazing 
Regions, Cities and Towns, Location and Distances and Prin- 
cipal Business Men, Factories, etc., Exports, Imports and 
Productions ; to which are added, Resources of 
Mexico, Duties, the Trade with Mexico, How 
to acquire Property in Mexico, Rail- 
roads AND Traveling in the 
Republic, 

Collected from all the Works extant on Mexico, and Reports of Travelers, Official Records, 

and Reports of Mining Experts and Old Residents, with Information 

up to date ; the whole making 

A Complete Guide 

FOR 

TRAVELERS AND EMIGRANTS. 



BY :: • 

LEONIDAS HAMILTON. 

San Francisco: --.-.--U.^^';;-' - 

BACON & COMPANY, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS, "' 
Corner Clay and Sansome Streets. 
i88i. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by 

LEONIDAS HAMILTON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. O. 



\ '.'I 



\ '.'I 



Introduction 



Believing that a more complete description of the northern part of our sister 
Republic will conduce to the advancement of the mutual interests of the United 
States and Mexico, the author submits the result of Careful investigation of the 
four northern states of Mexico to the public. We respectfully acknowledge our 
indebtedness to Ex-Governor Monteverde, of Sonora, and Benjamin R. Rountree, 
John A. Robinson, Don Celedonio Ortiz, L. Gilson, and I. Thannhauser, of this 
city, and E. C. Hoffman, of San Jose, and many others, for much of the informa- 
tion contained in the following pages. We have aLo availed ourselves of the 
valuable and almost inaccessible work of Mr. Ward on "Mexico in 182'7," from 
which we have taken everything of interest applicable to the subject-matter; and 
the valuable work of Mr. Mowry on Sonora and Arizona, and the impartial Span- 
ish work of Francisco Velasco on Sonora, and translated into English by Mr. Wm. 
F. Nye, in this city, in 1861, and the work entitled "Travels on the Western 
Slope of Ihe Mexican Cordillera," by Cincinnams, and Mr Ruxton's work on "Ad- 
ventures in Mexico," and the late work of Antonio Garcia Cubas on " The Repub- 
lic of Mexico in 1876," translated by Mr. Geo. E. Henderson, in Mexico, and 
(jfficial records and papers, and numerous other works, including pamphlets both 
in the English and Spanish languages. We have also been rendered valuable 
assistance by the Mexican Consul aiid the Honorable Ex-Judge of the Supreme 
Tribunal of Sinaloa and Lower California, Carlos F. Galan, now practicing law in 
this city, and many other American and Spanish gentlemen, who have kindly ren- 
dered us every assistance in their power. 

We have endeavored to give only the facts as we find them, without unnecessary 
embellishments or fanciful description; the object being to make the contents of 
value for refei'ence as well as interesting to persons desiring to travel through or 
emigrate to those portions of Mexico to which we have given our attention, for 
the purpose of engaging in mining, agriculture, or stock-raising; or for persons 
desiring to make profitable investments in those four states. We have availed 
ourselves of every data that we could obtsiu, in order to give a complete descrip- 
tion, together with routes of travel and distances, cities and towns, the principal 
business men, the resources of Mexico, etc. We have also included, in a con- 
densed form, a general view of the Republic of Mexico, and the territory of Lower 
California, and the border states of Coahuila, New Leon, and Tamaulipas. In 
addition, we have referred to the most important land laws restricting American 
citizens from acquiring real estate in any of the border states. 

With the good, opportunities offered in those states, we have also attempted to 
point out the unfavorable features, in order to give an impartial work to the pub- 
lic. We have necessarily been compelled to condense much of our information, 
in order to biing the work within the reach of all, and at the same time give the 
most important data to the public. In some instances, we have found it exceed- 
ingly difficult to give as complete information as we desired, and we have, there- 
fore, been careful to state positively only those facts that could be verified. 

Respectfully submitted. 

The Acthor. 



OOITTENTS. 



Page 
Introduction 3 

Physical Features of the Republic op Mexico 7 

Political Divisions and Population of Mexico 7 

National and State Governments. 8 

Education, Colleges, Libraries, Museums, Fine Arts, 

Etc 10 

Resources of Mexico 13 

Lower California 16 

SONORA o , 17 

Boundaries and general description ; climate, soil and pro- 
ductions; Guaymas — location, harbor, streets, public 
buildings, plaza, principal business men, mint, distances, 
Sonera Railroad, population, importance of Guaymas, 

commerce, Alamos, Altar, stage connections 25 

Hermosillo — Cerro de la Campana, aqueduct, vineyards and 
orchards, public buildings, hotels, beautiful plaza, ladies 
celebrated for their beauty and fecundity, Paris fashions, 
business houses, haciendas, water and wood in abundance, 
factories, mints leased, stage lines, Sonora Railroad. ... 29 
Ures — capital, picturesque environs, alameda, elegant resi- 
dences, commercial houses, haciendas. Las Delicias, scor- 
pions 34 

Santa Cruz — beautiful valley, haciendas, Santa Cruz River, 

Spanish explorers, Tumacori, fertile lands 35 

Bacuachi — rich mineral region, climate, etc. ; Fronteras, 
Bapispe, Bapepito River, Arispe, hacienda of Las Deli- 
cias, Sonora River, Moctezuma, Sahuaripa, roads, etc. ; 

river Papigochi, Altar mines, La Libertad 36 

Rivers Yaqui and Mayo, course and length ; fertile lands, 
irrigation, high water, flour mills, oyster beds, settlements ; 
Mayo — narrow valley, settlements ; pearl divers, sharks, 

whales, mantua or blanket fish 40 

Presidio of Buena Vista, attempts to survey Yaqui lands, 
immense government grants, transportation on theYaqui, 

San Pedro de la Conquista 42 

Indians and presidios, character of the Yaqui Indians — Ve- 



Page 
lasco gives them a bad character ; Mayos ; Ceris, their 
character, location, pelican-skin dress ; Opatas, anecdote 
of the Opatas, Papajos ; " Pitaya-syrup " Apaches, war- 
like, personal appearance, habitations; comparative 
peace 44 

Discovery of Gold — a natural phenomenon ; gold every- 
where 48 

Mines of Sonora » . . 49 

Old mines abandoned, warning to American capitalists, 
" Gambucinos," ruined mines, Mr. Mowry's word of cau- 
tion, bona fide owners, no mine abandoned as long as it 
can be worked, owners alive to the value of good mines, 
no partnership desirable, the mines to buy, safest means 
to obtain a mine, an instance to the point, " Santa Ger- 
trudis," paying mines as a rule not for sale, exceptions, 
fair offer has to be made to purchase a valuable mine . . . 

Mining Districts — Location and description of mines of 

Sonora 51 

Alamos, location ; Minas Nuevas, Aduana, San Ildefonso 
de la Cieneguilla, San Francisco, Mulatos, San Xavier, 
San Antonio de la Huerta, Cieneguita and Haracarbo ; 
Babiacanora, Cucurpe, Santa Teresa de Jesus, Nacameri, 
and Batuco districts ; Rio Chico el Aguaje and Suaque 
Haygame, La Trinidad, Bacuachi Cajon, Barroyaca and 
Cerro Prieto, San Jos6 de Gracias, La Cananea, La 
Basura, San Perfecto, Quitovac, Alamo Muerto, Los 
Palomos, El Zone, Caborca, La Barranca, Bellas de 
Plata, Babiacora, San Juan Bautista, Nacosari, Churuni- 
babi, Tonbarachi, San Pedro, Virguillia ; concluding re- 
flections ; Santa Clara coal fields of Sonora ; quicksilver, 
graphite, marble, copper, lead, coal, iron, etc ........ . 52 

SiNALOA. ... 86 

Plains, valleys, mountains, rivers, and towns ; Fuerte and 
Sinaloa and distances by stage from Guaymas to Mazat- 

lan *.....•... c 86 

Mazatlan — coast, harbor, streets, wholesale and retail 
houses, description of houses, streets, government build- 
ings, composite architecture, public plaza, market place, 
principal trade, Mazatlan River, rich merchants, hacien- 
da of Piastla, principal business men of Mazatlan, hotels, 
trade with Boston, Philadelphia, New York, and San 

Francisco ; iron foundries , . « „ 92 

Rosario — town located in a ravine, Rosario River, excellent 
roads, distances, the great Tajo mine a source of wealth 
to the city 98 



Page 
Culiacan — capital of the state, productions of this locality, 
cotton factory, stage road, principal business houses, 

Presidio of Mazatlan, ladies of Culiacan 99 

Cosala — flower gardens, mining town, peculiar disease, prin- 
cipal business of the state, legend of Estacata mine, a 

mine lined with ebony, hacienda of La Labor 101 

Mining Districts and mines of Sinaloa , . , « . . . . 101 

Rosario, Xocihuistita, Flomosas, Panucho and Copala, and 
Cienega, Zaragossa and San Ignacio, Cosala, Guadalupe 
de los Reyes ; large tract of land ; Grolconda gold mine 

of Cosala , 102 

Chihuahua Ill 

General description, rivers, deserts, and grazing districts ; 

soil and productions, and grazing ; climate Ill 

Chihuahua — capital, its origin, city well laid out, Plaza 
Mayor, famous cathedral, Convent of San Francisco, 
aqueduct, mint, trade, patriot Hidalgo, pecuhar duties 

abolished 115 

Las Casas Grandes and its legend, origin of the name of 
Mexico, ruins of Aztec Greatness, Rio Grande region. El 
Paso del Norte, its origin ; Rio Grande River, wine mak- 
ing, appearance of the town, dangerous ford, Laredo, 

Mexican Central Railroad , 116 

Mining Districts and mines of Chihuahua 120 

General description ; Urique, Chinapas, Zapuri, Pinos Altos, 
Jesus Maria, and San Jos^ districts ; Parral, Batopilas, 
Morellos, Santa Eulalia, Jesus Maria again, Guazapares, 

Guadalupe y Calvo, El Carmen mine 121 

DURANGO . , , , 130 

Boundaries and physical features, mountains, grazing dis- 
tricts, and desert lands 130 

City op Durango . 132 

Situated in a plain, streets pretty and regular. Plaza Mayor, 
pubhc buildings, trade, " Cerro de Mercado," or Moun- 
tain of Iron, principal business firms 132 

Mining Districts of Durango , = . . . . 133 

General record of the mining districts : Guarisamey, San 
Dimas, Gavilanes, Toyaltita, Canelas, Siauori, Bacis, 
Tamasula, Ventailas, San Andres, Cuencame, Yerba 

Buena, Mapimi, etc 133 

Iron Mines of Durango ^.,, 137 

Cost of steel rails imported from England, manufacturing in 
Durango practicable, communication, Cerro de Mercado, 
a disputed point settled, not an aerolite, cost of iron in 
England and imported to Mexico, dimensions of the " iron 



6 

Page 
mountain," contents enormous, its value ; curious caves 

of Durango 138 

COAHUILA 143 

NuEvo Leon 143 

Tamaulipas 144 

Arts and Manufactures 144 

Imports and exports, competition principally with Eng- 
land, balance of trade in favor of Mexico, exports to 
England and United States nearly equal ; duties, 
" Yankee wiring " and smuggling, trade with Mexico — 
difficulties, opposition; "fixing'' the custom-house offi- 
cers, how to secure the trade 146 

Trade of San Francisco with Mexico and Central 

America 156 

Traveling in Mexico, brigands, a case in point, the sohtary 

horseman, revolutions by merchants, annexation 157 

Appendix i 

Railroads and steamship lines i 

Restrictive land laws of Spain and Mexico against Ameri- 
can citizens holding real estate in any portion of the 
bordei* states, and the remedy ; an important warning, 
restrictive laws should be repealed, titles worthless, a 
treaty should be entered into, manner of acquiring real 
estate in Mexico, important queries, manner of denounc- 
ing public lands iii 



ENERAL JESCRIPTION 



pENERAL P 



REPUBLIC of MEXICO. 



Physical Features. 

In a work entitled "Adventures in Mexico," the author, 
Mr. Ruxton, says of the physical features of Mexico, that 
" a glance at the physical geography of Mexico will show 
that the extensive and fertile lands of the central regions are 
isolated, and, as it were, cut off from communication with 
the coast by their position on the ridge of the Cordilleras, 
and the insurmountable obstacles to a practicable traffic pre- 
sented by the escarpments of the terraces, the steps, as it 
were, from the elevated table lands to the maritime districts 
and the tropical regions of the interior. The country is also 
destitute of navigable rivers. (He seems to have lived before 
the age of railways). Its eastern coast is swept at certain 
seasons by fearful tempests, and presents not one sheltering 
harbor or secure roadstead. The tropical region is subject 
to fatal malaria, and is almost excluded from a settlement of 
white population; and, consequently, its natural riches are 
almost entirely neglected. The vast table land which 
stretches along the ridge of the Cordilleras of Anahuac, 
although possessing tracts of great fertility, is not in itself 
the rich and productive region it is generally represented to 
be. The want of fuel and water must always prevent its 
being otherwise than thinly populated." 

Political Divisions and Population. 

The present population of the republic, as near as can be 
estimated, from the work of Antonio Garcia Cubas, of the 
City of Mexico, is somewhere in the neighborhood of 



8 

9,525,000, in round numbers, taking into account an increase 
since 1876: divided among the different states, as follows : 

Sonora 125,000 Oaxaca 680,000 

Coahuila _ . . . 115,000 Chiapas 200,000 

Chihuahua 190,000 Durango 185,000 

New Leon 200,000 Zacatecas 420,000 

Tamaulipas 180,000 Aguas Calientes. . . 100,000 

Vera Cruz 550,000 San Luis Potosi 555,000 

Tobasco 100,000 Guanajuato 900,000 

Campeachy 95,000 Queretaro 170,000 

Yucatan 350,000 Hidalgo 430,000 

Siualoa 200,000 Mexico 750,000 

Jahsco 980,000 Morelos 150,000 

Colima 75,000 Puebla 750,000 

Michoacan 620,000 Tlaxcala 130,000 

Guerrero 350,000 . 

Total. 9,500,000 

With the territory of Lower California, which Antonio 
Garcia Cubas, in his geography of Mexico, places at 23,195, 
in 1874, the population of the whole republic may be esti- 
mated at about 9,525,000, allowing an increase in Lower 
CaHfornia, up to 1880, or about six years, of about 2,000 
more. 

National and State Governments. 

The government of the Republic of Mexico is divided 
into three branches, viz.. Executive, Legislative, and Judi- 
cial; President, (and Cabinet, Congress, and Supreme and 
District Courts.) 

The Congress of the confederation is divided into two 
branches, viz. : a Chamber of Deputies and that of Senators. 
The deputies are chosen by the majority of qualified citi- 
zens to vote in each state and territory — one for every 
40,000 inhabitants, or for a fraction not less than 20,000. It 
is also requisite to have arrived at the age of 25 years, and 
to have enjoyed the ample exercise of citizenship, in order 
to hold this ofiice. The Chamber of Deputies is wholly re- 
newed every two years, and no deputy shall hold an office 
of trust or emolument in state or nation, while serving in the 
National Congress, according to the constitutional compact 
or Constitution. Two Senators are elected in each state by 
the majority; two in the federal district, which includes 
the City of Mexico, and an equal number in each of the 



9 

states are elected in turn, by the Senate, the Supreme Court, 
and the Chamber of Deputies of the states respectively. 
The Senate of the republic decides the election of such as 
do not obtain the votes of all three, but such as have been 
voted for by some one of them. The age of eligibility is 
30 years, and the aspirant must be in the full exercise of the 
rights of citizenship. Also, it is necessarj^ to have held some 
office of high trust equal to that of Superior Chief of the 
Treasury. One-third of this chamber is renewed every two 
years. In each chamber a quorum is found by one more 
than half its members. Senators, during the term of their 
office, shall hold no other positions of trust in the republic, 
at the same time. To be ehgible to the office of President, 
it is necessary to be a native citizen, 35 years of age, and a 
resident. 

The executive power of the republic is vested in a Pres- 
ident and four secretaries chosen by himself: Secretaries 
of the Interior and Foreign Relations, Justice and Ecclesi- 
astical Aftairs, Treasury, War and Marine Concernments. 
These Secretaries must be native citizens. The President 
is chosen for four years. 

The judicial power of the republic resides in a Supreme 
Court, three Circuit Courts, and those of the districts. 

The Supreme Court is divided into three halls, comprising 
in all eleven ministers of justice and one fiscal. Besides 
those for civil and criminal trials of the first instance, there 
are Judges and Constitutional Alcaldes. To be eligible to the 
office of Supreme Judge it is necessary to be learned in the 
law, a native citizen, and approved by the national legisla- 
ture. The state government is composed of a Governor, Leg- 
islature, and Judiciary. The state judiciary are appointed 
by their respective governors and confirmed by their legis- 
latures. The interior government of the territories resides 
in a Political Chief dependent on the general government of 
the nation, in a deputation elected by the citizens thereof, 
and also in the inferior courts necessary for the administra- 
tion of justice. And for this purpose they are divided into 
districts, counties, "departments" or partidos, which are 
under the charge of prefects or sub-prefects, appointed by 
the governors. This constitutes the state judiciary. The 
Legislative Branch consists of a Chamber of Deputies and 
Senators, elected by the people. The Governor is elected by 
the people, but he can he deposed by the general govern- 
ment, with secretaries of the same character as the general 
government. Every Mexican by birth or naturalization and 



10" 

21 years of age is a citizen of the Mexican Republic, unless 
disqualified for the commission of some crime. Personal se- 
curities are granted by the Constitution the same as in the 
United States. 

The national religion is Roman Catholic under the Consti- 
tution. The clergy have special legislation, the army its 
code called the " ordenanza." The number of officers of the 
general government amounts to 2,990; pensioners, 940; the 
number of ecclesiastics, 3,290. The annual revenue of the 
clergy from various taxation amounts to over $10,000,000. 
The convents of monks, 140; convents of nuns, 60; colleges 
of the Propaganda Fide, 8; while the monasteries contain 
1,140 monks, 1,540 professed nuns, 740 girls, and 880 female 
servants. Mexico, the capital of the republic, has about 
325,000 population. 

The republic was declared independent February 24th, 
1821, estabhshed as an empire under Iturbide in 1822, and 
proclaimed a republic December 2nd, 1822, by Santa Ana. 
Iturbide abdicated March 20th, 1823. The republic con- 
tains 27 states, 1 territory, and 1 federal district. The pres- 
ent Constitution was adopted February 5th, 1857. 

£lducation. 

At one time during the early period of the republic about 
one-half of the population of Mexico could neither read nor 
write. The provisions for education are now somewhat ex- 
tensive. Id the city of Guadalajara, in the state of Jalisco, 
there are two scientific and literary academies, that of the 
Sociedad Filvocatrica and that of Falangede Estudio. The 
expenses of pubhc instruction are commonly borne by the 
state governments and municipalities besides in many of the 
considerable towns. In the City of Mexico there are 129 
public establishments of learning, with about 8,000 pupils of 
both sexes. The establishments dedicated to secondary ed- 
ucation in the republic consist of conciliary seminaries, sup- 
ported and directed hj the clergy. The colleges and insti- 
tutes of learning in the several states are supported by do- 
nation funds settled upon them and by direct appropriations, 
and the national colleges also in the same manner. Of 
that class there are 10 in the capitals of the bishoprics, and 
of the latter class there are six in the city of Mexico — name- 
ly, San Ildefonso, San Gregorio, San Juan de Letran, the 
School of Medicine, the College of Mining, and the Military 
College; with three public libraries — namely, that of the 



11 

Cathedral with 13,000 volumes and manuscripts, that of the 
University with about 3,000 volumes, that of San Gregorio 
with over 11,000, and that of San Juan de Letran with about 
11,000 volumes. 

The principle of obligatory education is now in force in 
the greater part of the states of the republic, penalties hav- 
ing been decreed for those who contravene the law, and re- 
wards for those who voluntarily observe the same. Primary 
instruction in the schools of the republic consists of the fol- 
lowing branches: Reading, writing, Spanish grammar, arith- 
metic, tables of weights and measures, morality, and good 
manners; and moreover, in the girls' schools, needlework 
and other useful labors. In some of the states the study of 
geography, national history, and drawing are also obligatory; 
whilst, in the schools that are not supported by the govern- 
ment, a knowledge of algebra and geometry is taught, 
with the elements of general and natural history, ornamental 
and lineal drawing, and the French language. The number 
of primary schools in the whole of the republic reaches 
8,103. Of the number referred to, according to the work of 
Senor Diaz Covarrubias, 603 are supported by the state gov- 
ernments, 5,240 by the municipal authorities, 378 by private 
corporations or individuals, 117 by the Catholic clergy, be- 
sides 1,581 private establishments that are not gratuitous, 
and 184 not classified. These schools are attended by schol- 
ars of both sexes. Secondary instruction, as well as profes- 
sional education, are under the charge of the state, with 
subjection to the programmes established by the law, which 
prescribes as a mandate the liberty of education and profes- 
sions. 

In the republic there are 105 establishments of secondary 
and professional instruction. These embrace preparatory 
schools, civil colleges of jurisprudence, schools of medicine 
and pharmacy, (no one can practice medicine or keep a drug- 
store without a diploma from the government) schools for en- 
gineers, naval schools, commercial schools, academies of arts 
and sciences, agricultural schools, academies of fine arts, con- 
servatories of music and oratory, military colleges, concilia- 
tory seminaries supported by the Catholic clergy, blind school, 
deaf and dumb school, and secondary schools for girls. In 
these latter, mathematics, cosmography, geography, domestic 
medicine, history and chronology, book-keeping, domestic 
economy, and duties of women in society, natural, figured, 
and ornamented drawing, manual labors, horticulture and 
gardening, music, the French and Italian languages — cer- 



12 

tainly, a young lady who graduates in these schools may bo 
said to be accomplished, and our female seminaries might 
find some suggestions in a finished education. The whole 
number of educational establishments is 8,208, with 364,809 
pupils. Besides these are eight model schools; 285,509 
males and 79,300 females receive instruction, and this does 
not include the education under private tutors. There are 
20 public libraries in the state, containing, in the whole, 
236,000 volumes; and private libraries, containing from 1,000 
to 8,000 works, are innumerable; and there are some with 
as many as 20,000, and collections of manuscripts and books 
upon history and travels, literature, law, biography, elo- 
quence, encyclopedias, classic authors, mathematics, phys- 
ical sciences, and antiquities, relating to America, Asia, 
Egypt and Nubia. 

The most remarkable museums of the Republic are 
those of antiquities in Mexico, Campeche, Puebla and 
Merida; those of paintings in Mexico, Oaxaca and Puebla; 
those of natural history in Guadalajara and Mexico. The Na- 
tional Museum of Mexico, to which is annexed that of 
Natural History, contains a rich collection of Mexican antiq- 
uities, hieroglyphics, manuscripts, arms, utensils, idols, 
jewels, and every species of ornaments. 

The Museum of Natural History at the Mining College, 
now the School of Engineers, is composed of two cabinets. 
In the first, there is a well classified collection of geological 
specimens, and another of zoology, which contains a large 
assortment. 

In the second, are found two collections of minerals from 
Europe and Mexico, arranged according to the chemical 
mineralogical system of Bergelius. 

The Academy of San Carlos, named in honor of Carlos the 
Third, of Spain, is one of the most notable institutions of 
the City of Mexico. It contains several galleries, where nu- 
merous original and valuable old Spanish and Italian paint- 
ings are to be seen. Among others, are works of Leonardo 
de Vinci, Murillo, Vernet, Coglietti, Canova, Van Dyck, Cor- 
tona, Perugiuo, Ingres, Decaen, Reni Marko, and other 
works of Podesti and Silvagni, and several of the Flemish 
and Dutch schools. In the other saloons are to be seen the 
paintings of some of the most proficient students of the 
Academy; also, rasmy remarkable paintings of ancient 
Mexican artists, as Cobreza, Aguilero, the Juarez family, 
Ybarra , A.rteaga, Vallejo, Echave, and others. 

In the republic there exist 73 institutions dedicated to 



13 

the cultivation of arts aud sciences, of which 29 are scien- 
tific, 21 literary, 20 artistical, and three of a mixed char- 
acter. 

Resources of Mexico. 

There are now being established, in the greater part of the 
states of Mexico, cotton, woolen, silk, earthenware, glass, 
and paper factories, which will add to her present prosper- 
ity. If all this great territory were populated, even in pro- 
portion to Guanajato and its territory, the census of the 
republic would reach 58,000,000 to 60,000,000, instead of 
only 9,000,000 to 10,000,000. This scarcity of population 
is the one great cause of the undevelopment of the vast 
agricultural resources of Mexico; and when they are fully 
developed, they will constitute an element of enormous 
wealth. 

Within the territory of the republic, there are more than 
5700 haciendas, (landed estates) and 13,800 farms, (ranchos) 
and not a few other locations, of immense extent. The 
value assigned to landed property, based simply on its valu- 
ation for taxes, is 8161,397,311. The real value may be said 
to be double that amount, or about $323,000,000. The 
maize which is grown all over the territory, the wheat in 
the upper table-lands, the rice in the warm and damp sec- 
tions, the coffee, vanilla, tobaoco, sugar, and cotton in the 
hot countries, and many other articles, among which may be 
mentioned the "agave Mexicano," with its abundant 
returns, constitute the principal branches of national agri- 
culture, and the annual products may be safely estimated at 
$100,000,000. If colonies were settled in this vast territory, 
employing their activity and intelligence in making such 
rich and extensive lands productive, under the influence of 
the varieties of climate, the benefits derived to Mexico are 
almost incalculable. 

The rich and varied mineral productions of the republic 
have placed its mines in the niche of fame; and were it not 
for the scarcity of population before mentioned, they would 
produce a revenue that has never been dreamed of, in the 
imaginations of their Spanish conquerors. 

The mines of Guanajato, which have been the most 
worked, and yielded enormously, still present immense 
wealth, with no signs of their being exhausted. The soil of 
Guerrero has been pronounced, by a Spanish mineralogist 
as one extensive crust of silver and gold. This seems like 
exaggeration, yet it has in a measure proved to be true in 



i4 

the immense deposits there found. In Sinaloa the waters 
have submerged rich treasures, among others the famous 
mine of La Estacata. 

The states of Zacatecas, Sonora, Chihuahua, Darango, Sau 
Luis Potosi, Hidalgo, Mexico, and Michoacan contain with- 
in their mountain ranges veins of gold and silver in ineX' 
haustible riches. Although the best portion of the mineral 
district lies in the northern states of the republic, yet 
throughout its whole territory metaliferous deposits are 
found. Silver and gold are mostly worked, while the other 
metals and mineral substances, such as copper, iron, zinc, 
lead, magistral, antimony, arseni'c, cobalt, amianthus, and 
copperas are almost neglected. The mountain of Popocata- 
petl is said to be one vast pile of sulphur. Salt mines are 
found at Peiion Blanco, in San Luis Potosi, Tamaulipas, 
south of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, and in the islands of 
the Gulf of Cahfornia. The Lake of Texcoco and its adja- 
cent lands possess an extensive supply of carbonate of soda. 
In every state there exist quarries of white and colored mar- 
l V, The alabaster of Tecali, in the state of Puebla, has at- 
tra^^i' 1 great attention, and the extensive coal-fields, platina, 
and qui'Sisilver mines all add to the wealth of this great ter- 
ritory. Precious stones are not unknown; the opal with as 
vr.ried and beautiful hues as those of Hungary, the turquoise, 
garnet, topaz, agate, and amethyst besides, are found exten- 
sively in many places. Building stone of a great variety 
is plentiful, from which magnificent structures may be built. 
Aside from the amount of ores that are worked outside of 
the republic on account of the law permitting free exporta- 
tion of mineral ores, the annual coinage in gold, silver, and 
copper is on an average of 120,500,000, and the whole 
amount of coinage since the establishment of the mints up 
to 1875 being $3,001,237,281.62. In the colonial period 
(1537 to 1821): Silver, $2,082,260,657.44; gold, $68,778,- 
411; copper, $542,893.37— total, $2,151,581,961.81. Since 
the independence, or establishment of the republic (1822 to 
1875): Silver, $797,055,080.71; gold, $47,327,383.11; cop- 
per, $5,272,855.93 — total, $849,655,319.84. Total silver, 
$2,879,315,738.21; gold, $116,105,794.11; copper, $5,815,- 
740.30. Grand total, $3,001,237,281.62. 

Within the last five years, since the investment of addition- 
al foreign capital, the amount additional, on the average of 
twenty and one-half millions a year as the lowest estimate, 
would reach $102,500,000 more, which would make the 
sumtoml in 1880, $3,103,737,281.62 as the amount coined 
by the republic of Mexico. 



15 

To show the increase of production, from the records of 
the mints, we herewith give the amount coined up to 1865, 
to compare -with the amount coined in 1875, from official 
records, the first being taken from "El Minero Mexicano" of 
December 2ud, 1880, and the second or latter from Cubas' 
valuable work, which he claims to have obtained from the 
records at the mints. 

Amount of Money Coined in the Republic of Mexico 
from 1772 to 1865. 



In the Mints of 


Silver. 


Gold. 


Total. 


Mexico 

Uatorce 

Chihuahua 

Guliacan , 


$2,163,836,764 

1,321,545 

15,626,400 

12,795,506 

35,294,581 

28,288,333 

164,591,216 

48,745,584 

910,927 

204,234,941 

2,063,958 

1,551,249 

959,116 


177,753,472 

1,286,095 

4,735,280 

3,139,889 

754,487 

16,094,529 

"236,120 

550,008 

2,311,104 

203,534 


$2,241,590,237 
1,321,545 
16,912,495 
17,630,791 
38,434,470 
29,042,820 
179,685,74'-- 
48,74b,5P^ 

1,147 
204,7; .-,949 
4,375,062 
1,551,249 
1,162,650 


Durango 

Guadalajara 

Guanajuato 

San Luis Potosi 

Oaxaca 

Zacatecas 

Guadalupe y Calvo 

Sombrerete 

Tlalpam 


1865.— Total 


$2,680,220,119 


$106,064,534 


$2,786,284,654 



1875 — Total amount coined from 1772. 
1865— " " deducted 



^3,001, 237,281 62 
2,786,284,654 00 



Increase in 10 years 

(or about $21,496,262.76 cents annually.) 



$214,952,627 62 



The average annual production of the mines of Sonora, 
from 1835 to 1842, was given by Francisco Velasco at a 
rough estimate of $1,500,000 annually, or $10,500,000 during 
the period of seven j^ears. In 1828, Don Juan M. Riesago 
estimated the annual production at $2,000,000. 

The laws originally demanded that all bullion should be 
brought to Mexico to be coined, and the cost of carrying 
was so great that the rich mines in these border States be- 
came almost neglected by capitalists, and the poorer ones 
nearest to Mexico City were mostly worked. This resulted 
in the smuggling of bullion out of the mines in the northern 
states of the republic, and no record could be kept at the 
mints, of those mines — in fact, there are no reliable records 
that give any account of the exports of bullion either f r >m 
Mazatlan or Guaymas, although some records exist covering 



16 

the last few years; while it is well known that the mines in 
those States have been extensively worked in certain locali- 
ties for over a century. 

Lower California. 

This embraces a territory or peninsula, washed on its 
western shores by the Pacific Ocean, and east by the Gulf 
of California. Its area is over 60,000 square miles. Its 
capital is La Paz, which is the principal town. The 
whole of the center is traversed by a volcanic range of 
mountains of the Sierra Nevada. It is bounded on the 
north by California and north-east by the Colorado River, di- 
viding it from Sonora. 

The soil is generally not productive, though, at the base 
of the mountains and in small valleys, where the decompo- 
sition of lava has been going on for ages, it possesses an in- 
credible fecundity. The formation of the whole State is 
volcanic, and the coast subject to storms. The scarcity of 
rivers bars much of its prosperity. 

The productions are maize, manioc, wheat, beans, etc. ; 
grapes, from which wine of a very rich flavor is produced; 
oranges, limes, lemons, citrons, prunes, dates, figs, pine- 
apples, bananas, plantains, and other tropical fruits; stock of 
various kinds graze in the valleys, consisting of horses, 
sheep, cattle, goats and hogs. Fish, in its waters, abound 
to a great extent, such as halibut, sahnon, turbot, skate, 
pilchard, large oysters, thornback, mackerel, cod, lobsters, 
etc., and pearl oysters. 

The pearl fishery is much pursued at La Paz. In this 
region, a gold mine has been worked to some extent. 
There are about 30 towns in the state, six bays on the east 
coast and ten on the west, twelve islands in the gulf, and 
eight west of the coast. 

The territory of Lower Cafifornia is divided into eight 
municipalities — La Paz, San Jose de Comondu, Mulege, 
Santo Tomas, San Antonio, Todos Santos, Santiago, San Josd 
del Cabo. Population, 25,000. 

La Paz, the capital, has about 3,000 inhabitants 

This territory is about to be colonized, as we learn from 
the " Diario Official ' that a contract has been signed by 
the Acting Secretary of Public Works, in virtue whereof, 
Messrs. J. Kelly & Co., of Mazat'an, engage themselves to 
colonize 86 000 hectares of pubfic lauds in Lower Cali- 
fornia. 



SONOKA. 



CHAPTER I, 
Boundaries and General Description. 

The name of Sonora is derived from "Sonot," a Papajo 
Indian name, which means ''Seuora," an appellation bestow- 
ed b}^ the Spanish conquerors upon an Indian woman who 
treated them with great hospitality, when they visited the 
settlements of that tribe. The Indians, in attempting to 
imitate the Spaniards, pronounced the word "Sonora." 

The State comprises nine districts: Hermosillo, at which 
is located the capital; Ures, the former capital; Guaymas, 
Alamos, Magdalena, Altar, Oposura or Moctezuma and 
Sahuaripa. The state originally extended its boundaries 
from the river " de las Canas " on the south, to the river 
Gila on the north. The southern boundary extended then 
from the state of Jalisco on the south to Arizona, and in- 
cluded a part of the same. Yuma, with Tucson and other 
towns and ranchos south of the river Gila, were originally 
included in the state. The state was then 1,395 miles in 
length, but in 1830 it was divided, and the south-eastern 
boundary fixed 54 miles south of the city of Alamos, on the 
border of the Mesquite rancho. This constituted the di- 
viding line between the states of Sonora and Sinaloa; the 
distance from the former capital, Ures, to the southern 
boundary being 354 miles. The northern boundary ex- 
tended to the Gila River, until the boundary line between the 
United States and Mexico was fixed south of the same river. 

The length of the state is about 700 miles. Mean breadth 
from the state of Chihuahua on the east to the Gulf of Cal- 
ifornia on the west is about 300 miles. The exact measure- 
ment is not known, as the state has never been completely 
surveyed. The most narrow breadth between Mesquite and 
Alamos is about 120 miles. The area in square miles is 
about 123,466. 

The general direction of the state is from north-west to 
2 



18 

south-east, along the Gulf of California. Its whole western 
boundary, from the mouth of the river Colorado on the north, 
extends along the coast south-east to Sinaloa. It is bounded 
on the north by Arizona and New Mexico. Along the coast 
the surface is diversified by valleys, plains, and foot-hills. 
Some of the plains are 30 to 40 miles, some reaching to 90 
miles, in extent. In the neighborhood of the Sierra Madre 
mountains it is lofty and broken. The surface may be said 
to possess three distinct features outside of the mountainous 
district. First, dry plains; second, elevated plateaus, or ta- 
ble lands; and third, agricultural valleys, or bottom lands. 
The dry plains are located in the north-western part of the 
state, between the head-waters of the Gulf of California, 
and the valley of Santa Cruz, bordering upon Arizona in the 
north. The table lands lie in the north-eastern part of the 
state, extending from the Santa Cruz valley and the source 
of the Bapetito River, the main branch of the Yaqui on the 
west, to the base of the Sierra Madre mountains, which ex- 
tend along the boundary line between the state and Chi- 
huahua. 

From Guaymas to the northern border line, the surface is 
generally level, diversified here and there by isolated moun- 
tains, conical or table-topped, which give grandeur to the 
landscape, without occupying much arable area. The soil 
is of great depth and richness, resembling in many locali- 
ties the famous hrazos of Texas, but happily exempt from 
the malarias of the latter. . 

In the interior, plains and valleys of immense extent are 
crossed by the traveler, in some instances 200 miles in 
length. The largest river of the state is the Yaqui, or 
Buenavista, which is only navigable for flat-boats in high 
water. The river Mayo may also be mentioned. Both of 
these rivers empty into the Gulf of California. The source 
of each is in the copious springs of the Sierra Madre, and 
the}^ are never dry in the seasons of most drought. 

The river Sonora or Arispe passes through Ures and Her- 
mosillo, and loses its waters in the sandy plains of Siete Cer- 
ritos, about 21 miles west of Hermosillo. The Horcasitas, 
or Eayon, a small stream, joins the Sonora about five miles 
east of Hermosillo. The same stream is also called Opodepe 
and Cucurpe. The Oposura, Aribechi, Santa Cruz, San 
Jose de Pimas, Tecoripa, Altar, and Caborca, are mere 
creeks^ fordable when their waters are high, and almost en- 
tirely disappear in dry seasons, some of them entirely sink- 
ing in the sands. The Colorado River on the north-west ex- 



19 

tends along but a small part of the boundary. There are 
many sand-plains along the coast, as well as large sterile 
tracts in the interior, and only on the banks of the streams 
or river bottoms are the lands capable of irrigation. The 
principal sand-plain extends from the mouth of the Colorado 
to the Salinas Bay near port La Libertad. 

The only port suitable for commerce is that of Guaymas, 
to which we will call particular attention hereafter. Some 
trade is also done at La Libertad. In Santa Cruz de Mayo, 
of the department of Alamos, in the southern part of the 
state, there is a small bay or roadstead called the port of 
Santa Cruz. 

That portion lying between Mesquite on the south along 
the base of the Sierra Madre, extending north to the 
ancient capital city Arispe, is sterile in places, but has never 
been completely explored by surveying or civil engineers, 
while the region further north is, in places, very fertile. 
This territory will demand a more particular description 
hereafter. The most valuable agricultural lauds are situated 
on the banks of the rivers and creeks, or river bottoms. 
Irrigation is necessary for almost the entire territory, either 
natural or artificial. The yield in this case is vastly greater 
than is produced in countries where the sole dependence is 
rain. The dry plains are generally level, with a hard sur- 
face, and adapted for purposes of wagon-roads and railroads. 
Experience has shown that artesian well-water may be ob- 
tained. The arid spots cannot be cultivated. The table- 
lands are covered with a short and luxuriant grass, upon 
which immense herds of cattle have been and may still be 
raised. 

We herewith give the following from the pen of an able 
Spanish writer, Velasco, who impartially describes the state, 
in his valuable work on Sonora, which has been translated 
by Mr. :N"ye. Page 14: 

" The most thickly settled places are upon the banks of 
the rivers and creeks, while at the interior settlements be- 
tween Alamos and Hermosillo there is so great a scarcity of 
water on the roads that the traveler is compelled to carry a 
supply with him. It is not uncommon to travel eight or 
even sixteen leagues, (about three miles to the league) with- 
out finding a stream or a place where water may be procured 
by digging. On that part of the coast called Tiburou, to the 
west of Hermosillo, the distance between wateriug-places is 
still greater, and the supply more scanty, and on the old road 
of Cieneguilla, which is from fifty to sixty leagues in length, 



20 

there are but three watering-places, including one well. On 
the road from Hermosillo to the port of Guaymas, in the 
dry season, no water is to be had for thirty-six leagues, ex- 
cept at La Posa and La Cieneguilla, and it is occasionally so 
scarce at these places that foot passengers perish from thirst. 
The coast is so dry that the raucheros have sunk wells in 
different parts of it, thirty and forty yards in depth, without 
finding moisture. The region between Arispe and the Gila, 
however, is well watered by numerous creeks, and abounds 
in pools and swamps, and the mountains are well supplied 
with water, and timber of various kinds, such as cedar, pine, 
evergreen oak, ebony, etc.; well stocked with deer and 
birds, and containing medicinal herbs of marvelous efficacy, 
one of which, called ' colorada,' is used by the Apaches for 
the treatment of wounds. The valleys are expansive and 
beautiful, abundantly watered, and clothed in verdure dur- 
ing the entire year; and nature has lavished her vegetable 
and mineral wealth upon these frontier regions with so prod- 
igal a hand that they may well be called the Paradise of 
Sonora. The inscrutable decree of the Almighty has be- 
stowed them upon savages, incapable of appreciating or en- 
joying his munificent gift." 

Thus we see the region north-east and bordering upon the 
State of Chihuahua, outside of the valleys of the Yaqui and 
Mayo rivers, is the best portion of the state, and includes 
the valleys and foot-hills of the Sierra Madre. In this re- 
gion there are now many cattle-ranches of large extent, that 
may be purchased at very low rates, we should judge, tak- 
ing our data from the prices prevailing in Sonora. The 
mineral belt also extends through this region, including 
valuable mines of gold and silver, galena and coal, to which 
we will give a more extensive description hereafter, under 
the title of " Mining Districts and Mines." 



CHAPTER n. 
1. Climate. 



The climate is varied in the mountain region from ex- 
treme heat to the freezing point. In the winter season, the 
cold weather commences in the latter part of October, and 
reaches the lowest degree, or freezing point, from ISTovem- 



21 """'■ "" ^ 

ber to March. Ice sometimes appears in October, but not 
usually till November or December. In the settlements 
nearest the mountains the frosts set in earlier than in the 
interior. In the latter region, three or four years often pass 
without any frost, especially near the coast. This is true of 
Hermosillo, Bueua Vista, Alamos, and in the valleys of the 
rivers Yaqui and Mayo. The warm season commences in 
May, and the heat becomes extreme during the months of 
June, July, and August. 

At Hermosillo, Guaymas, Ures, Buena Vista, and San 
Antonio de la Huerta, the mercury reaches above one hun- 
dred degrees during the months last mentioned. In Sep- 
tember refreshing rains fall, and continue during the winter 
season. A hot wind occasionally visits Hermosillo during 
the months of June, July, and August, which blows from 
eleven in the morning till four in the afternoon, during 
which hours business practically ceases. The inhabitants 
seek shelter in their houses, and no one ventures forth un- 
less driven by necessity. These hot winds are a terror to 
the Sonorians, and they remember, with some degree of ap- 
prehension, a time in which the wind scorched the skin like 
the heat of a furnace, and drove the hares, deer, coyotes, 
and other wild animals to the settlements for refuge, while 
plants and trees were literally scorched out at the root. 
This ^^ calientepedo," or hot wind, also springs upon Guay- 
mas suddenly sometimes, and blows for twenty-four hours 
without intermission. On reaching the coast it meets the 
damp and cooler atmosphere, and by the time it passes 
about three miles over the gulf, its heat is absorbed, and it 
vanishes. Water may be kept cool, however, in jars, even 
during the prevalence of this wind. In the beginning of 
June the poorer classes abandon the interior of their adobe 
houses, and sleep in the corridors or court-yards. Others 
often sleep in the streets before their doors, for the heat is 
insufferable within their houses. 

At Hermosillo and some other towns a southern breeze 
springs up about eight o'clock, and continues during the 
night, making the attempt to sleep more bearable ; but, if 
the breeze fails to put in an appearance, the sleepy god is 
courted in vain. At Arispe, Bacuachi, and Frontreras, the 
winter lasts longer than the summer ; and at Santa Cruz, 
near the northern boundary of the state, the altitude of the 
surrounding mountains is such, that the temperature varies 
from the cool and pleasant to the freezing point. Serious 
epidemics are unknown; and at Hermosillo the only dis- 



22 

eases that prevail, and that to a hmited extent, are phthisis 
and diarrhea. On the rivers Oposura and Sahuaripa, 
"goitre," or swelled neck, appears on the necks, of men, 
but mostly on the women. The disease is called ^^buche" 
by the Spaniards. Intermittent fevers often prevail, prob- 
ably caused by the immoderate use of fruit, in the interior; 
but they are of short continuance. We may justly aflfirm 
that the climate is, on the whole, salubrious, and is really 
mors healthy than that of the adjoining States, or the cen- 
tral part of the republic. The atmosphere is pure and dry, 
entirely free from malaria, with but one exception, in the 
neighborhood of Santa Cruz, where the adjacent swamps 
sometimes induce fever. The interior of the State is en- 
tirely free from noxious vapors. The air is pure and healthy, 
sweeping over the plains and through valleys from the sier- 
ras and the sea. 

In Guaymas, Matape, Horcositas, Arispe, and Altar, per- 
sons are found who have attained to ages ranging over a 
century. The average duration of life, with the observance 
of prudence and temperance, ranges from seventy to eighty 
years, says Velasco. " Owing to the practice of vaccination, 
small-pox rarely makes its appearance. Venereal diseases 
are not common, except in the neighborhood of the rivers 
Yaqui and Mayo, and on the coast. Catarrhs frequently ap- 
pear in a mild form during the changes of the seasons. 
One may sleep in the open air with perfect impunity, and 
experience no inconvenience. The diseases that aft'ect chil- 
dren are diarrhea, intermittent fevers, vomiting, ophthalmia, 
eruptions of the face, and other difficulties that accompany 
teething. These diseases, owing to the lack of medical 
skill, produce a mortality among children that carries oft' 
one-fourth from birth up to the period of teething, annually. 
After this critical period, good health generally attends them 
to the age of puberty." 

2. Soil and Productions. 

The soil along the coast, from the valley or delta of the 
Colorado to the Altar or Magdalena River, is mostly unfit 
for productions of any kind, and the land south of the Altar 
River is used for grazing purposes, from the port of La Lib- 
ertad on the coast, in places where the sand plains are not 
prevalent, to the Yaqui River. The exceptions are on the 
Altar or Magdalena Creek or river and its branch the San 
Ignacio, and the river Sonora. "Wherever no streams exist, 



23 

it may be safely said the soil cannot be cultivated. Very 
good grazing lands are found occasionally, from La Libertad 
to Guaymas or in its neighborhood. On the San Ignacio, 
sweet and sour oranges, lemons, citrons, limes, pomegranates, 
and peaches are raised. The territory between the San Igna- 
cio and the river Altar, produces cotton of excellent quality. 
Several large plantations are in this vicinity, one of which is 
devoted to the raising of this valuable production. Cotton- 
mills are here erectecl, owned by the Ortizes of Hermosillo. 
Also the "guava" is cultivated, and the plantain-tree at- 
tains a large size, bearing a heavy burden of fruit. 

In and around the territory of Hermosillo large vineyards 
are located, from which considerable quantities of '■'■ agna- 
diente " or brandy and wine are produced. Wheat is also 
grown in this locality, with beans, lentils. Chili peppers, 
garlic, onions, and sweet potatoes. The fruits are abundant, 
and the grape, muskmelons, and watermelons, are raised oi 
excellent quality. Orchards containing figs, apples, peaches, 
pears, apricots, etc., are found in this neighborhood. Cotton 
was first experimented upon in 1811, but was soon after 
abandoned, and was again continued in 1842, and carried on 
up to the present time at from 12 to 20 miles west of Her- 
mosillo, on the plantations of Tenuaje and Palomos, and at 
Chino Gordo, 12 miles east. Sugar is produced from the 
cane, on the coast near the Yaqui River, and at San Ignacio 
and Ceris. The average yield of wheat is 250 to 300 from 
one bushel sown, upon the haciendas of Messrs. Autisernes, 
called the Topahui, and upon the haciendas of Hermosillo 
it rates from 150 to 175 from one. Indian corn and beans 
are extensively grown at San Antonio, Santa Rosa, on the 
rivers Sonora and Yaqui and Santa Cruz, and other locali- 
ties. The bottom lands of the Yaqui, Mayo, and lands bor- 
dering upon the Sonora and Santa Cruz rivers, produce 
wheat, also. On the river Yaqui, beans, lentils, sugar-cane, 
cotton, flax, indigo plant, coffee, tobacco, and various kinds 
of fruits, are raised. Sheep and cattle and horses in immense 
herds are raised, as well as many domestic fowls. The to- 
bacco has a narrow leaf, owing to the lack of proper culti- 
vation. 

Extensive salt-pits are also situated near the mouth of the 
river Yaqui, on the coast. In the same place, and in the 
mouth of the river Yaqui, are located the great oyster-beds 
of common and pearl oysters. The distance from Coccori 
to Cochori is about 90 miles, across the valley of the river 
Yaqui. The whole of this tract of land is susceptible of a 



24 

high degree of cultivation. We will give, hereafter, a 
special description of this region. The soil is here moist 
and alluvial, capable of raising all the productions of the 
temperate and tropic zones. The irrigation is produced by 
annual overflows of the river, and sufiices for the produc- 
tion of wheat, maize, and every class of productions yet ex- 
perimented upon. This section may well be compared to 
the rich lands of Egypt lying along the banks of the Mle. 
Immense sugar plantations may be here established, and 
produce fortunes for the possessor. The best portion of this 
land has been granted by the republic to a gentleman re- 
siding in Mexico." ISTear Altar, on the Magdalena or Altar 
river, pomegranates, figs, and grapes are raised, and immense 
herds of horses and cattle are seen grazing in the vicinity; 
also extensive ranchos that are exceedingly fertile are here 
located. 

In the northern part of the state, near Santa Cruz, is lo- 
cated a beautiful valley, clothed in verdure the year round. 
It is well watered by the Santa Cruz River, that takes its rise 
from a perpetual spring located to the north of the valley. 
Immense quantities of stock are here raised, and all kinds 
of grain, especially wheat, which is of excellent quality. It 
also produces the best red pepper of the state, and its hides 
find a ready market. The distance from Santa Cruz to 
Villa de Guadalupe, by way of Occua, Santa Aca, Santa 
Marta, San Lorenzo, and Magdalena, is 120 miles. When 
heavy clothing is necessary at Santa Cruz, other parts of the 
state are subjected to immense heat. Many swamps are 
in the vicinity, which produce fevers. 

The Presidio of Bacuachi raises cattle, sheep, and horses, 
and produces good wheat, which is mostly grown, owing to 
the early frosts. Kear the Presidio of Fronteras, the lands 
produce excellent wheat, maize, etc.; also, delicious peaches, 
apples, and the famous bergamot pear. A creek runs 
through this valley, which is used to irrigate the neighboring 
lands. Wild game is abundant in the neighborhood. The 
plains adjacent are all fertile and well watered. The climate 
is cool and healthy, and would be an excellent place to es- 
tablish a colony. Indeed, the whole of the north-eastern 
part of the state presents advantages that no other part of 
the state combines. It is well timbered, has abundance of 
water, and is one of the richest mineral regions of the state. 

To convince one of the remarkable resources of the state, 
a visit to the Hacienda de la Alameta, fifteen miles from 
Hermosillo, owned formerly by the Artaz ernes, will be suf- 



25 

ficient to satisfy the most skeptical. On the Alameta are 
miles of wheat, corn, and sugar-cane, and cotton. On this 
hacienda is erected a flour-mill of the best description, with 
abundance of water power, and a sugar-mill and works, a 
manufactory of blankets — the wool of which, and the dye- 
stuiis, are grown on the place. A wagon manufactory, car- 
ried on for the sole use of the hacienda, is also located in its 
limits. Tobacco also is produced of excellent quality. Or- 
anges, lemons, pomegranates, and other tropical fruits of de- 
licious flavor are grown in abundance. These places are 
simply principalities, where a man has all the products of 
the earth under tribute and at hand. The large cotton-mill 
near La Labor, at San Miguel, was ofl'ered to San Francisco 
capitalists on liberal terms, but was purchased by the 
Ortizes of Hermosillo. The cotton is raised at its very door, 
Lidigo, brazil-wood, cochineal, and other dye-stulFs, grow 
spontaneously on the Yaqui and Mayo rivers; also coffee of 
the best quality. 

The agricultural resources we thus see are rich beyond 
that of any state in the Republic of Mexico. If the state 
were well settled by an energetic class of immigrants, the 
future of this famous state would be of the most flattering 
character. We anticipate just such an immigration on the 
completion of the Southern Pacific and i?anta Fe Railroads. 
We shall hereafter give some attention to the railroads of 
the state. 



CHAPTER irr. 

Guaymas. 

The port of Guaymas is situated on the Gulf of California, 
about sixty miles above the mouth of the river Yaqui, in lati- 
tude 27 deg. 22 miu. north, and longitude 104 deg. 30 miu. 
west of Cadiz. It is completely sheltered from the sea, and 
is one of the best harbors on the Pacific. The entrance runs 
north and south, and is formed by the island of Pajaras on 
the east, and the islands of San Vicente, Pitayas, and Tierra 
Firma on the west. There is also another entrance, called 
Boca Chica, formed by the island of Pajaras on the south, 
and the beach of Cochin on the north. The length of the 
bay is from four to five miles. The bottom is muddy, and 



26 

when vessels remain for some time it is necessary to sight 
the anchor every fortnight. The depth of water at the 
island of Pajaras is seven fathoms, which gradually decreases 
to two, along the side of the mole. The latter, according 
to the opinion of mariners, is one of the best on the Pacific, 
excepting that of Callao. The depth of water at the an- 
chorage is three fathoms ; and vessels drawing fifteen feet 
are loaded, discharged, and hove down with facility. There 
are three landing-places, but no fortifications, although 
there are several points well suited to the purpose. The 
tides are irregular and uncertain, being influenced by the 
winds, from the gulf. In time of full and new moon they 
rise and fall eighteen to twenty inches ; and in the autumnal 
equinox, about four feet. Sailing-vessels are often delayed 
by calms in passing up the gulf to reach the harbor ; but 
since the era of steamships has arrived, it will have no appre- 
ciable effect on the commerce of the port, save only with 
sailing-vessels. The harbor abounds in various kinds of 
delicate fish and shell-fish. The latter comprises the shrimp, 
crab, lobster, oyster, and mussels of difi:erent kinds. The 
town is situated on the north of the bay, and is surrounded 
by a range of hills of moderate height, which leaves but one 
single entrance from the land side. There is but one prin- 
cipal street, called " Calle Principal," from the entrance to 
the Plaza ; the others being short and narrow. The soil is 
dry and rocky. The climate is not severe in winter ; but 
the north and north-west winds blow with great violence, 
and cause much inconvenience. The summer heat is exces- 
sive ; the thermometer occasionally rising up to 104 deg. in 
the shade, and never falhng below 90 deg., from June to 
September ; and when the north wind blows during this 
season from the dry and parched land lying adjacent and 
north of the city, it is so dry and parching in its effects that 
it ruins the finer articles of furniture. The health of the 
place is good. Water, for drinking, is drawn from four pub- 
lie wells on the skirts of the town, which is carried in carts 
and on the backs of donkeys, in leather bags. There are 
no trees in Guaymas but a few stunted ones in the Plaza. 
In the suburbs is a large orange-grove planted by Mr. John 
A. Robinson of this city, who resided some fifty years in 
Sonora. The grove is now owned by Mr. jST. Graff, of Guay- 
mas. Wood is scarce, and is brought from nine to fifteen 
miles from the interior ; also from the river Yaqui in boats, 
by the Indians, and constitutes the only fuel ; it is sold by 
the " carga," or load. There are two kinds of carga — the 



2T 

" buiTO," or donkey carga of 150 pounds ; and "mule " carga 
of 300 ; 50 sticks, or billets, as thick as the wrist, are 
counted out, 18 inches long, for the "burro" carga, and 
sell for 25 cents per carga ; and the same number of twice 
that length for the "mule" carga, and a corresponding 
price is demanded. The wagons used are the latest im- 
proved, although one sees occasionally the awkward cart 
coming in from the rauchos with wheels hewed or sawed off 
the end of a log. The houses are mostly adobe, with here 
and there a substantial brick building. There are about 
one-half dozen wholesale importing houses, and quite a num- 
ber of retail houses. The former import direct from Europe 
and the United States. Lumber is scarce, and is brought 
from San Francisco and Puget Sound. It sells from thirty 
to fifty dollars per thousand. Lumber is admitted free of 
duty. There are no banks either in Guaymas or in the State 
of Sonora ; and business is carried on with foreigners by ordi- 
nary bills of credit, and by drafts on San Francisco, London, 
Hamburg, and Paris banks. The principal business firms 
are Aguilar & Co., Sandoval & Bulle, Domingo Carrez, G. 
B. Fourcade, W. Iberri, Arvillez & Co., J. J. Kodgers, Luis 
Jarequi, Ramon Carrizosa, Aguayo Bros., Echiquyen & Esco- 
bos, and some others, who do a large wholesale as well as 
retail trade. 

An. agency of Wells Fargo is the only American institu- 
tion finding a foothold in Sonora. The American Consul is 
also stationed at Guaymas. There are quite a number of 
hotels, among which might be mentioned, " Cosmopolitan '' 
and " Hotel de Guaymas." 

There is also a shoe manufactory, a soap factory, an ice 
factory, one Roman Catholic church, and public and private 
schools. It is not generally known that compulsory educa- 
tion is one of the Mexican institutions. Courts of the first 
and second instance, a hospital, and a railroad depot, are 
also found in Guaymas, of A. T. & S. F. R. R, The popula- 
tion is about 5,000. The Atchinson, Topeka, and Santa Fe 
Railroad, called the Sonora Railway, commences at Ardilla 
Island, so called, and runs north, crossing a bridge across a 
portion of the bay near the old raucho of Gua^^mas. The 
land is level beyond this point for ten miles, and no grading 
is necessary. The rails are laid this distance, and the road 
graded 30 to 50 miles further. The company are under con- 
tract to complete the road toHermosillo by the 1st of March. 
"We are told the trains between Hermosillo and Guaymas 
will be running by the middle of March next, a distance ol 
100 miles. 



28 

East of tlie town, the country is more adapted to agricult- 
ure and grazing. East and south-east, commencing about 
sixty miles distant, are located the rich bottom lands of the 
Yaqni River, which supply the town with fowls, sheep, and 
grain. Flour and meat are brought from the interior; San 
Antonio and Santa Rosa furnishing corn and beans for the 
Guaymas market. Hides and bullion, flour, and, in fact, 
nearly all the exports of the state, are shipped at this point. 
There are two Justices of the Peace, a judge of the first in- 
stance, and a prefect and board of aldermen. The custom- 
house is very much lacking in store-houses and offices. The 
future of Guaymas is yet to come, through the energy and 
industry of foreign capitalists and immigrants. This will 
remain the pert of the state on the gulf, and it will hold its 
influence upon the commercial relations of Sonora. It will 
eventually be the most important town in the state. The 
railroad will soon connect it with San Francisco and the East. 
Another road is in contemplation, connecting it with Mazat- 
lan in the state of Sinaloa, and from thence to the City of 
Mexico, which we will notice more particularly hereafter. 
A new port, La Libertad, above Guaymas, has been opened, 
giving an immediate outlet to the valuable district of Altar 
and north-eastern Sonora. A considerable amount of east- 
ern capital has been invested in Guaymas and landed prop- 
erty adjacent. The foundries of San Francisco are turning 
out engines, mills, and costly machinery for the several 
mines owned in part here. The steamship lines established 
between San Francisco and Guaymas and Mazatlan are 
carrying this machinery to those ports, and from there trans- 
ported "to the interior. A new steamer has lately been 
built for the gulf trade above Guaymas. 

Alamos. 

The city of Alamos is situated some 240 miles south-east 
from the port of Guaymas, on the direct road by way of 
Buena Vista, on the Yaqui River. The town is situated in 
a rolling or hilly country, at the base of the Sierra Madre 
mountains, and is devoted principally to the mines in the 
vicinity, famishing suppUes to all the surrounding region. 
The population is about 5,000. We will give a more par- 
ticular description of the mines in this district hereafter. 

There is much business done here with Chihuahua, and 
the northern part of Sinaloa. The principal business houses 
are Thomas Robinson Bours, Vincente Ortiz & Hijos, and 
A. Goycoolea & Co. 



29 
Altar. 

Altar is a small mining town of about 2,500 inhabitants, 
and was formerly called Santa Gertrudis del Altar, and it is 
sometimes now called Guadalupe. It is watered by a small 
stream called Rio de la Assumpcion, branching from the 
Altar or Magdalena river. The stream is insufficient for 
irrigation in the dry season. The town is situated near the 
banks of the stream upon a plain about 80 miles northeast 
from the gulf coast, and about 100 miles from La Libertad, 
which is located southeast on the coast. The plains on the 
west are dry and sandy, and are a part of the great Colorado 
desert, which extends down the coast near Lobos, about 50 
miles distant in a south-west direction. The discovery of 
mines of gold and silver in the vicinity of Altar gave it a 
great impetus at one period in its history. It is mostly 
built of adobe houses, and contains several retail shops, one 
church, two justices of the peace, a prefect, and judge of the 
first instance. The town is garrisoned by a few soldiers, and 
the streets are irregular. East of the town are situated 
ranchos exceedingly fertile and abundantly watered. The 
place is distant from Santa Cruz about 120 miles, which lies 
in a north-east direction by way of Magdalena and Arispe. 
Santa Magdalena is about 70 miles distant. The latter 
town is also called San Ignacio, and is located due east of 
Altar, in a beautiful valle3\ The number of inhabitants is 
about 3,000. 

The stage connects at Magdalena with Hermosillo on the 
south-east and thence to Guaymas, and on the north with 
Tucson by way of Tombstone and Benson, Arizona. 

Hermosillo. 

Hermosillo is the largest town in the State and numbers 
about 12,000 inhabitants. It is situated in a valley about 
three and a half leagues, or about ten miles in length and 
five in breadth, sheltered on the north bj^ valleys, hills, 
and on the west by the range of hills called "Chauate," and 
on the east by the "Cerro de la Campaua" — hill of the bell 
— so-called because its rocks, when struck together, produce 
a sound similar to that of a bell. The base of this hill is 
bathed by a small stream or river called the Sonora, run- 
ning from east to west, which is sufficient to irrigate the 
lands between San Juanica and Chanate, cultivated by the 
inhabitants of the city, and of the pueblo of Ceris, which is 



30 

in sight to tlie south; the said lands being in length, from 
east to west, 12 to 15 miles. 

A large aqueduct passes through the middle of the settle- 
ment, which serves for irrigating the neighboring lands. 
Another passes near the river and 1he Cerro de la Campana, 
and a third divides the city north and south, furnishing 
water to the houses and orchards of orange, citron, lime, 
and fig trees, pomegranates and peach trees in the neigh- 
borhood, as well as immense fields of wheat, corn, and 
other cereals. The average annual quantity of its agricult- 
ural products reaches to about 70,000 bushels of wheat and 
about 300,000 bushels of Indian corn, and an immense quan- 
tity of other cereals. Large vineyards of grapes, from 
which brandy and wine are produced, and plantain trees of 
enormous growth, mingle with the rich landscape. The 
wine produced is hard to keep, owing to its tendency to 
sour, and it is mostly manufactured into brandy or aguadi- 
ente. The Tennage and Palomos cotton plantations are 
located from twelve to twenty miles west of the city, and at 
the Chino Gordo, about twelve miles east. Sugar-cane has 
not been very successfully grown in this vicinity ; but at 
San Juaniea and Ceris it is raised in small quantities. The 
capital of the State is located here, and the Legislature 
meets biennially, the same as under the Constitution of 
California. The Constitution of the State of Sonora is 
mostly copied from the old Constitution of California. The 
streets of the city are kept clean and are well paved. The 
principal street is called the "Calle Principal," the same as 
in Guaymas. The public buildings are, the capitol, the 
mint, the assayer's ofiice, and municipal builclings, includ- 
ing the prison and public school, and one or two churches. 
The school is held in a building purchased by the city, and 
consists of two departments, male and female. The number 
of pupils is about 600. Public examinations are held every 
six months. 

There are several hotels. The principal ones are, the 
"Itarbide," " ISTacional, " " Cinco de Mayo," and "Cosmo- 
politan." All are one-story adobes, with a court in the 
center, where the guests are obliged to sleep in the summer 
season. The houses are nearly all one-story adobe build- 
ings, with occasional brick residences and buildings. A 
new Catholic church is in course of construction. The 
principal plaza, in front of the church, is the most attract- 
ive feature of the city, and is set with orange trees and 
evergreens and covered with lawn grass, with enticing paths, 



ol 

meaiKleriDQ^ through flower beds, and bordered with orange 
trees, which afford an excellent shade. It is kept open all 
the time, and is provided with convenient seats for the 
leisure-taking Sonorians. An eye-witness pronounces it, in 
" size, beauty, and arrangement, as exceUing any in San Fran- 
cisco. " The whole is surrounded with a very pretty iron 
fence. In the center is a grand stand, from which music is 
wafted upon the evening breeze Thursday and Saturday 
nights, on which occasions it is the favorite resort of the 
people of the city. Tl^e ladies of Sonora are very beautiful, 
and, indeed, the town is known as the place of beautiful 
women. 

The ladies of Hermosillo of the higher class never go on 
the street with their faces uncovered. The "mantilla" of 
rich and gorgeous material is very gracefully thrown over 
the head, and one portion, with that indescribable drapery 
for which the Spanish ladies are noted, is carelessly thrown 
across the lower part of the face, concealing the features, 
and over the shoulder, while the beautiful eyes, some lus- 
trous black and others of blue, only are revealed to the gaze 
of the spectator, as they float along with that grace of car- 
riage and modest demeanor for which the Spanish ladies are 
so celebrated. The latest styles from Paris are ordered, 
and Worth has many customers throughout the republic. 
The descendants of the ancient Castilians are to be seen in 
blondes as well as brunettes ; and although the taste of the 
people is generally in favor of bright colors, still fashion has 
been wielding her scepter in Mexico as well as in the United 
States. 

Hermosillo is celebrated, as well as the rest of the state, 
for the fecundity of its women. It is not unusual to see a 
family with from 15 to 25 children. As an instance in point, 
there is a lady residing in Hermosillo weighing 260 pounds, 
tall and handsome withal, in spite of her corpulence, who is 
the last of a family of 28 children. This fact is vouched for 
by a well-known citizen of this city. Another gentleman, 
. an American by birth, and at one time a prominent citizen 
of Guaymas, but now residing in this city, married a Span- 
ish or Mexican lady, and is the fortunate father of no less 
than 17 children. The children of Sonora go almost naked, 
and thrive remarkably well, since the statement of Velasco 
that there is a great mortality among children, to which we 
have already referred. The prominent citizens even dress 
their children only with a shirt, hat, and boots. 

The business of the place is confined to the port of Guay- 



32 

mas and the interior of the state. There are about 30 shops 
and mercantile estabUshments in the city. The town is the 
favorite resort for travelers through the state. The princi- 
pal business men of the place are the Ortizes, Camous, Pes- 
quiera, Ruix & Mascareuas, Carlos Maneti, Alvistiqui & 
Alatorre, and Antonio Calderon. Most of these business 
houses import direct from Europe and the United States. The 
houses of Ortiz and the Camou Bros, are probablj^ as strong 
financially as any in the republic. The Ortizes, besides 
owning a large number of haciendas, comprising several 
hundred thousand acres, stocked with immense herds of 
cattle and horses and flocks of sheep, and several of the best 
mining properties of the state, own the large cotton-mill, 
called ''ludustria Sonorense," which employs about 300 men 
and women; also a sugar-mill and tannery. All these mills 
are located at Los Angeles, on the San Miguel River. The 
Camou Bros, own several large haciendas, also, with their 
thousands of cattle and horses, mules, sheep, and large mines. 
They also own the steam flour-mill, located at the city of 
Hermosillo, and another at El Molino Rancho. The town 
of Hermosillo is orderly, and the police regulations good. 
There is a very good market-place for the sale of meat and 
vegetables, but no bakeries, such as are seen in the United 
States, in the city. Water is found in abundance in wells, 
at the depth of 20 or 30 feet. Wood is plentiful, and brought 
from the timber, about two or three miles distant. A natu- 
ral cement stone is within the town limits, that is easily 
quarried, being soft, until it hardens on exposure. It may 
be quarried and used for building purposes. There is also 
a fine clay, used in the manufacture of brick, in the vicinity. 
There is also a shoe factory and wagon factory, and plenty 
of carpenter and blacksmith shops, etc., worked by foreigners. 
Wardrobes and other pieces of furniture are manufactured 
in the town. 

The railroad now being built from Guaymas will add to 
the business energy of the city, and its future is assured as 
the most important inland city in the State. There is a club 
in the city called the " Casion," of about one hundred mem- 
bers, of the principal citizens of the place, located in the 
former magnificent residence of Gov. Pesquiera ; also a 
theater ; and society is of the gayest during the sessions of 
the Legislature, when balls and receptions are quite frequent. 
There is no gas in the city ; but an attempt is being made 
to organize a company for that purpose. The streets and 
houses are lighted by lamps. Senor Falizardo Torres is the 



33 

superintendent, and Mr. Edward Norman, is the cashier. 
"We are informed that the mint here, the two mints of Sina- 
loa and the mints of Chihuahua and Durango are leased to 
Messrs. Simon & Co., of England, making five in all, or the 
mints of the four northern States. We also understand that 
they hold Mexican bonds to a heavj amount. Robt. Simon, 
of this firm, residing in New York, is said to be very influ- 
ential with the Mexican government. 

There are two stage hues running from Tucson to Hermo- 
sillo; one by Babasaqui and Altar, which is the longer route, 
and the stages are slower and are not in so good condition 
as the stages on the other route, though the fare is cheaper. 
The fare over this route, by buying the ticket at Tucson for 
Guaymas, that is, by way of Altar, is $24. The other route 
is by way of Calabasas and Magdalena. The difierence in 
price is not much ; but the stages are better, and horses 
faster, insuring a quicker trip. The distance from Tucson 
to Hermosillo is about one hundred leagues, through Magda- 
lena, and the ride is tUrough a beautiful country ; conse- 
quently this is the most popular route. A sixteen hours' 
ride from Plermosillo, reaches Guaymas, over about one 
hundred miles. 

Immense herds of cattle are passed on the way, of from 
5,000 to 10,000 head in each, handled by gaily-decked 
caballeros, who are fine riders, and very gracefully bestride 
very beautiful horses. They are very fine looking in appear- 
ance ; and with their gaudy scrapes and sombreros, are 
withal very prepossessing. 

A writer to the Farmer cmd Dealer^ San Francisco, says : 

"The Sonora Railway, Limited, has already nearly 100 
miles graded from Hermosillo, on their route to or near El 
Paso, where they connect with the Atchesou, Topeka and 
Santa Fe road, which gives direct railroad communication 
with Chicago and the East ; 30 miles of steel rails on hand; 
track-laying has begun, and the locomotive whistle has 
already sounded the death-knell of the old ox-train trans- 
portation to and from Hermosillo, and I have no doubt the 
poor oxen will rejoice. The first of March next is the time 
set for the opening of the 100 miles of road. Another road, 
called the Mexican Central, from the capital to El Paso, has 
about 1,000 men employed at the southern end. These two 
roads will drain the whole country, an'l open to American 
enterprise a rich field for operation. 

" Already, in anticipation of the future, American capital 
is flowing into Sonora ; no less than six mines, ranging in 



34 

price from $200,000 upwards, having been sold to New 
York and Chicago parties in the last six months, and more 
are coming every day. 

"For the gold mine of Los Mulatos, 11,000,000 has been 
refused. ' ' 

The distance from Hermosillo to Ures is about fifty miles, 
situated north-east, and to Arispe, 150 miles north-east of 
Ures, and Santa Cruz, about 250 miles ; thence 170 miles to 
Tucson by way of Magdalena, distant 300 miles, and is 
about 100 miles by stage from Guaymas. 

Ures. 

This town was formerly the capital of the State, and is 
situated in a most beautiful valley, stretching from east to 
west, the soil of which is exceedingly fertile and suitable for 
the production of all kinds of fruits, excellent wheat, sugar- 
cane and cotton of superior quality. The environs are 
picturesque and pleasing to the eye of the visitor. It is 
located on the Sonora River, and on the road from Hermo- 
sillo and Alameda, a road lined with trees on each side 
similar to the Alameda between San Jose and Santa Clara in 
this State : the road in this instance being bordered with 
trees on either side for four miles, and presents an elegant 
drive for the residents of Ures. 

The town originally was environed with numerous 
creeks that threatened it with inundations, when it was re- 
moved upon a neighboring plateau. The town is not so 
large as Hermosillo, yet its neat and elegant gardens of rare 
and beautiful flowers, lime, orange, and citron groves, 
make it a gem of a little city. There are some very sub- 
stantial residences of brick scattered here and there among 
the adobe houses, and even elegant residences, among 
which may be mentioned Gov. Pesqueira's residence, hand- 
somely fu rnished. A large orchard is attached to his resi- 
dence and grounds, with orange, lime, lemon, peach, and 
olive trees bearing finely, besides an extensive vineyard. 

Since the capital of the State was removed to Hermosillo 
the population has shrunk from 10,000 to 5,000. There is 
quite a rivalry between the two cities, and the dispute over 
the capital is not yet ended. If the Atchison, Topeka and 
Santa Fd Railroad passes up the Sonora river to El Paso, it 
will pass through this place. There is a vast agricultural 
and mining country around and adjacent to the city, and 
business is quite extensive. There are some heavy com- 



35 

mercial firms in the city, among which may be mentioned 
Lauro Morales, Joaquin Villaes, Cusa & Co., Francisco Her- 
nandez, Manuel Morales & Co. and Francisco C. Aguilar. 
The climate is much cooler* at Ures than at Hermosillo, and 
one is able to sleep within doors. Among the important 
haciendas of arable land may be mentioned, Santa Rita, 
Molino, Guadalupe, Topahui and others. There are no im- 
portant public buildings except certain small houses pur- 
chased during the administration of General Urea to form a 
palace, a penitentiary or House of Correction. Excellent 
stone for building is in the neighborhood of the city. The 
principal hotel is the Gubion, kept by a Frenchman. 

The Rancho of Gov. Pesquiera, called Las Delicias, is lo- 
cated about 60 miles distant by way of Canada Andia, El 
Puertecito, El Molinate, Soqui, San Jose, La Estancia, La 
Concha and Baviacora. The last named town was once an 
important place, with a population of 3,000, and is situated 
in a pretty little valley one mile from the Sonora River, 
in one of the most fertile and beautiful districts of the 
State. 

The grounds of the hacienda of Las Delicias is fenced in 
and laid out with orange and lime groves and flower gar- 
dens, containing rare flowers. The hacienda consists of a 
little over 30,000 acres of arable land, and about one-fifth 
is first-class agricultural land, devoted to the raising of 
wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, etc.; the balance is very good 
grazing land, covered with alfalfa and gramma grass. It is 
situated in a valley of considerable extent. Gov. Pes- 
quiera has made this hacienda his residence, owing to the 
existence of rich mines in the vicinity, which are owned by 
him, and demand his attention in working them. 

Among the reptiles that are found in the State may be 
mentioned the scorpion, whose sting is deadly. Rumor 
says that they are more deadly in the interior than on the 
coast. 

One citizen near Guaymas was recently bitten by one 
of these reptiles on the hand. He simply twisted a strong 
India-rubber band around his wrist to keep the poison from 
communicating to the rest of the system, and took some 
ammonia, and the wound soon healed, without any serious 
result following. Strong spirits are generally used to work 
ofi:' the virus from the system. 

Santa Cruz is the most northern town of Sonora, distant 
about 120 miles from the boundary line of Chihuahua and 
ten to fifteen from the boundary line of Arizona, and situ- 



36 

ated on a road direct to Guadalupe or Altar, which passes 
through Occua, Santa Ana, Santa Marta, San Lorenzo, 
Santa Magdalena, or San Ignacio, Tenenate, Imuris, and San 
Lazaro. The population is about 800. The town is located 
in a beautiful valley, clothed in verdure the entire year, in 
latitude 32 degrees 15 minutes north, and in a region that is 
pronounced to be the best agricultural region of the State, 
outside of the bottom lands of the rivers Yaqui and Mayo. 
It is also the best timbered of any portion of the northern 
part of the state, and in other respects presents advantages 
to the settler. Indeed, the valley of Santa Cruz, with its 
adjacent districts, where there are several rich and highly- 
cultivated haciendas and missions, must become the future 
granary of Arizona. The Santa Cruz River rises in a broad 
valley, or rather plain, north of the town, and passes the 
base of a mountain range through an open country, studded 
with oaks, into an open plain covered with luxuriant grass, 
without tree or shrub. It then passes between a low range 
of hills into the valley where the town is located. The 
river then flows south nine miles to San Lorenzo — a consid- 
erable rancho — and then takes a northerly course, winding 
its way through a beautiful valley, until it is lost across the 
line into Arizona, in the desert plain or sands some ten or 
fifteen miles north of Tucson. It is about 150 miles in 
length. Its width varies from 20 to 100 feet, and during dry 
seasons portions of it disappear. This valley was traversed 
by the earliest Spanish explorers in 1535, seduced by the 
flattering accounts of Cabela de Vaca. 

Marco de ISTiza and Coronado led their deluded adventur- 
ers through it in search of the famed cities of Cibola, north 
of the Gila River ; and before 1600, its richness having 
been made known, it was soon after occupied as missionary 
ground. Remains of several of these missions still exist. 
The Mission Church of San Xavier del Bac, erected during 
the last century, was the finest edifice of the kind in Sonora. 
Tumacacori, a few miles south of;,Tubac, was the most exten- 
sive. The towns and settlements of the Santa Cruz valley, 
across the line, in Sonora, are, Santa Cruz and San Lorenzo. 
The lands of this valley are suitable for stock-raising and all 
kinds of grain, especially wheat, which is produced of ex- 
cellent quality. 

Baeuaehi. 

The town or Presidio of Eacuachi is located about 50 
miles south-east from Santa Cruz, on the road to Arispe, 



37- 

which is located on the Sonora River. It was at oue time 
rich in cattle, sheep, and horses; but the Apaches swept 
them away, and the town became almost a heap of ruins. 
It is located in a very fertile valley, near the base of a range 
of mountains on the west, on the Sonora River, that rises in 
a valley north of the town and across the boundary line, in 
IN'ew Mexico. It also lies in a straight lino drawn from the 
boundary line between Arizona and jSTew Mexico, and is 
distant from the boundary line of the United States about 
40 miles within or near the lower part of the prohibited 
belt. There are gold mines in the neighborhood of marvel- 
ous richness. The rich placers on the Sonora not being very 
distant, great quantities of this precious metal was extracted 
from the mines in the vicinity, of twenty-two carats fine. 
The miners were driven off" by the Apaches, and the mines 
were, consequently, abandoned. The gold is coarse, and 
pieces have been found weighing twenty-five marcs. These 
mines might be made to yield a magnificent return if they 
were opened. The future of this mining district is just to 
open, since the suppression of the Apaches. -A colony of 
miners will here find a rich field; for the whole region is 
rich in minerals, and but awaits the hands of man to develop 
their vast resources. This locality has been peculiarly ex- 
posed to the incursions of the Apaches, and for that reason, 
its mineral wealth has been withheld from the prospector. 
We predict a tremendous immigration to this point and ail 
along the headwaters of the Yaqui River. The climate is 
cool and healthful, and epidemics or fevers are entirely un- 
known, while the soil is of the most fertile character, 
producing wheat, corn, etc., and presents a grazing region 
unexcelled anywhere; and there is an entire absence of 
swamps that are found in the Santa Cruz valley, which 
sometimes induce fevers. There are here two justices of the 
peace, subject to the sub-prefect of Arispe. 

The town of Fronteras is situated in latitude 31 deg. N., 
north-east of Bacuachi, distant about 35 miles, and 20 miles 
from the boundary line of ISTew Mexico. The t3wn contains 
but one street, at the foot of a creek whose waters irrigate 
the neighboring lands, which produce excellent wheat, 
maize, etc ; also, the delicious peaches for which Sonora is 
celebrated, apples, and bergamot pears. The town is sit- 
uated 35 miles north-east of Bacuachi, and the greater 
part of the road is between dense thickets. This point was 
the most exposed to the Apaches of any in the State, but is 
now comparatively safe. The climate is cool and healthy, 



38 

timber is abundant, and game plentiful. The plains are fer- 
tile and well watered. Two justices of the peace are located 
here. 

Bapispe is situated about 18 miles west of the boundary 
line of Chihuahua, on the banks of a small creek which 
empties into the river Bapepito. It is isolated from all 
other towns, and is situated about 40 miles south of the 
boundary line of the United States at New Mexico, and east 
of Bacuachi about 90 miles. 

The creek passing the town rises in a valley south-east of 
the town and flows north-west into a plain about 20 miles; 
then south-west into the Bapepito, near Oputo. A road con- 
nects this town with Janos in Chihuahua, about 40 miles dis- 
tant. This territory of the Bapispe district contains the 
towns of Guachinera and Baserac, and haciendas Santa Ana 
and Loreto ; it formerly comprised a number of wealthy 
ranchos, but all have been despoiled by the Apaches. Bapis- 
pe possesses excellent grazing lands and abundance of water. 
The population is about 800. They are engaged principally 
in the manufacture of soap and leather. About six miles east 
is located a rich silver mine, that has not been worked much 
on account of the Apaches. 

Arispe is situated south-west of Bacuachi, on the river So- 
nora, in a valley skirting an immense table-land or plain, and 
a range of mountains extending north-east and south-west. 
Extensive silver mines are located south-east in this range of 
mountains, called the Babiconicora and Bauamiche ; also, 
south-west, the San Rosalio mine is located, also of silver, 
The hacienda of Las Delicias, owned by General Pesquiera, 
is also situated south-west of Arispe. A road runs from Bacu- 
achi along the river Sonora, in a south-westerly direction, 
through Bacaclobabi, Chinapa, Guipaberachi, Ciniriasanta, 
Arispe, Bamori, Sinoquipe, Monteport, Bamanitchi, Hue- 
paca, Mochobavi, Aconche Babiacora, Concej)cion, Purete- 
cito, San Francisco, and Ures, distant about 100 miles. The 
same river passes Ures and Hermosillo in the same direction, 
until it is lost in the sandy plains on the coast, south-west 
of Hermosillo, and is about 200 miles long. 

Moctezuma, or Oposura, is situated on the Soyopa River, 
in a large plain, that extends from the head-waters of the 
river Soyopa, which runs almost due south for about 100 
miles, and then taking a south-easterly course, empties into 
the river Yaqui, about 20 miles further. A road runs from 
Moctezuma, down the Soyopa River to the Yaqui, and thence 
along the Yaqui to Comoripa and Buenavista. This plain 



39 

is one of the largest in the state, and over 100 miles in 
length, and about 40 miles wide at its widest point. In the 
mountain ranges west of the head-waters of the Bapepito 
are situated the silver mines of El Piutos, Sesentero, San 
Pedro, El Rosario, Cinco Senora, El Humacal, and Plomosa. 
South-west of Soyopa, on this river, is located the Mina 
Prieta copper mine, and the silver mines of El Paste, and 
Los Bronces. East of the latter, the La Barranca, and the 
great gold mine called the San Antonio de la Huerta; the 
latter two of which are located near the mouth of the Soyopa 
River. 

Sahuaripa is a small town located on a branch of the 
Bapepito, east of the river of that name, and distant from 
Bacuachi about one hundred and fifty miles south-east by 
way of the road through Bapepito and Oputo, crossing the 
branch of the river ; thence south, along the Bapepito, to 
Cienega, Guainipa, lascotol, and crossing the Bapepito to 
Huasavas; thence to Baca de Huachi, crossing again the same 
river ; thence south-east to ISTocori, on the river Viejo, which 
empties into the Bapepito south-west about fifteen miles ; 
thence to Palmar, Casa, San Gabrielle, through the silver 
mine of San Felipe to Sahuaripa. 

This region is well watered, and abundance of timber is 
found in the mountains. Several large haciendas are also 
in the neighborhood, along the stream and between the two 
streams ; the stream on the north being the Rio Viejo, 
which takes its rise in the same neighboring mountains on 
the east. ISTorth-east of Sahuaripa, distant about fifty miles, 
is located the great gold mines of Cieueguita and the silver 
mine called the Minas Prietas Viejas, both of which are lo- 
cated at the base of the mountains ; the Cieneguita being 
north of the latter about fifteen miles. 

A road runs direct from the town through a rancho to the 
Minas Prietas Viejas mine. This is a rich mineral region, 
and will ere long be completely settled. 

The region north of these mines has never been completely 
explored, and has not yet known the tread of the American 
miiner. The second main branch of the river Yaqui, called 
the Papigochi or Mulatos, runs south of this region, taking 
a north-easterly course and emptying into the Bapepito about 
fifty miles south-west of Sahuaripa. 

Gold placers are located east of Santa Cruz, about forty 
miles; and the mine of La Cananea south-east of Santa Cruz 
thirty miles ; and the Santa Teresa silver mines and San 
Rafael Valle silver mines, forty miles south-west. The 



40 

Planchas de Plata silver mines are located west of Santa 
Cruz about fifty miles. The Altar mine, or mines surround- 
ing Altar, are located in many districts. West of that 
place the gold mines of La Basura are located about 
seventy miles, and silver mines north-east of the same mine 
about ten miles. The Cajitos gold mines are located south- 
west of Altar about seventy miles ; and south-west of La 
Basura, the placers of gold Micaray, and Alamo de San 
.Feliz, silver, are also located about seventy miles ; also, the 
silver mines of Los Palomos are located on the river Assump- 
cion, south-west of Altar about ninety miles, and about 
seventy miles north of La Libertad, on the coast. South 
of Altar about thirty miles, are located the Alamitos, sil- 
ver, and La Tollena, gold mines, near. The Mina 
Grande silver mine is located about eighty miles south of 
Altar, and Latesote near Cienega, east about ten miles. Ca- 
borca gold mines are located near the same river. Rich 
gold placers are also found west of Altar on the elevated 
plains about one hundred miles distant ; and the Quitovac 
gold mines, which were once rich, about one hundred 
and fifty miles north-west of Altar. So that the town 
may be said to be completely surrounded by mines. 

Rivers Yaqui and Mayo. 

The river Yaqui, or Buena Vista, rises in the Sierra Madre 
Maicova, and takes a south-westerly course through Bapispe, 
Todos Santos, the pueblo of Soyopa, Honavas, Tenichi, San 
Antonio and Comuripa, to the city of Buena Vista, where 
it enters the Yaqui settlement and finally empties into the 
Gulf of CaUfornia, in front of the pueblo of Rahum. It has 
many branches, and may be said to drain all the region east 
of Arispe, Ures and Hermosillo, to the summit of the Sierra 
Madre range, which divides the states of Sonora and Chi- 
huahua, and north of the river Mayo. 

One of its branches called the Bapepito rises in the south- 
eastern portion of Arizona; and another called the Papi- 
gochi, or Mulatos, at the base of the Sierra Madre, across the 
boundary Une in south-western Chihuahua. It is the largest 
river of the state, and is estimated to be four hundred miles 
in length, from its source to its mouth. Its waters pass 
through the richest agricultural portion of the state, and 
through immense placers of gold, and along the base of 
ledges of silver, copper, galena, and tin ores. 

Its rich bottom lands are the most fertile of any in the state, 



41 

and raise in spots now under cultivation, wheat, sugar-cane, 
corn, cotton, the indigo plant, tobacco, and the various cer- 
eals. At and near its mouth, where the soil is not under culti- 
vation, immense cane-brakes of a kind of bamboo extend 
along its banks for about sixty miles. If brought under con- 
trol by proper agriculture, its valuable lands could produce 
immense quantities of all the products that an alluvial soil, 
well irrigated, will produce. The best portion of the lands 
are in possession of the Yaqui Indians, with some exceptions, 
but its lands are so extensive that after reserving sufficient for 
the Indians, millions of acres of arable lands would remain 
to be brought under cultivation. 

Here is an opportunity for colonization that is unrivaled in 
the United States or the Republic of Mexico. The land is 
easily irrigated from the river, and would provide homes for 
colonization of a large population. In time of high water 
the river is navigable for small vessels for from fifty to sev- 
enty-five miles. Flour-mills are located on its banks, owned 
by foreigners — the result of foreign capital and energy. At 
its mouth are located the best oyster-beds on the coast of the 
gulf. We are assured by parties who have tested the quali- 
ties of these oysters, that they are equal to our best Eastern 
bivalves. San Francisco will soon have the pleasure of test- 
ing them on the completion of the Sonora Railway con- 
necting Guaymas with San Francisco. Packed in ice man- 
ufactured at Guaymas, they can successfully be exported 
direct by rail to San Francisco, on the completion of the 
railroad, thus opening up a new avenue for some enterpris- 
ing gentleman who will take the initiative. San Francis- 
cans would like to try some of the Yaqui oj^sters if they are 
as represented. We understand that Dr. Charles McQues- 
ten of this city, and Rafael Escobosa of Guaymas, are now 
the bona fide owners of these oyster beds, and the extent of 
their possession comprises one league square in the delta of 
the Yaqui at the old mouth. The oysters are found in the 
sloughs which extend from one to two miles inland. 

The basin of this river at its widest point is about 
ninety miles wide. After the rains have ceased, the 
river is fordable, though still deep until the droughts in 
April, May and June. IsTear Soyopa, Buena Vista, and 
Honavas, are located a greater proportion of the best bottom 
lands. The salt-pits of the river, located near the coast, 
supply the interior towns, and are considered the property 
of the Yaquis. The annual overflow of the river supplies 
sufficient irrigation for one crop of wheat, maize, beans, len- 



42 

tils, and various kinds of fruit, at the points thus irrigated. 
Cotton, flax, and coffee, are also successfully raised. We are 
told by Velasco, the sheep raised upon its nutritious grasses 
attain the size of a yearling calf, and make excellent mutton. 
Beef cattle of the best quality are raised. At one time the 
Mission of Huirivis alone owned 40,000 head. The tobacco 
raised by the Indians upon the banks of this river is of very 
good quality ; and the plant might, with proper cultivation, 
be equal to that of Havana. Immigration to this region 
must be of incalculable value to the state in the increase of 
its productions. 

The river Mayo rises also in the Sierra Madre, and though 
it is smaller, and its bottom lands more narrow than those of 
the Yaqui, yet its fertility is the same, and may produce like 
results proportionate to the extent of its lands that are sus- 
ceptible of cultivation. The Mayo Indians are located on 
its banks. The two rivers are separated by a low range of 
hills or mountains, and the intervening hills are good graz- 
ing lands. The pueblos of the Mayos, from the sierra on the 
east to Conicari on the west, are Macollagui in the sierra, 
Conicari, Camoa, Tecia, Nabajoa, Cuirimpo, Guitajoa, Echo- 
joa, Santa Cruz, and Masiaca. 

The Yaqui settlements extend from Buena Vista to Belen, 
over a territory of 84 miles in length. A brig might enter 
the mouth of the river Mayo, and a harbor is located at the 
port of Loreto, at this point. It was the first settlement of 
the gulf, and renowned for its pearl fishery, which has pro- 
duced splendid fortunes. In the gulf, many large whales are 
sometimes caught, of various kinds; also, sharks of enormous 
size haunt its coasts, to the great danger of the pearl fish- 
ermen, who are Yaqui Indians. They always carry a long, 
keen knife with them while diving after pearls, to defend 
themselves. The " manta," or blanket fish, also, is another 
great enemy of theirs, and very formidable. It has fins 
like the arms of a man, says a writer, by which it seizes its 
prey. 

The Presidio of Buenavista is located on the Yaqui River, 
on the main road to Alamos, about 300 miles from Arispe, by 
way of Hermosillo, and about 260 miles by way of the road 
of Matape, which runs along the banks of a stream by that 
name, south of Hermosillo. It is situated upon a small 
rocky promontory or hill, and is, consequently, very hot. It 
claims some importance as a military position, and is sup- 
posed to present a barrier against the revolt of the Yaquis 
and Mayo Indians. Its soldiers are poorly supplied and sel- 
dom paid. 



43 

The recent attempts to survey the lands of the Yaqui and 
Mayo rivers have been suspended, awaiting a petition from 
the Legislature of Sonora to the general government to 
supply a force of 1,000 soldiers to keep the Yaquis in sub- 
jection during the survey and location of certain govern- 
ment grants upon those rivers. For this purpose, a return 
grant by the owners to the general government of a portion 
of the lands is to be made to cover the expense of maintain- 
ing the military in this district. 

The lands adjacent to the town are of the fertile character 
that belongs to the bottom lauds of the Yaqui and Mayo 
rivers. From this point, the Yaqui River is navigable 
during the greater part of the year, and timber, grain, and 
other productions can easily be transported to Guaymas. 
Mines of gold and silver are located at Cumuripa, Cendra- 
ditas and San Francisco de Borja, which, when worked, 
yield abundantly. 

The current of the river is rapid at Buenavista and many 
other points. Ore might be transported from this place and 
shipped from Guaymas. Along the river, above Buenavista, 
there are hundreds of veins of gold and silver that could be 
worked profitably. The placers are located near this place, 
and are said to be very rich. 

The town of San Pedro de la Conquista is situated south 
of Tlermosillo, on the river Sonora, a short distance. 
Cattle and horses are here raised, and different kinds of grain 
grown. There have been no mines of any consequence 
discovered here. The land is well timbered with iron-wood, 
the mesquite, the huayacan, (a very solid and compact wood) 
and the huevito. An herb is here found, called the "cou- 
fituria," which is much esteemed, as possessing medicinal 
qualities, and is said to be used as a specific for hydro- 
phobia. 

The land is fertile, producing wheat and Indian corn or 
maize, beans, pulse, lentils. Chili peppers, sweet potatoes, 
etc. Figs are raised in profusion, grapes, peaches, apri- 
cots, pomegranates, quinces, sweet and sour oranges, hmes, 
citrons, and the guava. 

Wheat is sown from October to December, and sometimes 
as late as January, and is harvested from May to July. Two 
crops of beans are raised annually. The first is planted in 
February or March, and the second in July and August. 
Two crops of corn are also sometimes raised, the most 
abundant being gathered in jSTovember and December. That 
gathered in July or August is generally of inferior 



44 

quality. Grain, flour, and other products are transported to 
Guaymas and other places, in wagons drawn by mules and 
oxen. 

There are several grist-mills turned by water-power at 
this place, the best grinding from 25 to 30 cargas (of 300 
lbs. each), in 24 hours. Sugar-cane is also raised. The 
climate is healthy, and the population about 1,200. The 
town has two justices of the peace, subject to the tribunal 
of first instance at Hermosillo. 

The Indians and Presidios. 

The Yaqui and Mayo Indians inhabit the cane-brakes on 
those rivers, and are depended upon mostly for laborers all 
through the state. They are not averse to labor, and are 
employed in every capacity. They possess remarkable 
natural abilities, and soon learn the trades of blacksmithing, 
carpentering, etc. They have been known to manufacture 
fireworks, and are skillful players on the harp and violin. 
Their character is resolute, and they are very jealous of their 
lands. They are generally copper-colored and well formed. 
The women are of medium height and corpulent. In some 
of the settlements, the women are exceedingly fair and 
handsome; but these latter are mostly half-breeds. The 
Yaqui, with few exceptions, has but few wants. A cotton 
shirt and drawers for the men, and shawl and petticoat for 
the women, suflices; while the children run naked, with the 
exception of a cloth around the loins. Their nature is joy- 
ous, and they are very fond of music and dancing. They are 
suspicious, and a supposition of deception serves as well as 
the reality. They have been known to revolt against the 
government and commit great atrocities. They are brave, 
and have been known to fight steadily for hours against the 
government troops. They shun the society of the whites, 
and only live near them for the sake of employment. Ye- 
lasco says, " They will steal, gamble, and drink, and have no 
generosity or gratitude" — a rather peculiar trait for the 
Indian — yet they work in the mines, till the soil, build 
houses, and perform nearly all the labor of Sonora. They 
alone of all the Indians are skillful pearl-divers ; but so 
"great is their love of robbery," says Francisco Velasco, 
an impartial Spanish writer, " that they abandon any occu- 
pation, however profitable, for the purpose of stealing 
cattle and horses from the ranchos in the neighborhood of 
the river. This they practice even in times of peace." 



45 

But Mr. Auclrade tells us that this is not so at present. 
They have greatly improved since the writing of Velasco's 
book. Their population amounts to 13,500 in the state, ac- 
cording to Cubas. 

The Mayos possess the same characteristics as the Yaquis, 
Being located on the Mayo, they are called Mayos. The 
Ceris are more allied to savages, are filthy, drunken, and 
bitterly hostile to the whites. They are located by the gov- 
ernment upon the pueblo of San Pedro de la Conquista, 
where they have lands assigned to them for their support. 
They are lazy, and dress themselves in either the skins of 
the pelican or a coarse blanket wrapped around the waist. 
Some wear nothing but a strip of cloth about the loins, and 
none wear shoes. They paint their faces in black stripes, and 
many pierce the cartilages of the nose, and append to it 
pieces of a green stone resembling glass. The women per- 
form the greater part of the labor, gathering the crops, etc. 
The men are tall, erect, and generally stout. The women 
are copper-colored, and wear a petticoat made of the pelican 
skin, with the feathers, which covers the form from the 
waist down. They worship the moon, and prostrate them- 
selves, beating their breasts, and kiss the ground on the 
appearance of the new moon. 

The Opatas are more frank and docile, and are friendly 
towards the whites, many of them serving as soldiers. 
They are brave to the last extremity, and have been known 
to withstand an onset of the Apaches outnumbered eight to 
one. They are just and humane in their dealings, and ca- 
pable of a high degree of education. They are the bitter 
foes of the Apaches, showing them no mercy in an en- 
counter. 

The Opatas live in several of the towns, where the mixed 
race predominates, called Opodepe, Cucurpe, Suaque, Acou- 
chi, Babiacora, Arivechi, Santo Tomas, Bacanora, and 
Nuri in the center ; Oposura, Guayavas, Baca de Huachi, 
Nacori, Mochop, and Oputo in the sierra ; Chinapa, Bacuachi, 
Cuquiurachi, and Cumpas, to the north. The Opatas are 
able-bodied, and as fleet as the game they pursue. Their 
haughty character is illustrated by the following, related by 
Cubas, of a band of them in rebellion: "Persecuted by 
General Gandara with very superior forces, in consequence 
of an insurrection, they refused to surrender themselves, 
even after each one at his post had shot his last arrow. 
Their captain, with some few who had survived the contest, 
took refuge on the summit of an almost inaccessible mount- 



46 

aiu, and there awaited the approach of General Gandara's 
emissaries, who had intimated their submission. Believing 
themselves humiliated at the demand for the delivery of 
their arms, they declared to the envoys of the general their 
resolution to deliver themselves up to their conquerors, with- 
out abandoning their arms. Upon General Gandara's insist- 
ing in his demands, and they in their resolution, their conduct 
decided him to take them prisoners by force, which they 
avoided by an act worthy of the ancient Spartans, in throw- 
ing themselves over the precipice at the moment the gen- 
eral's troops were ascending the heights." The Opatas are 
most useful citizens, and have on many occasions proved 
their loyalty to the Mexican Government by resisting the 
attacks of the Apaches. They seldom go barefooted, every 
man has a blanket, and every woman a long scarf. They 
are good carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and house-paint- 
ers, and manufacture blankets, shawls, coarse cottons, sad- 
dles, pack-saddles, bridles, etc., and considerable quantities 
of soap. 

The Papajos are numerous, and located in the western 
part of the state, subsisting principally on wild fruits, espe- 
cially the " pi taya, " from which they manufacture a deli- 
cious syrup, and carry it to the settlements for sale in earthen 
jars. In the winter they resort to the settlements of La 
Pimeria to trade, exchanging skins and baskets. This 
tribe is also the sworn enemy of the Apaches. 

The Apaches are divided into the Coyotes or Pinelores, 
the Tontos, Chiricahuis, Mimbrenos, Gilenos, Mescaleros, 
Sacramantenos, Mogollones, Carrizallenos, Gipanes, Fara-^ 
ones, and ISTavajoes. They have had no fixed habitation,* 
and reside in the mountains and on the plains, and often 
make incursions into Sonora, near Altar and Magdalena, and 
also in the north-east, in the mountains of Chihuahua, near 
Janos, and in Coahuilla. They are the most savage of all the 
Indians of Mexico, and are exceedingly fleet, both in trav- 
ersing the vast plains and in climbing the rugged eminences 
of the mountains ; and, besides, are excellent horsemen. 
Their arms are mostly the bow and arrow ; but some few 
have fire-arms, and a lance with a flint point. They use a 
leather quiver, and a shield of leopard's skin, ornameoted 
with feathers and with small mirrors in the center. They 
are cowardly, and only attack unawares ; crafty and treach- 
erous, and scalp their victims. They make use of smoke 
for telegraphic signals. They are fond of hunting deer and 
wild boars, "ciballos," or Mexican bulls, black bears, wild 



47 

goats, and Rocky Mountain sheep. Their dress consists of a 
strip of linen passing between their thighs, and fastened at 
the waist, and leggings of deerskin with fringes, ornamented 
with beads, and garnished with leather strings, and wear 
pendants and ear-rings, and in their hair they fasten a long 
false braid, adorned with trinkets, shells, or silver buckles. 
The women, who are as active as the men in their habits, 
use very short garments of deer-skin or kid, which they call 
"tlacalee," with fringes of leather strings, on the edges of 
which are hung casebels, tassels, and red beads. They wear, 
also, a kind of jacket called "bietle," made of the entire 
deer-skin, open in front, ornamented in the same manner. 
They wear moccasins of deer-skin, the same as the men, 
which are called "teguas," and are fastened to the leggings. 
They are all of swarthy complexion, well proportioned, wear 
long hair, and no beard. Both the men and women have 
very small feet. The women decorate themselves with ear- 
rings of shells, or small green and white stones, resembling 
crystal ; and in some instances the men are decorated in 
like manner. Their huts are simply poles covered with 
grass or skins, and a small door, admitting a grown person. 
If the place is wooded, they encamp at the foot of a tree, 
and cover the branches with grass to protect them from the 
rain ; but generally they live without any protection what- 
ever. Their atrocities are well known, and they have long 
been a terror to the Sonorians ; but the dispersion of Vic- 
torio's band subdued them, with the exception of small rov- 
ing bands, that do not hesitate to attack even the stages, 
as they did but a short time since, near Mesilla, in l^ew 
Mexico. Comparative peace may be said to exist, though 
settlers may do well to keep on the lookout, and travel well 
armed. 



DISCOVEET or GOLD. 



In 1799, the first discovery of gold in the western part of 
the state was made at San Ildefonso de la CieneguiUa, about 
forty miles south or south-east of Altar, of which many 
incorrect accounts have been published. This discovery was 
accidental, and occurred as follows : 

" A company of soldiers from Altar, on their way to chas- 
tise the Ceris, having gone in a south-east direction, en- 
camped in that neighborhood. One of their number, who 
was strolling about one hundred yards from the camp, 
observed that the bed of a small ditch formed by the rain 
was of a yellowish color, and on further examination, he 
collected a number of pieces of gold from the size of a 
lentil to that of a bean. He reported this to the commander 
of the detachment, who immediately ordered a careful 
examination of the surrounding country, the result being 
the discovery of gold in all parts in greater or less quanti- 
ties. The gold lay upon the surface, scattered like grains 
of corn. The gambucinos followed its direction to the west 
to the distance of six or nine miles, where they encountered 
a natural phenomenon. The beds of all the ravines within 
a circumference of more than 12 miles was covered with 
particles of gold, hundreds of these weighing from one to 
27 marcs, and presenting the appearance of having passed 
through a furnace." — Velasco. 

After the surface gold was exhausted, shafts were sunk 
and tunnels run through a vein of calcareous stone in some 
places, and in others through a stratum of red stone, both 
of which contained gold, and from which large quantities 
were extracted. The mine was actively worked until 1803, 
when a second mine was discovered, called San Francisco, 
21 miles east of CieneguiUa, which is about 40 miles south- 
east of Altar. " This mine proved extremely rich, the gold 
being scattered about on the surface in great abundance, 
especially in the ravines. In the ravine called San Miguel- 
ena, the gold was so abundant that three, four, and even five 

48 



49 

marcs were often collected iu iive minutes ; the grains being 
the size of a bean. Large lumps were occasionally discov- 
ered. Oue fouud by a Yaqui weighed 100 ounces, and an- 
other weighed 28 marcs. Qui to vac, San Antonio, Sonoita, 
El Zone, La Basura, San Perfecto, Las Palomas, El Alamo, 
El Muerto, and Vado Seco, are gold mines discovered from 
1834 to 1844 iu the vicinity of Altar." 

Mines of Sonora. 

The mines of Sonora have been worked from time im- 
memorial. The immense number of old mines that have a 
history clouded with early traditions prove the ancient char- 
acter of the mines of Sonora. Some have been known to 
reach back one hundred years, and others have no data to 
determine the first period in their history. The number of 
abandoned mines are considerable, some of which were un- 
questionably exhausted, while others were abandoned on 
account of the ignorance of the miners on reaching ores that 
were refractory or hard to work. Right here it might be 
well to caution American capitalists against buying holes in 
the ground, solely because, at one period in their history, 
they had yielded millions. 

Most of the abandoned mines, or quite a large number of 
them, and of the richest, have been ruined by the class of 
minersof Mexico called "gambucinos, " a poor class who had 
no capital, and were in search of " bonanzas," or rich spots, 
working these solely, and filling the drifts and shafts behind 
them with rejected ores and rubbish, so that, when they 
finished a mine it was almost entirely ruined. In some in- 
stances, they have extracted the pillars of old mines of great 
value, and the walls have fallen in, thus doing an incalculable 
injury to the mines of the state. There is an old Spanish 
proverb that tersely states: "It takes another mine to work a 
mine." 

This is undoubtedly true of every mine abandoned by 
these miners. "We use strong language on account of the 
destruction following in the wake of the "gambucinos." 
The warning of Mr. Mowry to capitalists in his valuable 
work on Arizona and Sonora, we herewith quote, and 
leave its lesson with our readers. He says : "As it is desir- 
able that, in the investment of foreign capital there should 
be no error committed at the outset, than which nothing 
would retard the progress of this new mining field more; all 
persons new to the country had better leave abandoned mines 
4 



50 

alone, unless directed to them by persons long resident in 
the country, whose character and veracity are undoubted, 
and who, after the investigation of all the facts, current ac- 
counts, and traditions, have full confidence in some abandoned 
mine or other. There are, undoubtedly, many abandoned 
mines that are well worthy of attention and outlay of capital, 
but strangers are not likely to know at once which of the 
many deserted mines it will be prudent to meddle with. 
Under the present state of things, the safest investments for 
new comers will be those mines thai have bona Jide owners, for^ 
as long as a mine can be ivorked according to the custom of the 
country, it is hardly ever abandoned altogether. The owners 
are fully alive to the value of their possessions, and as they are 
already in a more or less independent position, and always 
in expectation of a sudden fortune, they are not anxious to 
sell unless induced by a fair offer. It is not advisable to enter 
into any arrangement ivith Mexican miners to furnish capital 
to open up a mine, but it is better to buy the whole at once." 

The Mexican people are shrewd and full of grandiose 
language, extravagant in speech, and due caution in taking 
their description of properties, with some allowance when 
they are anxious to sell, is of the first importance. It may 
be well to remember that where an anxiety to sell is appar- 
ent, that the purchaser will do well to make haste slowly, 
and look further for investment. The properties that are 
being worked, and where a fair examination can be made 
by reliable mining engineers, are the ones to buy. These 
are mostly not for sale, but they may be purchased on a 
liberal offer. Another way to obtain properties of value, is 
to prospect for new mines, and when a discovery is made, b}^ 
"denouncement " a title may be obtained under the laws of 
Mexico that is perfectly valid; and indeed, this is one of 
the safest means to obtain valuable mines; for the whole state 
is rich in veins of gold and silver. In the appendix may be 
found an abstract of the mining laws of Mexico, with direc- 
tions as to the obtaining of properties in the republic. 

As an instance of the unreliability to be placed on repre- 
sentations of the riches of mines that are for sale in Mexico, 
we give the following data : A company of gentlemen of 
this city were induced to open up an abandoned mine, called 
Santa Gertrudis, near Altar, which was represented by the 
parties interested, to be very rich. The vein first discovered 
was narrow, but was followed down on the assurance that it 
would become broader and richer. Extensive plans were 
entered upon; a stamp mill and engines purchased, ready to 



51 

be shipped as soon as the mine was developed sufficiently to 
warrant the erection of the works. The vein was followed 
for nearly 200 feet, and some $30,000 were expended. The 
result was unsatisfactory and the mine was abandoned; the 
representations being entirely erroneous, to say the least, 
as far as the experiment progressed. Thus, it is easily seen 
that experiments in mines in Sonora are as unsatisfactory as 
in California ; and it is well to be cautioned in advance in 
regard to abandoned mines and properties that are found up- 
on the market. We could point out other instances with simi- 
results. The 'paying mines, as a rule, are not for sale, though 
there are some exceptions, and no greater mistake can be 
made than to expect a rich mine in as old a mining state as 
Sonora, to be bought for a mere nominal sum. There are 
exceptions, but they are rare; a fair offer has to be made to 
purchase a valuable mine. 

Mining Districts of the State of Sonora, and Location 
and Description of Mines. 

The Alamos mining district is situated some 240 miles 
south-east from the port of Guaymas, on the direct road from 
that point to El Fuerte in Sinaloa, and on the road also from 
Arispe on the north to the same place, and from thence to 
Culiacan and Cosala and Mazatlan. This district is partic- 
ularly rich in silver leads. The principal mines are as fol- 
lows: The most ancient and richest mine is the Quintera, 
several millions having been taken from it since its discov- 
ery, over 100 years ago. It is of immense depth, and has 
been abandoned, and is worked occasionally by gambucinos, 
and is mostly exhausted. There are many old mines of 
whose origin we can obtain no data, their origin being known 
only by tradition. Among the Promontorio mines in the 
small Real of Promontorio, five miles north of Alamos, may 
be mentioned the Nuestra Senora de Vabranora, which was 
owned and worked by the family of Almados for the last 
century. Don Jose M. Almado reached a deposit of black 
ores at a depth of 600 feet with surprising results. The 
present owners are an English company, who purchased the 
mine from Mr. Robinson of Guaymas. The ores are reduced 
at the works situated at Las Mercedes, about two miles east 
of Alamos. The Promontorio mines contain the best ores 
in the district. The Promontorio mine, from which the 
mines were named, especially has produced exceedingly 
rich and abundant ores. The Tirite mine, to the south of 



52 

and adjoining the Promontorio, is said to be still riclier, but 
its vein is not so wide. It was formerly owned by James 
Brady of Guaymas, who reopened it by running a tunnel 
into the heart of the vein. The pillars in the old shaft and 
drifts were taken out some years ago by Pascual Gomez, 
and two of them yielded $80,000. The Dios Padre mine, 
adjoining the Promontorio on the north, was, prior to 1860, 
owned and worked by Fernando Aduana, son-in-law of Jose' 
de Almado. In August, 1860, Mr. Andrew J. Wiley from 
California purchased the mine, and associated himself with 
Messrs. W. W. Light, D. Maddox, U. F. Moulton, Skinke, 
Backus, Beard, Sanborn, Oatman, Robinson, and L. A. Gar- 
net. The mine was reopened by a shaft and yielded very 
profitably. 

The Quintera and Libertad mines are located north of the 
Dios Padre. The Pulpito, on the same lead, was discovered 
by a Mexican, who worked it secretly. In January, 1861, 
Mr. Benjamin Rountree purchased the rights of both parties 
and associated with himself Messrs. W. W. Light, Johnson, 
Price, Thos. Finley, Robert S. Stillwell, J. R. Hardenburg, 
and others, and they proceeded to open up the mine, but 
found it unprofitable and abandoned it. The Nacharama 
mine is situated nine miles from Alamos, and is one of the 
most celebrated in the district, but it was abandoned on ac- 
count of the influx of water. In 1860 the mine was pur- 
chased by Messrs. W. T. Robinson, J. G. Baldwin, Thomas 
H. Williams, Wm. S. Long, Henry Fouche, and others. 
The mine had the reputation of being rich at the time of its 
purchase. The Vista Nacacharama mine was purchased by 
Messrs. Robinson, Ira Oatman, Goggins, Bowman and White- 
side, and was called the Sacramento Company's mine. The 
Mina Grande, Europia, Iglesia, and Palomos are well spoken 
of by tradition. The first two were denounced by Michael 
Gray in January, 1860, and afterwards sold to John Heard. 
The Pietras Verdes, 15 miles north of Alamos, and Nar- 
vayez, in the Promontorio, are filled with water. 

There are three large haciendas for the reduction of 
metals in the city of Alamos, called La Aurora, La Ubalama, 
and Las Cabras. 

The district or Real of Minas Nuevas is located about two 
leagues west of Alamos, and contains many rich mines, 
among them, San Jos^ Ubalama, which is situated six miles 
from Alamos, and was owned by W. J. Hill and E. B. 
Johnson, who erected machinery at the mine to work it. 
Tradition spoke of it as exceedingly rich. The Descubri- 



53 

dora^ Eosario de Talpa, Sambono, and others, are located 
in this district. 

The Rosario de Talpa and the Sambono were once suc- 
cessfully worked by Mr. Robinson of Guaymas, and T. Rob- 
inson Bours, formerly of Stockton, but who now resides at 
Alamos. The San Jose mine is situated six miles from 
Alamos, in this district, and was owned by "W". J. Hill and E. 
B. Johnson, in 1861, who placed machinery at the mine to 
develop its riches, which tradition declared to be fabulous. 
There are many other mines in the vicinity, as we have only 
mentioned the principal ones, and the district is unquestion- 
ably one of the richest in Sonora. 

The mine called Balvanecla, situated in Promontorio, for- 
merly belonged to Jose Maria Almado. It was formerly 
rich, and yielded handsomely up to 1861, though the water 
flowing into it caused such trouble and expense that it was 
afterward abandoned. La Europita, in the Promontorio, 
was worked by Don Manuel Salido up to 1801, with good re- 
sults. 

Lead is found in the ores of the Promontorio mines, which 
may be used for smelting, although most of the ore is re- 
duced by mills. La Europita was once one of the richest 
mines of the district, and with Quintera, produced an im- 
mense amount of silver. These two mines gave to Alamos 
its greatest celebrity. The former was worked up to 1861. 

Although Aduaua is generally included in the district of 
Alamos, yet it possesses a group of mines that are distin- 
guished from the Promontorio mines. The Aduana is sit- 
uated about three miles west of Alamos. In this district, 
which, with that of the Promontorio, comprises an area of 
eight leagues, with the face of a small mountain range in- 
cluded on the south, are located many old and new mines 
over the whole area, which Velasco pronounces, that "with- 
out exaggeration, there is not a hand's breadth of the soil 
which does not contain some vein of the precious metal." La 
Cotera and Santo Domingo, and I^acacharama and La Liber- 
tad in the Aduaua, were all worked up to 1861. Calesa and 
Los Cangrejos are full of water. 

There are five haciendas in Aduana for the reduction of 
ore — one in Talajiossa called Zarragoitas, La Espinosa, and 
the old hacienda of Promontorio; also, two in MinasNuevas; 
making eleven in all. 

The district of Alamos contributes very largely to the ex- 
port of silver from Sonora, part of which is exported from 
the port of Santa Cruz de Mayo, south of Alamos, on the 



54 

coast, distant about 100 miles, which is said to be one of the 
favorite points for smugghng bullion out of the state, while 
the larger proportion is carried to Guaymas. 

San Ildefonso de la Cieneguilla, 

This district is located 'in the western part of Sonora and 
north-west of Hermosillo about 100 miles, and south-east of 
Altar the same distance. Scarcely any region equals this in 
its number of veins of gold and silver. Its first mine, called 
Descubridora, was discovered four years after the first pla- 
cers, to which we have referred under the heading of " The 
Discovery of Gold." This mine yielded abundant quantities 
of silver ores, the yield of the poorest being five to seven 
and the best 12 to 15 marcs to the " bulto " of three cargas 
(900 lbs.). Its owner received from it, in less than four 
years, $2,000,000. Fifty small establishments for crushing 
ores were erected and in constant operation, from which 
large profits were realized. The vein was crossed, after the 
mine had been worked for five years, by a species of hard 
rock, called " caballo," which was again repeated. This 
discouraged its owner, and the pillars were removed, which 
yielded $500,000, and supports of strong timber exchanged 
for them: but the gambucinos soon left the mine in ruins. 
Many other mines were discovered in the neighborhood, 
but none so rich or abundant in ores. Only one exceeded it 
in the quantity of its ores, viz: the Cerro Colorado, in the 
Cieueguita district, six leagues to the east of Cieneguilla, on 
the right of the road to the placers of San Francisco. 

From the appendix of the work entitled "Sonora," a 
translation of Francisco Velasco's great work, b}? Mr. Wm, 
F. Nye, published in 1861, we quote the following interest- 
ing fact in relation to the Cerro Colorado mine. He saj^s : 
" The Cerro Colorado mine is situated some eight or nine 
leagues from the city of Alamos, on the bank of the Mayo 
River, and derives its name from the reddish color of the 
mountain in which it is located. It was formerly owned by 
Castro and Don Manuel Salida, and afterwards by Dr. W. J. 
Hill, of Alamos, who sold one-half his interest some few 
months since for $12,000. Messrs. J. 8. Garwood, E. D. 
Wheeler, Michael Gvay, and others of San Francisco, were 
the fortunate purchasers. The last owner of this mine, Don 
Manuel Salida, took from it more than a million of dollars, 
and, at the time of his death, gave orders to blow the mine 
up, which was accordingly carried into effect by his peons. 



65 

The writer visited the mine in company with Dr. Hill; but,, 
on account of its dilapidated condition, could not explore it. 
At a depth of 70 feet is a chamber 20 feet in diameter and 
25 feet high, the walls of which, impregnated with virgin 
silver, glittered like diamonds by the hght of a solitary can- 
dle. In working the mines of this district, it is not unusual 
to discover spots of exceeding richness, called by Mexicans 
' bonanzas,' and from one of these, from two to three hun- 
dred thousand dollars are frequently extracted." 

Gold Mining Districts. 

The district of San Francisco is located seven leagues to 
the east of Ildefonso de la Cieneguilla, and was discovered 
Oct. 4th, 1803, by Teodoro Salazar, who was searching for 
a mine of which he had received notice. This mine proved 
extremely rich, the gold being scattered about on the sur- 
face in great abundance, especially in the ravines. The 
ravine called San Miguelena was the richest spot, and the 
grains were coarse, being about the size of a beau. Large 
lumps were occasionally found, one of which weighed 100 
ounces, and another 28 marcs. In portions of this mineral 
region the gold was mixed with white quartz, which led to a 
ledge of very rich gold-bearing quartz. Here a mine was 
opened by Teodoro Salazar, and he occasionally struck ex- 
tensive pockets that were very rich. The mine was eventu- 
ally abandoned, and another found one league distant from 
San Francisco, not so rich as the former, but yielding very 
fine gold, of 22 and 23 carats fine. In the Sierra to the 
south, veins were found near the creek of San Bias, a small 
town near the northern border of Sinaloa. The water in the 
creek having failed, this mine was abandoned. The annual 
yield, on an average, of the mine of San Francisco, Velasco 
puts at from 81,000,000 to 15,000,000. Quito vac, San An- 
tonio, Sonoita, El Zoiie, La Basura, San Perfecto, Las Palo- 
mas, El Alamo, El Muerto, and Vado Seco, were the gold 
mines discovered from 1833*to 1844. Since that time, many 
other mines have been found, bearing both gold and silver. 
The great drawback to the mines of San Francisco, which 
are so rich in gold, is the scarcity of water, which has been 
brought from the river Arituava, 21 miles distant, and com- 
manded fabulous prices. If the waters of the river were 
conducted to the placers, or artesian wells sunk and reser- 
voirs formed, the mines would yield immensely. 

The district of Mulatos is located to the north-east of 



56 

Alamos, and nearly due west of Jesus Maria in Chihuahua, 
upon the slope of the Sierra Madre towards the gulf, and is 
called the Mineral of San Jos^ de Mulatos, which was dis- 
covered in 1806. Two gold mines were here found, from 
which were taken several thousand marcs of gold, 2'1 carats 
fine. The region is located near the eastern border of the 
state, in the pass of Mulatos, about 70 leagues, or 210 miles, 
from Hermosillo. It is said that several millions were ex- 
tracted from these mines. The gold was first found in a 
small stream which descends to the river below. Adjoining, 
this ravine and near the placers, three elevated crests were 
discovered, one of them over one hundred varas in height, 
which were intersected in all directions by small threads or 
veins of gold-bearing white earth, or rotten quartz, that were 
so rich that the ore of inferior quality was sold at $12 and 
$15 per arroba (25 pounds), while the rcihest sold for $200. 
These crests have been extensively worked. The gold is 
nearly pure, the lowest ore being 23 quilates, while it some- 
times reached 3i- grains. A number of Indians at first work- 
ed the vein by being suspended by ropes from the side of 
the rocks from the crests above and picking out the earth 
with wooden sticks and knives. The mines were abandoned 
some years ago, but have since been denounced by an Amer- 
ican company, who are working them so profitably, we un- 
derstand, that they have lately refused $1,000,000 for them. 
The ores are reduced by an extensive stamp-mill, located on 
the Mulatos River, below the mine. This river has some- 
times been called the Aribechi and Papigochi. 

The district of San Xavier is distant from the port of 
Guaymas in a north-east direction, and about the same dis- 
tance from Hermosillo, approachable from both points by an 
excellent wagon road. This is one of the oldest and richest 
mineral districts of the etate. There are many mines situ- 
ated within a radius of turee miles — namely, Los Brouces, 
owned by Don Alsua of Guaymas; Las Cruzecitas, Las Aguas, 
Senor, Las Cum.bres, La Division, La Kaguilla, La Barranca, 
Las Animas, La Sierra, and many others. Among the most 
important, Los Bronces may be mentioned, which is work- 
ed by Don Matias Alsua of Guaymas, who has erect- 
ed extensive reduction works, with stamps, barrels, fur- 
naces, etc. His ores are worked by the German or Frey- 
burg process, and the mine has yielded about $1,000 per 
day. ISTear this mine is located the La Barranca, in which a 
vein of coal was found nine feet in thickness. It is supposed 
to be anthracite, but this is denied by some experts, who 



57 

ciaim it is more of the nature of bituminous coal. We ex- 
amiued a piece of this same coal, and it appeared to us to be 
similar to the bituminous coal of Pennsylvania. 

About 200 yards above the Los Bronces mine is situated 
the Las Cruzecitas, which is owned by the Las Cruzecitas 
Miuin^^ Company. It has been extensively developed, and 
ten tons have been raised daily ; and when further devel- 
oped, will yield much greater quantities. The vein, which 
is particularly well defined, increases in width and richness 
as it descends ; and at a depth of 145 feet, the vein was nine 
feet wide. The ore of the pillars is very rich ; while that 
from the mine averaged over $150 per ton, all through. 
The " Petanque " has rich sulphurets of silver, which are 
extracted from the lower excavations, and assay over $3,000 
per ton. The Company have erected reduction works at the 
mines. La Naguilla is situated on the highest hill in this 
region, in sight of the main road ; its ores were formerly 
abundant, and their "ley " in silver, ten marcs to the carga. 
It however filled with water, and although an attempt was 
made to work it out, it wa,s abandoned upon reaching a 
" caballo. " Las Animas is also one of the old mines, and is 
now choked with earth ; the " ley ".of its ores was four or 
five marcs to four arrobas. Its vein was narrow, but con- 
tained an abundance of ferruginous ore, which, though re- 
jected by the miners in former times, yield three to four 
marcs of silver to the carga. The amalgamating ores are 
also abundant, and of about the same " ley.'' In Los Afur- 
nos, the vein is half a vara in breadth, and was profitably 
worked by Castillo. The mines of La Grande were equally 
rich with the others. The rest of the ores of San Xavier are 
smelting ores, or reducible by fire, with some exceptions. 
Enormous quantities of silver were remitted to the City of 
Mexico from this district, and prove it to have been very 
rich. 

" The mine of Zubiate is situated eleven leagues (33 
miles) south-east of Ilermosillo. It was discovered in the 
year 1813. Its first owners were not able to pay their ex- 
penses, and sold out to two persons called Monge and 
Muuoz, who derived a handsome profit from a mine hitherto 
worthless. Muiioz, having acquired suflicient wealth, sold 
his interest to Francisco Montevideo, who continued the op- 
eration, in company with Monge, until the death of the 
latter, who left a large fortune. Montevideo then becEime 
sole owner of the mine," and worked it up to the time of 
his death, leaving it to his sou, M. Montevideo, ex-Governoi- 



58 

of Sonora, who is now in this city. " Its average ley did not 
exceed five to six marcs to three cargas of 300 lbs. each, or 
about from $36 to $45 per ton ; but occasionally ores are 
found which yield two to three marcs ($3.20 to each marc) 
l^er arroba of 25 lbs. each, or from $480 to $720 per ton. 
"Water flows into it, and for some time the sole profits of the 
owner were derived from furnishing supplies to his work- 
men." Governor Montevideo informs us, that since the 
publication of Francisco Velasco's work on Sonora, from 
which we quote the foregoing, that he has found the mine 
to become very profitable, and it now assays from $80 up to 
$1,000 per ton, having reached ores on a lower level that 
are very rich. This mine is for sale, and can be purchased 
of Governor Montevideo. He also informs us that $12,000,- 
000 have been extracted from the mine since its discovery, 
or in a little over 67 years. 

San Antonio de la Huerta. 

This district is located about 15 miles from San Xavier, 
and contains La Minas Prietas, Musidora, and other valuable 
mines, both of gold and silver. The Minas Prietas was 
purchased of Mr. R. 1). Johnson, of Guaymas, by the Jan- 
niu Bros., of this city, and sold to a company in New York. 
The point of location on the maps of this mine is erroneous, 
and should be at the point marked Haygame, about 35 miles 
south-east of Hermosillo. A new 40-stamp mill is being 
erected for this mine. There was an old 10-stamp mill on 
it, which, with arastras, were used to reduce the ore. 

Cieneguita District. 

The following official report on the Mineral de la Ciene- 
guita, of Robert L. D'Aumaille, official assayer of Sonora, 
is copied from the valuable work of Mr. Mowry, " on Sonora 
and Arizona"; our object being to give all the information 
available on the mines of Sonora, and also within the limits 
of the states of Chihuahua, Durango, and Sinaloa. On the 
mines of this district, his report reads as follows : " About 
300 yards from the hacienda is the mine La Carjona, of 
trifling depth. The metal is plombiferous, vein one foot in 
width, and assays $16 to the 100 pounds. The water from 
the rivulet adjoining, has filled the shaft, which is not deep. . 
Two miles distant in same direction, lies the hill that con- 
tains the veins of La Chipiona, La Colorada, La Plomosa, 



59 

and another fallen in, whose very name has perished. The 
veins have been opened in many parts by the Spaniards, who 
content themselves almost invariably with sinking shafts for 
the extraction of the superior decomposed ores, abandoning 
the mine on reaching sulphurets, from ignorance of the proc- 
ess for the extraction of silver. In these sulphurets, and 
below the old galleries are situated the present workings. 
La Colorada, on the north side of the spur, is a portion of the 
Veta Madre (or main vein.) The workings are dry and 
firm; the galleries 50 feet in length and 45 in width. An- 
other shaft, 22 feet, is opened 80 feet farther down the mount- 
ain, where the ores are uncovered to the same width. The 
vein in the lower places is about 18 feet in width, in parts 
30; running north and north-west, with an inclination to the 
south-east of about 15 degrees, an excellent course and dip 
in Mexican mines. The assay was $172 silver, per ton, and 
traces of gold. La Chipiona is also upon the Veta Madre; 
vein same direction and dip as La Colorada; shafts, two, 30 
feet apart; depth 30 feet, and partly full of water. The 
vein is 20 to 36 inches; same depth, and quality of metal 
uniform. The ores are more difficult of reduction, being 
bisulphurets of iron, with a compound sulphuret of silver, 
lead, iron, and copper; by the German process, assays 160 
ounces per ton. The ores of La Colorada by same proc- 
ess, gave 212 to 320 ounces. There is not half the 
superficial excavations of the ancient mines, which have 
been cleaned out from this vein, and the falling in of the 
labores. The vein can be traced 250 yards, across the crest 
of the hill, up to the mouth of the La Colorada. Above the 
main vein is a cross-vein of 4 to 6 inches, cutting it nearly 
at right angles. The ore is said to yield 318 ounces of silver 
per ton. Nine hundred feet distant, in a straight line, in a 
spur of the same cerro, is the adit of La Plomosa; the upper 
workings being badly planned, have fallen in frona the pressure 
of rubbish in the old drifts, and the miners have driven a level 
in the solid rock 150 feet farther down. The ores are ar- 
gentiferous galenas, with a matrix of stratified ' calishe,' 
and are said to yield 18 per cent, of lead, and 96 ounces sil- 
ver, per ton, up to 190 ounces. Both this vein and La Chi- 
piona run across the valley and strike the opposite mountain. 
Old mining shafts are seen all the way across at difi:erent 
points. These mines can all be drained by a tunnel, as the 
Chipiona debouches upon an abrupt desient, by many hun- 
dred feet. The walls are firm and vein regular, presenting 
every indication of permanence. A quarter of a mile south- 



60 

west of the Yerba Biiena, are the mines of Los Tajos. The 
hill-side is covered with the buried workings of the ancients, 
and the superior position of the vein is in a vfery precarious 
condition. The vein is something like one-half a yard in 
width, with a heterogeneous medley of ores. It runs com- 
pletely through the mountain, as very considerable works 
are visible on the opposite side; but whether ' en metales,' 
or not is unknown. 

" The ores are said to yield 60 ounces per ton, but they 
are loaled with titaniferous and zinciferous metals. La 
Descomulgada is situated about a league west of south-west 
of the Yerba Buena. Its matrix is a very hard, silicious 
rock, which crumbles with great rapidity when exposed to 
air and moisture. The vein is said to be wide, and the su- 
perficial ores easily worked, costing $1.00 per 300 lbs., and 
to be easy of reduction. 

" La Yerba Buena is a modern mine, said to have been 
very rich. The mouths have fallen in a few hundred yards 
from the Yerba Buena, on the road to the Descomulgada. 
Nothing more is known concerning it. 

" Las Ostimuris, on the road to Yerba Buena, about half 
way from the Cieneguita, has two open mouths, and is full 
of water, the drifts running under the brook. Mr. Monge 
says it was abandoned on the outbreak of the Opatas, and as 
the shafts were shallow, the vein wide, and the ores yield- 
ing 450 oz. per ton, he entered into a contract with a skill- 
ful- miner and put up whims and machinery for drain- 
age. His partner died just as they were approaching com- 
pletion; the Apaches drove off their animals; and, being ig- 
norant of mining, he abandoned the mine. 

" La Prieta is on the rancho of Matarchi, about six miles 
east of Cieneguita. The vein is from four to six feet wide. 
The opening is merely a trial pit. The ores of the outcrop 
are a melange of different sulphurets, heavily charged with 
copper. 

" El Potrero, 24 miles distant, is said to be an immense 
'clavo' of volcanic origin, and unknown extent, at the in- 
tersection of two veins. The ore is without alloy of silver, 
but contains much oxide of lead and spar. It forms an ex- 
cellent flux for the ores of La Prieta, and Los Tajos. The 
cost of carriage is the only expense, 

" La Viruela, east half a mile from the site of La Armar- 
gosa, is a lofty hill, 'from which large quantities of gold have 
been extracted, but the whole hill has fallen in. 

" La Armagosa, and the rivulet which runs beneath El Re- 



61 

alito, are constantly searched for gold. The water of the 
creek is not sufficiently abundant for machinery, and an ex- 
amination was made of La Armagosa, one-quarter mile east, 
where a stream was found that is permanent and may be 
conducted by a tunnel. It furnishes a considerable volume 
of water, with a natural fall of 100 feet within a space of 
100 yards in its own valley. 

" Yerba Buena is three and a half miles south-east from the 
real, four and a half from La Chipiona, and four from Los 
Tajos. This district is located near Sahuaripa, about 50 
miles south-east. The river is the Arroyo de los Ostimuris, 
which is permanent ten mouths, and sufficient to turn the 
wheels during the remainder of the year. Wood is abund- 
ant, and consists of oak, pine, juniper and ash. Pasturage, 
everywhere. Animals are said to fatten all the year round. 
Salt can be purchased at from <|8 to $10 per carga of 300 
lbs.; wheat, $6 per fanega. Freight from Guaymas, $80 to $90 
per ton; from Sahuaripa, $3 per carga. Cattle are purchased 
from $10 to $15; hides, $1.00 each; mules and horses, dear; 
powder of the country, $7.00 per 25 lbs; flour, $7 per ar- 
roba. " The ores are hard and require blasting, but^ as seen 
before, are very rich. 

" The Real of the Cieneguita embraces the mines known as 
La Chipiona, La Colorada, La Cajona, La Prieta, and the 
vein of copper in Matarchi, La Descomulgada and Los Ta- 
jos, La Viruela, and El Realito, San Rafael, Ostimuris, Yer- 
ba Buena, and El Potrero. All of these mines are within a 
radius of three miles. 

'' The principal vein appears to be that of La Chipiona. 
The origin of the real is unknown. The general belief is 
that it is the long-lost Real of Tayopa, famous in the early 
Spanish annals. The ores of the Chipiona, Colorada, and 
others, are refractory, being mostly hard ores and sulphurets. 
The titles to the mines, except those of El Potrero or La 
Prieta, and the copper vein in Matarchi, are on the ranchos 
of La Yglesia, a fine grazing estate of eighteen square miles 
in extent, belonging to and in the occupancy of Don Jose 
Yrenco Monge. The title is said to be perfect and undis- 
puted, a Spanish grant of Carlos III. It is wooded and 
watered, and contains sufficient arable land. The rancho of 
Matarchi, which bounds it on the westward, is a beautiful 
pine forest, with some excellent cultivated .land, containing 
nine square miles, well watered, and is likewise a Spanish 
grant of the last century. It contains the veins of La Prieta 
and the outcrop of copper. 



62 

" The mines Los Tajos, La Descomulgada, and El Realito, 
with four pertenencias, El Potrero, and La Viruella, are each 
the extent of La Chipiona's and La Colorada's possession, 
which was given by the Prefect of Sahuaripa on the 13th of 
September; is 1,800 feet in length; width, 600 feet on La 
Plomosa, and 1,350 feet in width, including all the present 
workings in the three mines. The sites called El Potrero, 
La Armagosa, La Cieneguita, and Yerba Buena, were de- 
nounced as " Haciendas de Benefico," or position for reduc- 
tion works. The Real of Cieneguita is situated in a pretty 
little dell, embosomed among lofty mountains, almost at the 
foot of the Sierra de San Ignacio, and partly embraced by 
the unbroken ranges of the great Sierra Madre. These 
mines are now worked by a 30-stamp mill, and are produc- 
ing immense profits. 

"It is distant, perhaps, by the road, 42 miles south-east of 
Sahuaripa, nine miles south-east of Tarachi, and 72 miles west 
of Mulatos. The real contains about 20 acres of cultivated 
ground, and is supplied by a spring and perpetual brook, 
which traverses its center. The climate is mild. In winter, 
the snow falls occasionally two feet, and ice forms two inches 
thick. The road leads from Sahuaripa through mountain 
passes. From Aribechi to the real it is all mountain, except 
the plain of Las Cazadores, in the rancho Aoyua Blanca, 
and the valley of the Rio de Ostimuris, from which the road 
runs from Santa Fe to Tarachi. A considerable portion of 
the real is covered by the foundations of houses and rains 
of smelting works, or immense piles of scoriae and rubbish, 
proving incontestably to the practical eye the vast extent of 
the ancient mining operations." And another proof, we 
might add, of the former richness of these mines. "We give 
this extended description, in order to show how an aban- 
doned mine looks to the traveler as well as the mining 
engineers, although these same mines have since been 
reopened and worked by a 30-stamp mill, as before stated. 

We are indebted to Mr. John A. Robinson, of this city, 
for the following : 

" Some fifteen miles north-east from the famous gold mine 
of Mulatos, lies a cluster of mines known as ' Mineral de la 
Cieneguita.' There are some fifteen mines in all ; the prin- 
cipal of them are the Chipiona, the Colorada, and the Plo- 
mosa ; the two first being very rich in silver and gold, and 
the last in lead and silver. The country surrounding offers 
every facility for mining and reduction works. An abund- 
ance of water, heavy forests of pine, hemlock, various species 



63 

of oak, jumper, etc. Building-stone and fire-clay in the im- 
mediate vicinity, with pasturage for the animals. The 
mines are at present worked on a small scale by some Ger- 
man gentlemen ; but parties are now examining them with 
the view of establishing reduction works on an extensive 
scale by the lixiviation process. These mines are extreme- 
ly rich in ' ley,' and abundant in ores. Some sixty miles 
to the east of the above are situated those extremely rich 
copper mines called ' Huacarbo, ' in the Barranca de Tarra- 
rique. Here also the facilities for working are great. The 
river Yaqui runs immediately at the foot of these im- 
mense locles ; and the country is thickly covered by heavy 
timjper. The Yaqui River, in places, runs over the copper- 
vein, leaving the ores in sight for a long distance. Both of 
the foregoing mining districts were fully explored by Robert 
L. D'Aumaille, a most famous mining expert, chemist and 
amalgamist, sent there by Don Juan A. Robinson, formerly 
United States Consul for G-uaymas, Sonora, and at present 
residing in this city. B'Aumaille reports that the copper 
vein is intersected in different places, by narrow gold veins 
of a very rich 'ley.'" 

The district of Babicanora was discovered at the end of 
the last century, eight leagues south-east of Arispe and four 
from Sonoquipe, in the Sierra, running north and south. It 
was, at one time, very rich, and had a hacienda for the re- 
duction of ores below Sonoquipe, one mile from the bank of 
the creek. It was abandoned by its owners some years ago, 
until Mr. Hunter, an American, lately obtained possession 
of two of the mines. One is called JNIendoza, which has a 
vein three feet wide, and assays $80 per ton in silver. The 
other is Santa Ana, and has a vein one vara in width, (33 
inches) with an assay similar to the other. Mr. Hunter has 
ere'cted a ten-stamp mill, and is now working the mines 
profitably. 

The hacienda of Gov. Pesquiera, called Las Delicias, is 
situated about 20 miles south-west from Arispe, and con- 
sists of about 30,000 acres of good land, about one-fifth of 
which is first-class agricultural land, and being in the 
neighborhood or west of the Sonora River, the soil is some- 
what of the same nature, and produces wheat, corn and 
other cereals, as other lands on the Sonora River. The bal- 
ance is good grazing land. The Santa Elena mine is located 
about four and a half miles from the hacienda, on a ridge of 
mountains, and is owned by Gov. Pesquiera who erected a 
ten-stamp mill at the hacienda. 



64 

It is not in working order, and is fast going to pieces. 
The mine has been mostly worked by arastras, and pro- 
duced, in one year, $200,000, but has never been properly 
worked. The best ore assays $5 per ounce bullion, gold and 
silver. The shaft is about 200 feet in depth, with a varying 
vein, sometimes reaching 15 feet in width. The mine is dry, 
with walls of porphyry and quartzite. 

The Curcurpe district also contains many mines, among 
which may be mentioned the ancient mine of El Tajo, which 
is now full of water and in a ruinous condition, having been 
destroyed by the gambucinos. 

The Santa Teresa de Jesus mining district is located 69 
miles south of the boundary line of the United States, on the 
northern frontier of the State of Sonora, and 36 miles irom 
Magdalena; the latter being only about 140 miles from 
Tucson. 

We copy from a report of Mr. L. Jannin on the mines of 
this district, which has just been published, the following : 
" Leaving Cucurpe, and passing by the cultivated fields of 
its inhabitants, we find the road to the mines leading up the 
San Miguel River, sometimes emerging into an open plain. 
After following the course of this river some twelve miles, 
and passing El Pintor and the deserted Pueblo de Dolores, 
the road leads us over table-lands and meadows, the former 
adorned with oak and ash trees, the latter covered with 
waving grass, until we reach a broad belt of thickly wooded 
land, where the San Miguel first makes its appearance in 
the dry season. From this point the river always contains 
running water. In the rainy season it rushes violently 
along, sometimes overflowing its banks, but in the dry season 
it floats along tamely, scarcely covering its bed. All the land 
between Cucurpe and this point is of the richest descrip- 
tion. It is unsurpassed in fertility by any portion of Sonora, 
and grain of all kinds can be raised without the slightest 
trouble. 

In former times, the whole valley was populated, and the 
number of cultivated fields and the numerous herds of graz- 
ing cattle proclaimed the wealth of the inhabitants. But 
the continued incursions of the Apaches since 1832, by 
driving off the unresisting inhabitants and gathering the 
harvests they had planted, have depopulated and ruined the 
country. Deserted ranches are met along the road. IsTo 
one lives here. No one dares to plant grain, and, as it is 
here, so it is also throughout the northern part of the State. 
Leaving the belt of wooded land that I have mentioned, the 



65 

road still takes us over raeadows and table lands, up the 
valley of the San Miguel and toward its source, the Canon 
de Santa Teresa, a distance of 15 miles. Here, lovv rano-es 
of hills, isolated peaks, and broken country, becoming more 
and more frequent, herald our approach to a mountain 
range, and soon we are in the canon, with steep hills on 
each side. 

The range of mountains in the foot-hills, in which are 
the mines of Santa Teresa, is known by the name of Sierra 
Azul, and its culminating peak is the Cerro Azul, which 
towers high above all the range, forming a most prominent 
object for a distance of over forty miles. The general course 
of the range is north and south, but spurs of the Cerro ex- 
tend in all directions. The country is mountainous in the 
extreme. There are no table-lands, no valleys, and no open 
space of any extent, nor are the ranges of foot-hills contin- 
uous, but are broken up by side ravines and canons, down 
which, in rainy seasons, the water finds its way to the vari- 
ous arroyos. These arroyos form the circuitous roads by 
which one point is reached from another. The position of 
the Mineral de Santa Teresa is correctly indicated by Col- 
onel de Fleury's late map of Sonora. From it can be seen 
the relative position of the Mineral to the neighboring 
pueblos, owing to the mountains around it. The only broad 
road leading to the mines is the one I have described. All 
others are, and can only be, foot-trails. The mines are 
upon three distinct veins, known as the Trinidad, San An- 
tonio, and the Santa Biviana. The openings on the Trini- 
dad and San Antonio are in the Real de Santa Teresa, while 
those on the Santa Biviana vein are in a neighboring real 
of the same name. 

The Real de Santa Teresa is approached by a canon of 
that name, and is situated some three miles from its outlet. 
The bed of this canon is a dry arroyo, and its sides are 
formed by a range of foot-hills rising up several hundred 
feet, and inclined towards the bed at an angle varying from 
50 to 70 degrees. The arroyo varies in width from 50 to 
300 yards, and forms the only road to the mines. In the 
rainy season, the water flowing down from the various ra- 
vines and from the Salto, (the source of the San Miguel) 
fills the arroyo and renders freighting in wagons difficult, 
but does not impede transit by mules and pack-trains. At 
the time of my visit it was perfectly dry, and generally re- 
mains so during nine months of the year. 

The Canon de Santa Teresa has a generally north-easterly 
5 



66 

direction, although subject to many turns. In the neighbor- 
hood of the mines, its direction is as indicated, and the vein 
pursues a nearly parallel course. The mountain mass of 
this Mineral — in fact, the whole range — is a hard, dark-blue 
hmestone, distinctly stratified, and dipping to the east at an 
ande of 50 degrees. Its strike is nearly north and south. 
Tlie course of the veins is contrary to the stratification of 
the limestone, which forms its walls; and they have all the 
appearance of being true fissure veins. The walls are gen- 
erally firm and enduring. 

The Trinidad vein crops out at various places on the 
northerly slope of the canon. Its general chrection is north- 
east by south-west ; but it changes its course with the slope 
of the hills, and at places it is heaved by faults and cross- 
veins. The outcroppings can be traced at various heights 
above the head of the canon, until it reaches the opening 
called El Arroyo. Here the vein leaves the northerly slope 
of the cailon, crossing over the arroyo in a diagonal direc- 
tion, and finally emerges on the opposite slope, still preserv- 
ing the same general direction. The San Antonio vein, on 
the other hand, is entirely on the southerly slope of the canon. 
Its general direction is north-east by north, but it also 
changes its course with the slopes of the hills. These two 
veins converge toward one another ; but although they have 
been followed for many aweary mile, their point of junction 
has not been discovered. The general appearance of the out- 
cropping is the same in the two veins, with some slight local 
diflerences. It is a hard, compact quartz, sometimes thickly 
impregnated with peroxyd of manganese, and at others, 
merely colored by its presence. It is seldom found with a 
honey-comb structure. At places the veins outcrop boldly 
to the height of several feet, and at others, disappear be- 
neath the soil. The width of the vein does not remain con- 
stant ; but the general average may be put down at two-and- 
a-half to three feet. The San Antonio vein shows somewhat 
larger at the various openings than does the Trinidad ; but 
the ore in the latter is found more uniformly distributed. 
Wherever the veins outcrop, openings have been made. 
On the Trinidad vein there are six in number ; and on the 
San Antonio, there are seven. The diff'erent mines opened, 
are the El Loreto, that assayed, at a depth of 30 feet, $10 
to $80 per ton ; vein small at surface, broadens out to 2i feet 
in the shaft; angle of inclination, 40 deg. north-west. La 
Cruz lies north-east of the Loreto ; depth of shaft, 30 feet ; 
assay, f 70 to $90, in first opening ; second, depth 60 feet ; 



67 

vein 2 to 2^ feet thick ; dips about 45 cleg.; assay, same as 
former. La Falcla assayed $118 per ton. The Trinidad 
is the principal mine ; shaft 150 feet deep, with some of 
the pillars extracted ; some left standing, that would as- 
say over $80 per ton, while the ore in the lower gallery 
assays $150. Water comes into the lower levels. The 
miners, in abandoning the property, have of course left no 
rich deposit in the mines ; but the evidences are that an 
abundance of rich ore must have been extracted. The Ar- 
royo miue was said to be very rich, and is 70 feet deep ; 
filled with water, but could be cleared for about $600. The 
San Francisco is 30 feet deep ; the ore sometimes occurs in 
large bunches and pockets (or " bonanzas") ; sometimes in 
small nodules, and sometimes disseminated throughout the 
mass in minute particles. The vein is never free from metal. 
The San Antonio vein has seven openings, viz., San Pedro, 
La Burra, Consolacion, San Antonio, Corazou de Maria, Santa 
Gertrudis, and Las Animas. Of the first three I can say but 
little in their present state, as they all need clearing out. 
The Consolacion is in a better state of preservation than the 
other two, and a fair average ore can be taken from it. The 
San Antonio enjoys a great reputation; but at present it is 
in a dilapidated condition. The miue is filled with rubbish. 
Li the Corazon de Maria the miners left nothing rich in 
sight. Santa Gertrudis contains good ores, and will assay 
$200 to $500 per ton. The average value of all I saw at the 
mouth is $270 per ton. The others will average $80 per ton." 
By comparing the locations on the map of Col. Fleury on 
Sonora, Siualoa, Chihuahua, and Durango, it will be ob- 
served that these mines, of which we have reproduced a con- 
densed description from Mr. Jannin's report, are located but 
a short distance, about forty miles, south-east of Santa Cruz, 
and in the neighborhood of the richest mineral and agricult- 
ural region of the state, outside of the rich lands of the 
Yaqui River. 

La Alameda is situated in the Nacameri district, 21 miles 
west of the pueblo of ]!^acameri. This mine was discovered 
in 1835, and was once extensively worked. The mines of 
this district are all of silver, with a very good "ley," about 
$60 per ton. 

Batuco also possesses some mines. 

The Rio Chico district is in the south-western part of the 
state, 120 miles from Hermosillo, near the Yaqui River, is one 
of the most ancient mineral regions of Sonora, and in the 
last century produced great quantities of gold and silver.. 



QS 

Placers of gold were also discovered here. The gambuci- 
Dos are still working some of the mines. El Aguaja is an 
old mineral region of the last century. Its principal mines 
are Guillamena, Ubarbol, and La Grande. These mines are 
mostly abandoned, though worked by gambuciuos. Suaque 
contains many paines of gold and silver, which are but little 
worked. La Trinidad is one of the oldest mineral regions 
of the State, situated at the base of the Sierra Madre, on a 
branch of the river Mayo. Its area is comprised almost en- 
tirely of mines, the principal ones of which are worked by 
Mr. Alsua of Guaymas, by a modern stamp-mill, who is tak- 
ing out in bulHon, monthly, about $100,000. This district 
is reached by a road from Sahuaripa through Babicanora, 
south, on the Bapepito Eiver, a branch of the Yaqui ; thence 
to Conichi, Ouava, Rio Chico, 'Nurj ; thence north-east to 
Caraja, San Mcolas, Santa Rosa, and Trinidad. 

The district of Bacuachi is in the northern part of the 
State, as well as the copper mines of La Cananea. The gold 
found in this district is coarse, and pieces were found weigh- 
ing 25 marcs. In fact, the whole of this region is covered 
with veins of gold and silver, and are as yet undeveloped. 
We have called especial attention to this district in another 
place. 

Among the old mines, we may mention the Cajon, six 
leagues from the San Francisco placers and twelve 
from Cieneguilla, and those of the hacienda of Santa Rosa, 
near Cajon, which yielded great quantities of silver from 
1798 to 1802. The average proportion of the ley of the 
best or picked ores was six, eight and twelve marcs to the 
arroba; of the poore^ or second class, two to four marcs. 
There was a scarcity of ore in the Santa Rosa mines, on ac- 
count of the hardness and narrowness of the veins. In the 
mines of San Francisco, water is scarce to the extreme, and 
could not be obtained nearer than 21 miles, and sold in 
the dry season at f 1 per barrel. The timber, also, in the vi- 
cinity, is unfit for building. 

These mines are very rich, but the expense is too great to 
work them profitably. The mines of Vado Seco, to the 
north of San Iguacio Pueblo, on the road to Tucson, are re- 
ported to be rich, as well as the famous placer of Sobia, 
on the main road to the city of Alamos, half way from Bar- 
royaca. 

The Cajon district contains a group of some three or four 
mines, and are all owned by a New York company. The 
nephew of General Magruder is the superintendent, and 



69 

owns one-half interest in the mines. The mine contains gold 
and silver-bearing quartz, which assays, on an average, about 
$65 to $70 per ton. The deepest shaft is only down about 
125 feet. Rich spots are occasionally found in the vein, but 
after they get down a certain distance, the veins commence 
to pinch out. Some of the veins have entirely disappeared. 
The mine has, however, paid well, as they have taken out 
already enough ore to pay for the claim, mills and expenses, 
and have now on the dump, in sight, about $50,000 worth of 
ore. The mill has ten stamps, and is not quite completed, 
but will shortly commence to reduce the ore. 

The Las Cedras, belonging to Don Santo Terminal, is sit- 
uated in the district of Barroyaca, near the small town of 
Teropaco, 135 miles from Guaymas, in the direction of 
Alamos, south-east. This is a very rich mine, and has been 
extensively worked. It is surrounded by rich, arable lands, 
and a permanent stream of water flows in the vicinity of 
the mine. Negotiations are being made to purchase it. 

During the years 1863 and 1864, many new mines were 
opened, among which were Las Cruzecitas, Corral Viejo and 
El Refugio, the latter on the border of Chihuahua, and the 
mines of La Cananea. 

On the Cerro Prieto, between the ranch os de la Palma 
and La Casa Pintada, is an old mine, called Tarasca, almost 
forgotten. Tradition places it very rich, although it has not 
been worked for over a century. In this same neighbor- 
hood are many old mines, and vestiges of buildings may yet 
be seen on their antiquated sites. 

In the district of San Jose de Gracias, a celebrated mine was 
worked in 1809-1810, by Juan Jose Carumina,who expended 
all his capital in bailing out the water from the old shaft, and in 
two or three hours, after clearing it of water, he took out a lump 
of ore weighing 75 pounds, which yielded 112 ounces of pure 
silver. The water began to gain on him again, so that in 
his efibrt to keep it down, he broke his bailing apparatus, 
and having contracted some debts, he could not return to 
his labor ; the mine refilled in six or seven hours, and he 
abandoned the enterprise. A company afterwards under- 
took to clear the mine, but after expending a considerable 
sum, " abandoned the mine on account of an accident to one 
of the workmen," says Velasco. This seems incredible ; 
but for the fact that the mines are mostly worked by Yaqui 
Indians, who are very superstitious, and believe that devils 
inhabit the mines, says Ruxton, in his " Adventures in Mexi- 
co." The accident to one of their number would prevent 



70 

others from working in a haunted mine, or one inhabited bj 
evil spirits, iu their imagination. Velasco further says : 
" Some of the old inhabitants of San Jose de Gracia, in 
speaking of this mine, testify that the vein in many places 
was of virgin silver ; and that in others the ore yielded fifty 
per cent, of pure silver ; also, that there was a stratum of 
red earth that yielded great quantities of gold, they having 
frequently witnessed the extraction of two or three hundred 
marcs on one single occasion. The depth of this mine ex- 
ceeds one hundred varas. " Taking into account the unreli- 
ability of traditions, and the extravagance of some Mexi- 
cans, still there may be some truth in the tradition, as the 
famous mines of Batopilas, in Chihuahua, and others, have 
produced like results. If the mine is still iu the condition 
that Carumina found it, a steam pump would soon reveal its 
hidden treasures. 

The mines of La Canauea, 80 years ago or more, were 
worked on a large scale with great energy, by the house of 
Guea, of Chihuahua. We understand that these mines, or 
the principal ones, are owned and worked by Gov. Pesquiera, 
of Sonora, and are now bonded by General Lagrange, of this 
city. ISTevertheless, we give a description of the district 
from the pen of the celebrated chemist, Robert L. B'Au- 
maille, mining engineer and official assayer for the State of 
Sonora. 

General Pesquiera has worked five mines in this district, 
viz: El Ronquillo, La Chivatera, San Rafael, (or La 
Plomosa) La Terdilla, and La Cobre Grande. The report 
was written by M. D'Aumaille in 1860, and is as follows: 
" La Cananea is situated about 36 miles south-west of the 
Presidio of Santa Cruz, about 54 miles south-east of San 
Pedro, probably 35 miles southerly from Fort Buchanan, 
and not far from the American line. The mines worked are 
seven in uamber, of which the principal are El Ronquillo, 
La Chivatera, San Rafael, Santo Domingo, La Mina de Cobre 
Pobre, and La Mina de Plomo de Arvallo. Li addition to 
these mines are La Mariquilla, (of white copper) El Tajo, 
(the ancient mine), and others — in fact, the whole region 
is strongly mineralized and of the most prepossessing ex- 
terior. The hacienda de Beneficioy Perez y Arvallo is on 
the El Ritto, a permanent stream at the foot of the mount- 
ains, about a mile and a half from the mines. The greater 
portion of the road is excellent, and the remainder can be 
readily made so. The hacienda is a mass of ruins, over- 
grown with rank vegetation. The machinery was destroyed 



71 

by natives carrying away the iron available. The situation 
is pleasant, on the border of a vast plain covered with wild 
mustangs or horses, and which stretches away to San Pedro, 
and contains much arable, with any quantity of grazing land, 
and lies immediately around the site. Half a mile or soup 
the valley brings us to the mine of El Ronquillo, called also 
from its refractory ores, La Maletiosa, with its ancient ha- 
cienda. This mine was the property of Arvallo, but the 
miners were driven off by the Apaches. El Ronquillo has 
a thickness of from three and a half to four feet of very good 
ore, worked to a depth of 80 feet. It has several shafts full 
of water to the brim, which comes from copious springs in 
the lower workings, and a ravine which passes across the 
vein, and from its situation upon the gentle slope of a hill 
which gradually merges into the plain beneath, it cannot be 
drained by a tunnel, but recourse must be had to steam 
machinery. The ore of this mine assayed from $30 to f 80 
per ton. Passing through the ravine, copper croppings are 
seen. One-quarter of a mile further, is located the mine of 
La Chivatera, situated on a steep declivity, admirably 
adapted to tunnel drainage, and is half full of water. It 
bears every external evidence of being a powerful vein, but 
we are told that it is really an irregular deposit. Three 
hundred yards higher up lies a great open cellar, for I can 
compare it to nothing else, with a small pile of refuse lying 
at one side. 

This is the mine of Tajo, of San Rafael. Judging from 
the small amount of earth visible, and the statement of the 
old administrador, it is nearly a solid mass of ore. You 
have ore on all sides- in the level, so that it is impossible to 
tell where the vein is. This ore is ductile and most easily 
reducible. It flows like water in the furnace. The supply 
is apparently inexhaustible. Further up the glen is the 
Mina de Plomo de Arvallo, of the same character as San 
Rafael. The ores of these mines appear to consist princi- 
pally of oxide and sulphate of lead; although vast masses 
of galena are found, and are so soft that a single barretero 
can throw down many tons a day, while the cost of extrac- 
tion is nothing. The shafts appear of trivial dimensions, yet 
they have been worked from time immemorial, and the 
litharge or jugos, from San Rafael, have supplied all north- 
ern Sonora with that necessary article ; and they have even 
formed an article of export to Jesus Maria, and other great 
mining districts of Central Chihuahua. The ore of the 
Cobre Pobre Mine in the vicinity is boundless in extent, but 



72 

of inferior quality. ISTear this point is also located the great 
vein of La Mariquilla. "We have been assured that it was in 
the sierra of La Mariquilla, twelve miles to the north. This 
mine, from its alleged dimensions, and the richness of its 
ores, has great interest attiched to it, as the cause of its 
abandonment was the fact of its producing white copper, 
something like the " paktong" of China, or the white cop- 
per of Heidelburghausen, the prototype of German silver. 
But the accounts of this mine are so obscure, conflicting and 
contradictory, that nothing can be made of it, but actual 
discovery of the mine. Some have denied the existence of 
this mine or vein, and others claim to have smelted it, who 
pronounced it an alloy of copper and silver. 

El Tajo, the most ancient mine, is a huge rent in the 
earth like the Pamys mine in Iglesia, but the ores changed 
at the depth of 30 feet, suddenly, into pyrites. It is probable 
from' analogy that these pyrites are argentiferous. Immense 
masses of black rock were abandoned by the ancient miners 
in the walls, under the supposition, probably, that they 
were black slate, which were subsequently assayed and 
proved to be a semi-stratified silicate of the dinoxide of 
copper. 

Other mines of argentiferous galena, varying from 12 to 
320 ounces per ton, are alleged to exist near the Ojo de 
Agua de Arvalla. Besides the oak, there are vast and most 
accessible forests of chamunque, a species of pitch pine of 
great strength and durability, excellently adapted for ma- 
chinery and building materials. 

The mines are accessible by a good wagon road via Santa 
Cruz from Fort Buchanan, Tubac, La Piedra Parade, and 
Guaymas, and are surrounded by the great depopulated ha- 
ciendas of San Bernardino, El Ojo de Agua de Arvalla, an- 
other Ojo de Agua, Cuitahaca, El Agua Escondida, Las 
Animas, and Banamichi. 

Another road, called a wagon road, but poorly deserving 
the name, passes by Eacuachi, Arispe, Ures, and Hermosillo, 
to Guaymas. Its position is romantic and delightful. Pas- 
tures exist green in Bacuachi all the year round, and of the 
most nutritious quality. Cultivable land of considerable 
extent is found in the same hacienda, which is the natural 
feeder of the real. The mines themselves are said, by 
Felipe Perez, to be on public land, a narrow strip or sobrante 
between two ranchos. All the necessaries of a great estab- 
lishment — building material and fluxes — abound in excess. 
Building stone, granite, fine marble, tepustete, arenillas, 



73 

jugos and syndas are plentiful; and, during the search for 
the lost mines of Las Lamas, Espiritu Santo, on the road to 
Banamichi,a vast deposit of most refractor}^ furnace sand- 
stone was found, the first seen in Sonora. The water is 
good and the locality healthful, and in proximity to the 
American military stations of Fort Buchanan and Arritoypa," 
and the Southern Piicifi.c R. R., which passes within about 
150 miles of the district. 

" Ange Robert L. D. Amuaille, 
Ensayador Oficial de Estado de Sonora, 
29 de Mayo de 1860." 

La Basura is the first mining region discovered in the 
country of the Papajos, and is situated twenty-four miles 
north-west of Caborca. Its veins are numerous, especially 
those of gold ; but although they are of marvelous richness, 
this lasts but a short time, as the deposits extend but a short 
distance below the surface, San Perf ecto was the second dis- 
covery made in the Papajo country. Quitovac was the 
third discovery, about seventy miles north-west from Ca- 
borca, and the same distance from the town of Guadalupe 
or Altar. The placers were first worked, they being very 
abundant in gold, which lay in grains on the surface, as at 
San Francisco and Cieneguilla, Afterwards many mines 
were opened to the depth of ten or fifteen varas, (about 33 
inches to each vara) some of which yielded from four to 
eight ounces of gold to the bowl (or " batea "); others not 
more than a few cents. Occasionally pockets were found 
of large extent that yielded rnarvelously. Nuggets of large 
size were also found ; one weighed twenty-one marcs, (each 
marc weighing 4,608 grains). A large piece of gold-bearing 
quartz was extracted from a ledge, that was nearly all gold, 
and weighed over thirty marcs. San Antonio, another 
placer, about ten miles west of Quitovac, was discovered a 
few days after the latter, and was exceedingly rich at the 
surface. The discovery of these placers was owing to 
Father Faustino Gonzalez, who prevailed upon the Papajo 
Indians to reveal their locality, in 1835. • Gonzalez made a 
large fortune, and he was soon surrounded by whites and 
Indians in great numbers. The placer continued rich for 
several years, and was worked until 1841, when the Papajos 
rose, and expelled the whites. 

After quiet was restored, a few persons returned to Qui- 
tovac and worked some mines discovered after the placers, 
in the neighborhood of an abundant spring, capable of sup- 
plying a population of 30,000 or 40,000 inhabitants. 



74 

In the Sonoica Valley, which is situated about 36 miles 
north of Quitovac, on the road to Lower California, the gold 
discovered was very fine and light. 

Alamo Muerto, about 48 miles west of Caborca, contains 
gold and silver mines and placers. It was discovered in 
the same^year as Quitovac, and although its ores yield a fair 
proportion of silver, the scarcity of quicksilver prevented 
their being worked to any great extent. There were, how- 
ever, ten mines in operation at the time of the rising of the 
Papajos, all of which were abandoned. 

Las Palomas, six miles to the south of Alamo Muerto, 
were rich placers of gold, similar to those of Quitovaca. It 
was also abandoned for the same reason, and is now frequent- 
ed by a few gambucinos, (poor miners) who are satisfied 
with enough to provide them with food. 

El Zone was discovered in 1844, and contains numerous 
gold mines, some of them quite rich at the surface. From 
one of them was taken a mass of quartz of 25 pounds 
weight, yielding 50 per cent, of pure gold. A mine is lo- 
cated here called Ris Suena; eight or ten shafts are down 
about 300 feet. Ores are shipped to Aribaca, about 120 miles 
on the road to Tucson; pays about $200 per ton. 

Cajitos is situated about 24 miles north-west from Caborca, 
and about 70 miles from port La Libertad, inland, north-east 
from the Gulf of Cahfornia. The mines located here are 
in a low range of mountains or foot-hills. The mines were 
discovered shortly after the other mines in the vicinity, and 
have been worked in a superficial manner since 1842. In 
1868, the hostile Indians drove the miners ofi", and the 
mines were abandoned until 1877, when small bodies of 
armed men returned and worked in the old drifts and inclines 
for a few weeks, then packed the ore on their mules, and 
slipped away quietly to Basura, about ten miles east, where 
reduction works were established. • The richest spots were 
thus only mined until 1879, when the mines were again 
worked by the primitive arastra. The shafts are sunk on 
an incline following the course of the ore vein. Instead of 
using the windlass, the ore is packed on the backs of 
miners in raw-hide sacks, up ladders made by binding cleats 
of wood upon an upright pole, with raw-hide thongs. The 
ore is worked by an iron bar called "barreton," about six 
feet in length, which is used to throw it down, using it as a 
hand-drill and lever. One end is shaped like a drill, and the 
other is hammered flat and sharp like the larger end of a 
pick. The ore is broken into small pieces and thus trans- 



75 

ported to the surface, to the arastras. For shovels, the 
horns of cattle are steeped in water and flattened out, and 
attached to pieces of wood with raw-hide thongs. 

In this manner, these mines have been worked for the 
last 35 years, and about four millions have been extracted 
from the four mines in the vicinity. The present depth of 
the shafts is as follows : The Tajilos, 275 feet; Puerte- 
citos, from 90 to 100 feet; Gahlea, 80 to 90 feet; Oro Blan- 
co, 180 feet; Santa Rosalia, 200 feet; with two levels and 
stations. 

" The gold has only been extracted, although a large per- 
centage of silver is found in the ore, which has been al- 
lowed to waste, owing to the lack of materials to save it. 
Mr. C. E. Hoffman, mining engineer of this city, although 
his residence is in San Jose, some months since was sent to 
Tucson to examine some mines in Arizona, and while there, 
met a Mexican, who showed him some of the ore from 
these mines, which, on being assayed, was found to be very 
rich. He accompanied the Mexican to the mines, was sat- 
isfied with their richness, and purchased the four mines, and 
thirteen others in the vicinity in the Juarez and Cajitos mining 
district, for himself and some gentlemen in this city, who 
subsequently organized the Caborca Mining Co. He re- 
turned again last April, and has been superintending their 
development, building reservoirs, and preparing a site for a 
20-stamp mill. The water is abundant in the vicinity, 
which is caught in reservoirs, and the one now constructed 
has suiScient water to supply a 20-stamp mill for eighteen 
months. 

" In this district the raucheros irrigate their lands by reser- 
voirs; though grain, if sown in season, and grass, thrive 
very well without. Mr. Hoffman has in his employ about 
sixty Yaquis. These Indians perform almost all the labor 
of Sonora, and are employed at from 50 cents to $1 per day. 
The ores of these mines assayed on an average $8 per ton. 
The ores of the Oro Blanco mine in this group, assayed as 
high as $224.94 — about two-thirds being silver. The Santa 
Rosalia, about four miles from the Oro Blanco, west, went 
about $151; and the Alberca, $85.75, gold and silver, of 
about equal proportions. Thus we see the whole of this 
region surrounding Caborca is one of the richest in the state, 
and may be worked with enormous results. The price of 
transportation will not exceed $25 per ton to Port la Liber- 
tad, and may there be shipped to San Francisco for $8 per 
ton additional ; although Mr. Hoffman proposes to work the 



76 

ore b}" a 20-stamp mill, until the mines are fm'ther devel- 
oped; then add to their capacity 40 stamps more. Hay ca;i 
be purchased at the mines at $16 per ton, and wood at |2.50 
and $3.00 per cord. The hill-sides in the vicinity are 
thickly covered with a heavy growth of iron-wood, mesquite, 
and palo-verde. The location is such that the mines can be 
profitably worked, and yield rich returns to the owners. 
The Santa Felicita mine, twenty miles east of the Cajitos 
Mining Camp, is owned by Mr. Davis of Chicago, who has 
erected a 20-stamp mill, and is working in free gold ore. The 
Cajon mine, twenty miles south-west, is worked by a 10- 
stamp mill.'' (From report of Mr. C. E. Hojffman.) 

"We are indebted to Mr. Benjamin Rountree for the fol- 
lowing : 

" The principal mine of the mining district of La Bar- 
ranca, in the jurisdiction of San Javier, is the Tarumari, a 
silver mine, which is owned by the Barranca Mill and Mining 
Company, of Guaymas. The owners are, N. Graff, F. R. 
Rountree, F. Ench, and Arturo Culicuro. This mine has 
reached a depth of 300 feet, and has produced bullion to the 
amount of $1,500,000. The width of the vein is from two 
and a half to four feet. The average assay has been, for all 
the working ores, about $100 per ton. The lowest workings 
are upon richer ore, reaching $160 per ton, with a vein at 
the lowest workings, 18 inches. The ore contains about five 
per cent, gold in bullion. A 20-stamp mill, concentrator, 
etc., are located at the mines. The ores are worked by the 
lixiviate process, or roasting, and then passed through a wet 
crusher. The ores are rebellious, and, consequently, have to 
be roasted before treating. This mine is located about 120 
miles north-east from Guaymas, and about 100 east from 
Hermosillo, 10 from LosBronces, 8 from San Javier." The 
same company owns the extensive coal beds hereafter men- 
tioned, which are located 1,500 feet from this mine. 

The region or mining district of Bolas de la Plata is sup- 
posed to be located in the northern part of Sonora, near the 
boundary line of Arizona. Its importance is chiefly derived 
from traditions of virgin silver having been found " at the 
place called Arizona, on a mountain ridge about half a 
league in extent. The discovery was made by a Yaqui In- 
dian, who revealed it to a trader, and the latter made it 
public. At a depth of a few varas, masses of pure silver 
were found, of a globular form, and of one and two arrobas in 
weight. Several pieces were taken out weighing upwards 
of 20 arrobas, or 500 pounds ; and one found by a person 



77 

from Guadalajara weighed 140 arrobas, or 3,500 pounds," 
all of which has been quoted and given as a probable fact 
in many works, and is found referred to as a tradition in 
many Spanish and English works, and even quoted as a fact; 
since in the same year of the discovery, 1769, the Presidio 
of Altar seized upon large masses of silver in the possession 
of certain persons as the property of the crown, which was 
denied by the parties interested, and the matter taken into 
the audie'nce chamber of Guadalajara, and from thence was 
referred to the court of Madrid. Seven years having 
elapsed, the crown decided that the silver pertained to the 
royal patrimony. The facts and all the data, in our opinion, 
can amount to no more, than that certain rumors were in ex- 
istence, in relation to the products of one of the rich mines 
of Sonora, which had been seized by an officer of the crown; 
and had been found in a melted state in, the mountains, at 
some mythical spot. The fact that the silver was in the 
shape of balls indicates that they were simply the ordinary 
products of one of the rich mines, and had been melted into 
the balls before mentioned, from the fact that formerly the 
silver in Mexico was thus melted, instead of into bars or 
bricks, as at present. 

The following is copied from the Appendix of " Ward 
on Mexico," which contains a complete report of the dis- 
trict of Babiacora : 

" In the neighborhood of Babiacora there are many silver 
mines, the most of which contain a greater or less propor- 
tion of gold. The principal are Dolores and San Antonio 
to the south-west of the town; Cerro Gordo, to the south- 
east, and Cobriza, on the Cerro de San Felipe, in the valley 
above Babiacora. 

" The Cerro Gordo mine is situated four leagues south- 
east of Babiacora, on a very high hill, and appears to have 
been of considerable interest, from the great quantities of 
refuse ores thrown out on its sides. The quantity of water 
contained in it cannot be ascertained, as there is not any 
perpendicular shaft. From the steepness of the hill, a tun- 
nel might be driven far below the bottom of the works, from 
a fine plain. The vein is about one-half yard in width. 
Some of the rejected ores produce from 12 to 80 marcs per 
'monton,' (often cargas, or 3,000 lbs.) 

"The mine of Cobriza de San Felipe, eight leagues north 
of Babiacora, and three from the town of Ituapaca, with the 
haciendas and ranchos of San Felipe, Agua Caliente, and 
Los Chinos, in its neighborhood, is said to have been aban- 



78 

cloned when producing pure silver, which the miners cut out 
in small pieces by means of large shears and chisels. The 
Apaches drove the miners away, and, during their absence, 
the shafts became filled with water, and a large rock 
fell into the mouth, blocking it completely up." This was 
in 1827. 

The mine of Taeapuchi is three leagues from Babiacora 
south-east. The ores produce 14 marcs per monton, or 
about $44.80 per 3,000 lbs. 

Dolores, one league from Babiacora, produces silver in 
the same proportion, with a mixture of gold. These mines 
are all advantageously situated, with wood and water in 
abundance adjacent, and are distant about 70 leagues from 
Guaymas. 

About eight leagues from Oposura north-west, are the 
old and celebrated mines of San Juan Bautista. The 
Mineral of San Juan is a mountain of itself, encircled by 
others to the north-west and south of considerably greater 
elevation. It is 3,000 yards in length from east to west, 
and 1,500 wide at the broadest point, and is entirely sur- 
rounded by a ravine which opens into a large plain. The 
mountain or hill is 600 feet high, at the summit of which 
the principal vein, called Santa Ana, crosses from north to 
south. This is crossed by another vein on the northern 
slope of the mountain, and is called El Rosario. These 
mines have produced enormously, but now contain much 
water. 

Twelve other distinct veins are found, with small threads 
of virgin silver permeating the centre. The azogues, (ores 
that contain quicksilver) which are very abundant, are un- 
touched, though they produce from 24 to 96 ounces of pure 
silver to the carga of 300 lbs. or from $140 to |650 per ton. 
The ores, by smelting, have yielded 60 per cent, of pure 
silver. 

Tradition says that when they were compelled to abandon 
Santa Ana from water coming in, they left off in a vein of 
pure silver one-third of a yard wide. 

The twelve veins vary from one yard to six in breadth. 
The depth to which they were worked is as follows: Santa 
Ana, 140 varas; Rosario, 60; Cata de la Agua, 5; Guada- 
lupe, 4; Gazapa, 20; Texedora, 20; Santa Catarina, 20; 
Arpa, 12; Prieta, 12; Bellotita, Coronilla, 12; Fontane, 10. 
Half a league further to the north of Santa Ana is the mine 
of Uescubridora, with a vein of azogues, (heavily charged 
with quicksilver) 15 varas wide; depth of mine, 30 feet; 



79 

assay, 96 ounces to the carga of 300 lbs, or about f 650 per 
ton, reduced by the amalgamating process. 

One league to the westward is the mine called Bronzosa, 
or Los Brouces, with an immense vein, which may be traced 
one mile on the surface. It has been considerably worked, 
but has water in it. Two leagues further west is the mine 
called Cobriza, a new mine 20 varasdeep. The two last have 
a good reputation. 

The mining district of jSTacosari is located 16 leagues from 
Oposura, and 14 eastward from Arispe. The entrance from 
the plain of JSTacosari is up a narrow glen two leagues in 
length, through which flows a tolerable stream of water, 
which is lost in the sand. 

About one mile from the entrance, during the rainy sea- 
son, it reaches to Ojo de la Agua, the source of the Opo- 
sura River. Just before you arrive at Nacosari, the glen ex- 
pands into a beautiful vale, planted over with a variety of 
ornamental shrubs, fig trees, pomegranates, peaches, and 
other fruits and plants, which were once arranged with 
order and taste, but now form a confused thicket. The re- 
mains of numerous canals are visible, through which water 
was conveyed to every part of the vale. This spot was once 
a residence of Jesuits. The remains of their dwellings and 
an old church at the upper end of the valley are yet to be 
seen. The surroundings are picturesque. The mountains 
on each side rise almost perpendicularly, and are intersected 
with strata of a great variety of colors. Some of them pre- 
sent a mixture of bright red, yellow, green, and other varied 
tints. 

There are many excavations in the mountains, and the 
principal mine is called San Pedro de ]S[acosari. This mine 
is a phenomenon. The vein runs east and west, and is laid 
open from the surface for more than 1,000 varas, to the 
depth of 70 varas. The breadth of the aperture is about 
two yards; but on each side are immense quantities of rub- 
bish thrown out. Much dirt and sand have washed in and 
covered the vein; but general report says that the mine has 
no water in the interior, and that the ores were so rich that 
the best yielded from 2 3 to 30 marcs of silver to the arroba 
(of 25 lbs.). 

The mines of Churunibabi, Pinal, Huacal, Aguaje, and 
many others, are situated to the north and north-east of 'Na- 
cosari, at no great distance from San Juan del Rio, built 
upon a stream which falls into the Yaqui. These minerals 
are equally rich with those already described. Pinal con- 



80 

tains a greater proportion of gold than silver. It is recorded 
in the archives of Arispe, that the former owner, a lady by- 
name, loaned quite a sum to the government. Churunibabi 
is a very old mine, worked in the same way as the San Pe- 
dro, as, indeed, are all the mines in this part of the country. 
The direction of the vein is east and west, width two varas. 
The last persons who undertook to work this mine, were 
named Escalante, Vasquez, and Coulla. They cleared away 
the rubbish at one end until they found a pillar left to sup- 
port some of the old workings, from which they took ores 
that produced $70,000, and yielded 70 marcs of silver per 
carga of 300 lbs. The mine is laid open from the surface 
400 yards in depth. Tradition says that the first discoverers 
found the vein of virgin silver one-half vara wide, (or about 
16 inches) and that it was abandoned, on account of the 
Apaches, when the vein was two varas or 66 inches wide, 
(6^ feet) and the ores assaying 70 marcs per carga, or about 
$1,500 per ton. The richness of, these ores appears _ almost 
incredible; but when we consider the great quantities of 
bars of silver the mines of Sonora, without the aid of quick- 
silver, have produced, the metals- must have been very rich 
and abundant. Ten leagues to the west and south-west of 
Nacosari, and six to the north of San Juan, are the mines of 
Tonbarachi and San Pedro Virguillia, with ores of from six 
to eight marcs per carga. To the west of Arispe are the 
mines of Santa Teresa, of gold and silver completely virgin, 
and the Cerro or Mountain of San Pedro, which contains 
innumerable mines and veins untouched. In all the districts 
above described, the roads are only passable from the public 
roads for horses and mules. The country being very mount- 
ainous, but not of very great elevation, none of these mines 
are more than six or seven leagues from rapid streams of 
water, sufficiently considerable to work almost any machin- 
ery. The mines of Aigame, or Haygame, near Horcositas, 
are famous for the abundance and richness of their gold- 
bearing ores. Those of Lam Pozas and Palos Blancos, five 
leagues west of Tepachi, are likewise good mines, with con- 
siderable veins carrying rich ores." 

Concluding Reflections on the Mines of Sonora. 

The business of examining and reporting on mines is a 
secret one, and, therefore, an attempt to give a complete de- 
scription and location of mines in a country comparatively 
but little known, is an exceedingly difficult matter, from 



81 

the fact that the territory embraced within the hmits of 
Mexico contains a rich harvest for our mining experts, and, 
with them, most of the knowledge of that mineral region 
reposes. 

We have no desire to antagonize the interests of any one, 
but simply to give all the data that can be obtained of in- 
terest and possible value to every one whose attention has 
been drawn to Mexico. We have on hand much data that 
we were compelled to condense as much as possible, and 
which we will give more fully at a future period. That the 
mines of Sonora present a rich field for mining operations is 
plainly indicated by the foregoing sketch of the mineral 
wealth of that region, and although the territory of Arizona 
presents an extensive field, yet it is but the border of an 
ancient and very rich region lying south in the Mexican Re- 
public. 

Although there are many old mines that have been but 
comparatively developed, yet the innumerable ledges of 
gold and silver bearing ore that lie untouched in that sparsely- 
settled region invite the American miner to their almost in- 
exhaustible riches. The able and impartial writer, Francisco 
Velasco, describes this portion of the Mexican Republic in 
glowing terms, with somewhat of the profusion of Spanish min- 
ing literature; yet he has been more conscientious than many 
interested Mexicans would desire; and where he has given 
unfavorable reports, we may be sure of having arrived some- 
where near the actual state of facts at the time his book was 
written; and we quote the following valuable information as 
to the actual condition of most of the old mines. He says: 
"that although experience goes to prove thai the mines of 
Sonora are generally sooner exhausted than those of Guana- 
juato, or Zacatecas^ this rule has many exceptions. It should 
also be borne in mind that many mines in the last century 
were abandoned in good condition; and among other rea- 
sons, the following may be cited: the owners of these mines 
were generally Spaniards, who regarded the poorer ores as 
of no value, as they had no establishments for their reduc- 
tion on a large scale, and confined their labors to the richer 
ores and virgin silver, which they frequently encountered; 
When they were no longer found in abundance, they con- 
tented themselves with what they hati already gained, and 
abandoned the mine, which naturally became choked, or 
full of water. The gambucinos, who then took charge, gen- 
erally confined their operations to the pillars, and left the 
mines in a most ruinous condition. Windlasses, or pulleys, 



were almost unknown; and where the mine could not be 
kept free of water by buckets, it was abandoned." All of 
which plainly indicates that old mines, as a rule, had better 
be very closely examined before any extensive outlay is 
entered upon; and since the mineral wealth of Souora is 
almost unlimited, a good, new mine, with paying ore, or 
an old mine with present evidence of its richness, is better 
than abandoned or exhausted mines with a past reputation 
of almost fabulous wealth. When a mine has produced its 
millions, generally there is not much paying ore left to warrant 
an extensive reopening. 

The Santa Clara Coal Fields of Sonora. 

" These coal fields are situated in the district of Ures, Jur- 
isdiction of San Javier, and Mineral or mining district of La 
Barranca, about 100 miles due east from Hermosillo, and 
about 120 miles north-east from the port of Quaymas, four 
miles east from the Barranca mine, about 12 miles east 
of the town of San Javier, and about three and a half miles 
west of the Yaqui River. 

" These coal beds were first denounced by William Lub- 
bert, JSTapoleon Graff, Thomas Mahan, Frank Ench, and An- 
tonio Cubillos, on the 26th day of April, 1872. At the 
present date the property is owned exclusively by IST. Graff, 
Florence R. Rountree, A. Cubillos, and F. Ench. The title 
of the above property vests in said parties, and is free from 
all incumbrances ap to Jan. 1st, 1881, when, at that date, 
the property was bonded to Charles A. McQuesten, of this 
city. The property is held by the above-named parties as 
an association. 

" The property consists of extensive deposits of anthracite 
coal," with some appearances of being partly bituminous, 
which indicates that there must be extensive coal beds of 
both anthracite and bituminous coal. " The coal beds de- 
nounced are contained in one square league of land. Up to 
the present date two well-defined veins of coal have been 
exposed. 

" The first consists of a vein nine feet six inches thick, that 
has been developed by explorations and examinations on 
the side of a mountain. 

" In some places, the vein is within about from one to four 
feet from the surface. This vein can be traced for about 
1,000 feet horizontally, and about 500 feet above the base of 
the mountain, and extending toward the summit of the 



83 

mouutain. One extensive tunnel has been run on this vein, 
following its dip. 'Ro explorations have been made above 
the point above mentioned; but indications show that this 
vein has a much larger area. The incline of the vein is 
20 degrees S. S. E., the dip east by north-east. At a dis- 
tance of 22 feet below the point of location of the above- 
mentioned vein is another vein of about seven feet in 
thickness. This vein is reached by a shaft on the opposite 
side of the creek, on the side of the mountain opposite. On 
the side of the mountain, several excavations have deter- 
mined the thickness of the vein. At the foot of this mount- 
ain is a caiion about 100 yards wide, on the opposite side of 
which rises a high and rugged mountain. This canon is 
about six miles long, commencing at the Taramari mine and 
ending near the Yaqui River. The coal veins are about 
one-half the distance between these points, or about two 
and one-half miles from the Yaqui River bottoms. 

"The bed of this canon can be made into a good wagon 
road with little work, from the coal veins to the river. 
Water is found in the canon at a depth of eight feet. In 
many places in this canon, slate and many indications of coal . 
are found. The geological formation of the vicinity and the 
character of the coal is as follows: The mountain ranges in 
the immediate vicinity of the coal are very rugged, with 
steep sides, covered with trees, cactus plants, and other trop- 
ical vegetation. The average elevation of the range of 
mountains is about 3,000 feet above the sea level. 

" The range of mountains is continuous for over 100 miles 
running north, and about twenty south, of the location of the 
coal beds. They form the mountains bordering on both sides 
of the valley of the Yaqui River. Placers of gold that have 
yielded very richly, are located near the valley of the Yaqui, 
one man having in a single season extracted $30,000 from 
this same canon where the coal beds are located. The 
Yaqui River is about three-and-a-half miles from the present 
workings of the mine; and the coal mine is very easy of 
access by a road to be constructed through the canon, up a 
gentle incline. At present there is no road for wagons. 
Horses and mules are therefore used to reach the mines. 
With very little work a wagon-road could be constructed, or 
even a railroad, direct to the river's bank. For a distance 
of about ninety miles from the mouth, the Yaqui River is 
uavigable for barges or flat boats; and at this point rocks 
and rapids impede a further passage, except for small boats, 
which are carried around the rapids by '.'carriers," at the 



84 

mouth of the cauon opposite the coal fields. The river at 
this point is about 200 feet wide and four feet deep, during 
the dry season; but during the rainy season a considerable 
increase in the volume of water takes place. Engineers 
state that the river can be made navigable for barges from 
the point opposite the cauon before mentioned, to the mouth 
of the river, a distance, by following the course of the river, 
of about 120 miles. The Yaqui River lands, for a distance 
of 100 miles above its mouth, are noted for the richness of 
the soil, and the large crops, " as before mentioned." "A rail- 
road can easily be built from the mine to the river, and fol- 
lowing near the different windings of the river north, to 
enter the United States near Tombstone, where a market can 
be found for a large quantity of coal for milling purposes, 
and also for smelting furnaces, used to smelt the rich argent- 
iferous and galena ores that abound in that region; and also 
through northern and middle Sonora, where hundreds of 
mines containing emelting-ore require a coal suitable for 
smelting purposes; or south, through the rich valley of the 
Yaqui River bottom, where millions of acres of the finest 
land in the world are awaiting the emigrant to cultivate its 
soil; and on to the port of Guaymas, where a market can be 
found for a large amount of coal for steamers that regularly 
ply from San Francisco and that port, and for vessels of war 
of England, United States, and other nations, that regularly 
touch at Guaymas. 

" From Guaymas, barges can ply between that port and 
Mazatlan, or Cape St. Lucas, in Lower California, where a 
depot of coal could readily find a sale in supplying ocean 
steamers that ply between China, Japan, Australia, Pa- 
nama and San Francisco, with a prospect in the near future 
of supplying coal to the fleets of steamers that will ply 
through the Isthmus of Panama Canal. Barges could also 
take the coal direct from the Yaqui, up the gulf, to the Col- 
orado River, to Yuma; there supplying the steamers on that 
river, the several railroads that pass over this river, and 
the mills on and near this river, where steamers now go up 
a distance of about 200 miles from Yuma. Vessels could 
also transport this coal direct from the Yaqui to San Fran- 
cisco, where a ready demand for anthracite coal will result 
in large sales, as ac present all anthracite coal used in San 
Francisco comes from Pennsylvania. ' ' (Extract from the 
report of Charles A. McQuesten, of this city, on the 
Santa Clara coal fields of Sonora.) "We might add that the 
Mexican Congress has lately approved of the concession to 



85 

Mr. Robert R. Symon for the construction of a railroad from 
the above coal fields to El Morrito, on the Bay of Guay- 
mas. Thus it will be seen that this coal will soon be on the 
market. 

Quicksilver, Graphite, Marble, Copper, Lead, Coal, 

Iron, Etc. 

The ores of the mines of Santa Teresa and Santa Ana 
contain quicksilver, and tradition says that the mineral re- 
gion of Rio Chico also produces this metal. 

In San Jose' de la Pimas there is a small hill entirely com- 
posed of graphite or black lead. 

In San Javier is a vein of a dark color on the face of a 
hill, from which is extracted a compact substance which, 
when dissolved in water, produces a fine ink, which is sim- 
ilar to India ink, from China. 

In Oposura, there is a hill composed of excellent marble, 
of which the altars and churches of Sonora are built. 

At Ures, there is also another marble quarry. 

The celebrated hill of "La Campana," in the city of Her- 
mosillo, is composed entirely of marble as white as that of 
Italy, and it is used, in some instances, to pave the streets. 
Alabaster and jasper are found also at Oposura and Ures. 
Copper is found in the mountain range of La Cananea, north 
of Arispe. 

Aduana, (an old region of gold mines) Tonuco, 36 miles 
west of Hermosillo, and Bacuachi and La Cobriza, west of 
Horcasitas, all contain copper ores. 

Lead abounds in Cieneguilla and Arispe, Batuco, San 
Jos^ de Gracia, Aduana, and Promontorio. 

Agua Caliente and Alamo Muerto contain lead, although 
it is found in the greatest quantities at Cieneguilla and 
Arispe. 

Coal is found near Los Bronces and La Baranca, be- 
fore mentioned, where a vein of from seven to nine feet is 
found. 

Iron is found in abundance in the southern part of Ari- 
zona, in the range of mountains called Madera, and in the 
northern part of Sonora, and at Mogollon. 

In the neighborhood of Cucurpe there is a vein of in- 
combustible crystal. 



SINALOA. 



CHAPTER I. 

General Description. 

From the river Mayo to Alamos, in Sonora, the country 
is an extension of rolling hills, and from thence down to the 
coast and the valley of the river Fuerte, bordering Sinaloa. 
Here the " tierra caliente " plain is encomitered that ex- 
tends all the way down the coast, through the whole length 
of the State of Sinaloa, The town of Fuerte is located on 
the river Fuerte, about 80 miles from the mouth. The 
river is navigable for flat-boats up to this point. An exten- 
sive valley below Alamos extends almost due south, between 
the mountains on the east and the low range of hills on the 
west, until it opens into the valley of the Fuerte and the 
plains located south. The Fuerte River is about 200 miles 
long, and rises north-east in the Sierra Madre, and flows 
south-west into the Gulf of California. The next river en- 
countered is the Sinaloa, which rises in the neighborhood of 
the south-western part of Chihuahua, and flows in a south- 
westerly course, describing a section of a circle through 
placers of gold situated east of the town of Sinaloa, about 
25 miles. Here the river winds in a curve to the east and 
again to the west, within a space of about eight miles, 
then continues its course, passing the town of Sinaloa, situ- 
ated on its banks, and flows south-west into the gulf. A 
small peninsula completely hides its mouth from the open 
waters of the gulf. Another peninsula juts out in an oppo- 
site direction, forming a very good harbor for small vessels. 
The river is about 180 miles in length. The Mocorito Ar- 
royo or creek is next crossed, and another small stream, 
until the river of Culiacau is reached, which rises in the 
western part of Durango, near Tamasula, and flows south- 
west into the gulf, the mouth of which is also hidden 
behind an island, forming a very good roadstead, called the 



87 

Puerto de Altata. The city of Culiacan is located on the 
banks of this river, opposite the point where the Rio de 
Hamaya empties into the Culiacan River. This river is 
about 150 miles long, and on each side of it spurs of the 
Sierra Madre jut out into the plain within about 30 miles of 
the coast; the valley of Culiacan being at this point 15 
miles wide. The Rio de San Lorenzo is next reached, that 
flows south-west direct into the gulf. The great mining dis- 
trict of Cosala lies south-east of this river, near its source; 
the town of Cosala being about 10 miles south from its 
banks. This river runs through a vallej^ of narrow width, 
the whole distance, until it reaches the plains beyond. 

A valley branches from the valley of San Lorenzo up to 
Cosala, with a gentle incline, when it again commences to 
slope on the other side down a valley or canon to the Elota 
River. This river also rises in the western part of Durango, 
and flows south-west into the gulf. This river is about 110 
miles long, and has numerous branches. In the neighbor- 
hood of its branches, in its canons and ravines, and on the 
slopes of the mountains adjacent, are some of the most cele- 
brated mines of gold and silver in the state. The Rio de 
Piastla also rises in Durango, in its western part, near the 
celebrated mines of San Dimas, and flows south-west, pass- 
ing San Ignacio, and empties into the gulf. The valley of 
Piastla is also very narrow; but some exceedingly fertile 
lands are found in its bottoms, as in many other portions of 
the state. 

Another small arroyo is reached, and we enter into the 
thickly-settled -region adjacent to the city of Mazatlan. The 
port of Mazatlan is located on the coast, about half-way be- 
tween the mouth of the arroyo last mentioned and the river 
of Mazatlan. This river also rises in the canons of Durango, 
about 20 miles across the border line of the state of Sina- 
loa, and beyond the mines of Ventanas, and flows south-west 
about 50 miles, and then takes a course almost due south, 
and empties into the gulf, or rather Pacific Ocean; the 
mouth of the Gulf of California beiug now reached. The 
point where the river discharges itself into the sea is about 
15 miles below Mazatlan City. The Rosario River also rises 
across the border line of the state, in Durango, and flows 
south-west, into the ocean, passing El Rosario, in the neigh- 
borhood of which are located some very rich mines. Above 
the mouth of this river, and lying in from the coast, is 
located the lagoon or lake of El Caimanero, which is about 
12 miles long, and about 4 miles in width at its widest 
point. 



The Rio de las Canas, at the southern border of the State, 
separating Sinaloa from Jalisco, flows in the same direction 
as the Rosario River, and empties into the bay or lagoon of 
Boca de Tecopan, a narrow inlet of the sea which winds 
into the plain about five miles, and then spreads north in a 
narrow t3od3^ of water about ten miles, and south about 
thirty-five miles, into an extensive body of water in the 
southern part. It is said it may be made one of the finest 
harbors in the world, and would contain all the fleets of the 
globe. With such a harbor as this at Mazatlan the most power- 
ful city of the Pacific Coast would spring up upon its shores. 
This harbor is located about fifty miles below Mazatlan. 
The Tierra Caliente plain, before referred to, is about 300 
miles long, and intersected by the rivers and streams before 
mentioned; and at its widest part is about forty miles in 
width, with extensive valleys branching up the banks of the 
rivers, some of which are 100 miles in length — the valley of 
the Fuerte being the largest. The foot-hills of the mount- 
ains are covered with timber, such as cedar, and the varie- 
ties of oak. The State of Sinaloa extends over an area of 
nearly 3,600 square miles, and has a population of about 
200,000. The surface of the plains of the coast is low and 
somewhat sandy, though the soil is very fertile. Its pro- 
ductions are similar to Sonora, though to a less extent. 
Dye-woods abound on the coast and toward the Sierra Madre, 
and on the eastern frontier there abound extensive forests 
of pine and cedar covering the mountain sides adjacent to. 
the streams. The rivers flowing into the gulf are used to 
irrigate adjacent land during the dry season. The state is 
divided into nine districts, viz., Mazatlan, Rosario, Concor- 
dia, Cosala, San Ignacio, Mocorito, Fuerte, Sinaloa, and 
Culiacan. The state is bounded on the north and north- 
west by Sonora; and north and north-east by Chihuahua; 
and east by Durango; and south-east by Jalisco; on the 
south-west by the mouth of the Gulf of California. The north 
and north-eastern portion is very mountainous, while it is 
more level on the coast, which is drained, as well as the 
mountains adjacent in the north-east, by the rivers before 
named. The interior contains mines of considerable extent, 
some of which are very rich, to which we will give some at- 
tention hereafter. The interior valleys are very fertile, espe- 
ciall}^ the valley of Piastla, on the Piastla River, and the 
valley of Rosario, about twenty miles south-east of Mazatlan. 
There are about 100 towns in the state, and out of the latter, 
Mazatlan, Culiacan, Cosala, Rosario, Fuerte, and Sinaloa, are 



89 

the most prominent. The first town reached of any import- 
ance is the town of El Fnerte. 

The situation of the town is charming, being on the south 
bank of the Fuerte River. This river is about a quarter 
of a mile wide, and passes along the foot of a plateau that 
is elevated about 90 feet above its bed. There is a fair 
view both up and down the river, from this plateau. The 
town of Fuerte has about 1,000 inhabitants, and should be 
the principal inland town of the State. 

There is no commerce at Fuerte, from the fact that its 
advantageous natural position is no protection from the 
competition of Alamos on the north and Mazatlan on the 
south. The valley in which the town is located is one that 
might be one of the most fertile in the State and can be 
easily irrigated from the river, and will raise corn, wheat, 
sugar-cane, cotton, and the various cereals, but the inhab- 
itants prefer to use this magnificent valley for grazing pur- 
poses, and raise chiefly stock. The mules raised here have 
the reputation of being the best in the State. The road 
from Fuerte is of the same character to Mazatlan, passing 
through Mocorita and Sinaloa. 

The principal family at Fuerte are the descendants of A. 
Ybarra. 

Ward, in his celebrated work on " Mexico," says of 
Fuerte: 

" The situation is not particularly favorable, as, notwith- 
standing the vicinity of the river, the country about the 
town is unproductive, and the heat in summer intolerable. 

"The Tierra Caliente of Sinaloa extends from El Fuerte, 
or rather from Alamos, to the confines of Guadalajara 
(Jalisco). It is one vast, sandy plain, destitute of vegeta- 
tion, except in the rainy season, or in spots where the vi- 
cinity of the mountains or the confluence of two large 
streams insure a constant supply of water. 

"This is the case at Culiacan, the most ancient and popu- 
lous town in Sinaloa, situated upon a river of the same name, 
80 leagues south of El Fuerte. It contains 11,000 inhab- 
itants, and the country about it is well watered and highly 
productive." 

Of Cosala, he says: "Cosala, 35 leagues south of Culi- 
acan, is the next town of any note on the road to Jalisco. It 
derives its importance entirely from its mines, one of which, 
called ISTuestra Seuora de Guadalupe, is very celebrated. Gua- 
dalupe is free from water, and situated at a considerable ele- 
vation above the plain. It contains a vein of gold of consid- 



90 

erable breadth, and its produce might be increased to ten 
times its present amount, etc." 

From Cosala to the capital or City of Mexico, or the Cen- 
tral States of the Republic, there are two routes, the one by 
Rosario, the Canas and Guadalajara, which is impassable 
during the rainy season, and the other due east from Cosala 
across the Sierra Madre to Durango. The distance from 
Alamos to Fuerte is 35 miles. This place was originally 
a military station, but the military are now removed to 
Mazatlan. 

The town of Sinaloa is located on the river of the same 
name, and has about 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants. The prin- 
cipal business of this place is in the production of Indian 
earn, pork, and lard, which is exported. The principal busi- 
ness men are Francisco T. Penna and 'N. l!Tunez, who are 
in both the wholesale and retail trade, and H. Carubbio. 
The town of Sinaloa is located on a small river, and in the 
winter or dry season it dwindles to a very small stream. The 
seasons are reversed in the State. They have their dry 
season while we have our wet, and the reverse. The district 
around is fertile, and produces the usual agricultural pro- 
ductions, though the principal trade is as we have stated. 

The town has but one street. The ladies of this town are 
celebrated for their beauty in the whole State, as those of 
Hermosillo are famous in Sonora. 

"" Roads of the State. 

A stage runs from Guaymas to Alamos over the old road, 
which runs east back of the bay, or north of the inlet form- 
ed by the mouth of the Yaqui River, crossing the small 
stream of San Jose, and the river Matape which flows into 
the gulf; thence to Toriu on the banks of the Yaqui River, 
a distance of about 80 miles. The river is here crossed by 
a ferry in wet seasons, and forded in dry seasons, to Bocam, 
and thence north, following the course of the Yaqui, to Co- 
cori, about 20 miles; thence to El Baihoca and south to Co- 
raque, due east of Bocam, and distant in a straight line only 
about 15 miles. This short cut can be taken and save about 
35 miles of useless travel. From Coraque the road runs 
south-east to Camoa on the opposite side of the Mayo River, 
which is here crossed at a distance of about 35 miles from 
Coraque; thence to Alamos, about 12 miles. From Alamos 
to El Fuerte the distance is about 35 miles, where the 
Fuerte River is crossed; thence almost due south to Sinaloa, 



91 

about 60 miles; thence across the Sinaloa River and on to 
the Mocorito River and the small town of Mocorito; thence 
south-east through Palmas to La Morita; and thence taking a 
more southerly course to Culiacan across the Ciiliacau River, 
distant from Sinaloa about 85 or 90 miles. Here two routes 
are presented to Mazatlan, one by way of Oosala, which takes 
a south-east course through the small towns and ranchos of 
Las Arayanes, Las Flechas, El Vichi, Las Milpas, Santa Anita, 
and Casa Blanca on the small stream of San Lorenzo; thence 
crossing the stream east to Las Vegas, Carriscal, Higuiera, 
and Cosala, a distance of about 60 miles; thence south, pass- 
ing Calafanta, Conitaca, Salado, crossing a small branch of 
the Elota River; thence to Laguna and Elota, about 40 miles 
from Cosala. The other route from Cuhacan runs south to 
Aguarita and El Carriscal, El Salado, and San Lorenzo on the 
river of that name. The river is here crossed and a south- 
east course taken to Avaya, Vinapa, Higuerita, and thence 
east to Elota on the Elota River. The former route is the 
most traveled, though longer, as it passes through the rich 
mining region of Cosala. The latter route is over a stretch 
of about 80 miles, while the former is about 100 miles. 
From Elota the road is direct to Mazatlan, distant about 55 
miles south-east, crossing the Elota River, and Piastla River 
at Piastla; thence to Coyotitan, Quebrachi, Quelite, Coma- 
cho. Aval, Los Otates, and Mazatlan. From Mazatlan a road 
runs south-east to the Presidio of Mazatlan, and east to El 
Rosario on the Rosario River; thence south-east into the 
state of Jalisco to Guadalajara and on to the capital of Mex- 
ico. 

The road from Fuerte to Mazatlan and Rosario is a good 
one, to which we have referred already, and is used for wag- 
ons and a stage line constantly during the dry season, but it 
is impassable during the wet season on account of the lack 
of the bridges over rivers that are swollen to a dangerous 
depth and swiftness, and the roads being of clay and sand 
become boggy. Another road, or rather mule trail, leads 
from Mazatlan through San Sebastian east and then north, 
passing many ranchos on the Mazatlan River, to Morito and 
east, where the river Mazatlan is crossed twice on account of 
a bend in the river, and on up the Mazatlan Valley into Du- 
rango; passing Favor in Sinaloa and Saulito in Durango, 
and other towns up the canon to the mines of San Antonio 
de las Ventaiias, and the celebrated mines of Guarisamay, 
and from thence on to Durango, about 150 miles distant from 
Mazatlan. 



92 

CHAPTER II. 

Mazatlan. 

The coast adjacent to Mazatlan, with its mountain peaks 
in the background, presents a grand and imposing scenery; 
and during the rainy season, when the valleys, hills and 
mountains are covered with verdure, it is one of the most 
beautiful spots on the coast. The small sugar-loaf mountains 
rise frequently, near and in the distance, presenting a variety 
of scenery to the eye that is very pleasing, and to lovers of 
scenery, it is delightful. 

The port of Mazatlan is not capacious, nor surrounded by 
those safe landmarks characteristic of many of the ports on 
the Pacific Coast. For fear of the southerly or south-west 
winds, no vessels can be anchored long in the harbor, as the 
land is low adjacent, and on the south-west mostly open to 
the ocean. For this reason, vessels only stop long enough 
to unload, and proceed on their way. The inner harbor is 
far from admitting heavy merchant-vessels like the clipper 
ships arriving in the port of San Francisco. The approach 
is safe, however, for ocean steamers to approach and retreat 
when touching at this port. Larger ships anchor under the 
lee of the island of Creston, which is rather small, but much 
elevated. In this harbor there are two other islands, called 
Venado and Pajoros. The dangers to vessels during the 
stormy season detract much from the commercial position 
and advantages of Mazatlan; and, for that reason, Guaymas, 
in Sonora, will be the principal port for the vessels passing 
up the Gulf of California. 

The city of Mazatlan is nearly surrounded by water, a 
mere tongue connecting it to the mainland. Near the 
water's edge, and back half a mile, the surface of the site is 
even, and also to the hmits of the city, from the fort on the 
west, for more than a mile eastward; yet, farther back, it is 
uneven and ungraded. The fort commanding the inner har- 
bor to the city is located on the side of an elevated plateau, 
near 1,500 feet above the sea. On its summit, one may en- 
joy the beautiful scenery spread out before him — a pano- 
rama of mountains, low undulating hills, and valleys. In 
this fort are i)lanted some antiquated cannon, commanding 
the city and harbor. The streets are not laid out regularly. 
One main street runs from the water front out into the 
country beyond, on which are located the retail business 
houses. The wholesale houses are situated on the streets of 



93 

the water front. The whole number of shops and stores 
reach as many as 500. The buildings are mostly constructed 
of soft brick, one foot square, and, in some instances, there 
are stone buildings. Adobe houses are mostly occupied by 
the poorer classes in the suburbs. Most of the buildings 
are one-story; yet, in some few instances, the houses built 
by foreigners are two stories high. The houses are con- 
structed roughly, and plastered inside and out, and after- 
wards penciled. The roofs and floors are made of brick. 
For the floor, the ground is raised, and surface leveled, and 
bricks laid in cement, which makes the floors both durable 
and cool in the summer. When the floors are carpeted, 
wool or common cotton is laid down first, then the carpet. 
Among the poorer classes, no carpet is used, but a native 
mat. Heavy joists and close together are laid across the 
walls of the building for the roof, and on these a tight floor 
of boards is laid, and on this the bricks are laid, one foot in 
thickness, cemented completely water-tight. The walls are 
commonly three feet thick, making each house a complete 
fortress, and, withal, very cool in the summer season. 

The style of architecture is a mixture of the Moorish and 
Gothic. The doors are clumsy and large, generally fast- 
ened inside by wooden bars. The windows have mostly 
iron gratings of three quarters of an inch in diameter, and 
sometimes shutters, making the city look like a city of pris- 
ons. The inside walls are frequently papered, and the 
houses well and even elegantly furnished. 

Most of the goods sold here are imported directly from 
Europe, and German houses seem rather to take the lead in 
commercial pursuits throughout the country. There are 
about 100 foreigners in the city, mostly engaged in com- 
mercial pursuits, and they are said to own most of the real 
estate in the city. 

Gold, silver, and copper, and dye-woods are shipped from 
this point in large quantities. Many ship-loads are packed in 
from the interior on the backs of mules. "Burros," or 
she-asses, are used, to some extent, to pack mortar, bricks, 
lumber, etc.; but freight wagons and carts are also used, 
drawn by mules. 

The streets are mostly paved with round cobble-stones, 
and in a concave form, so that the water drains oft* in the 
center. These stones are laid in cement, and become quite 
firm, so that they are not easily misplaced, except during 
the rainy season. The sidewalks are narrow, some made of 
hewn timbers, and laid so that two persons can walk side by 



94 

side. Others are constructed of soft burnt bricks and flag- 
stone. On any of them, but two persons can walk side by 
side. 

The government buildings, such as the custom houses, 
forts, and arsenals, are well constructed, airy, and remarka- 
bly adapted to the torrid zone. These, as well as private 
buildings, have a species of rain spouts, which, in the rainy 
season, scarcely extend the dripping waters from the side- 
walks. There is one church in Mazatlan. The composite 
architecture of beautiful constructions of arches and pillars 
give some of the buildings quite an imposing appearance. 
There are two principal hotels, kept by Frenchmen, who 
charge about $2.00 per day. Inside the court-yards, flower- 
ing shrubs, rare bushes, the hyacinth, and the trailing vine 
are frequently seen. The delicate and refined taste of the 
ladies of Mazatlan is well known in the republic, and their 
beauty rivals the maids of Hermosillo. A public plaza is 
tastefully laid out, with seats on the sides of the square, 
made of brick, having brick sides, and painted red, with 
brick walks through the center, coinciding with either point 
of the compass, and with a circular brick walk inside the 
seats around the whole circuit of the plaza; and to enhance 
the beauty of this, every 15 feet orange trees are set on the 
inside edge of this circular walk, which truly adds beauty 
to the whole scene. A beautiful fountain of crystal water 
plays day and night. 

The marketing is done principally on Sunday morning on 
the market square, where purchases are made from the 
country people for the week. Indian corn, beans, Irish po- 
tatoes, sweet potatoes, eggs, red peppers, bananas, plantains, 
oranges, limes, several species of custard apples, squashes, 
pumpkins, watermelons, muskmelons, chickens, turkeys, 
and a variety of gallinaceous birds, such as the "hoco" or 
"curassow" and pheasants; also, crockery ware, chairs, and 
other articles are not uufrequently exhibited for sale. After 
the sales are ended, to the inhabitants of the city, the bal- 
ance are bought by local hucksters at a reduced price. A 
theater is in the city, where the beauty and elite gather to 
listen to Spanish plays of love and tragedy. 

Mazatlan is now a commanding commercial city of rapid- 
ly growing importance to Lower California, southern So- 
nora. Chihuahua, Durango, and northern Jalisco, and the 
state of Sinaloa. 

Vast regions of agricultural, grazing and mineral lands 
are adjacent, untouched, that await development by foreign 



95 

capital and industry. Most of the trade of all this region 
passes through Mazatlan, 

This cit}' has but few equals for its surrounding advantages, 
and invites to her municipal confines an intelligent class of 
immigrants, who will develop her latent energies and re- 
sources. 

Sailing-vessels go leisurely up the gulf, cari-ying the pro- 
ductions of the south, though the greater part of the carry- 
ing is now done by steamers. The principal freight is su- 
gar, coffee, rice and tobacco, with foreign and domestic mer- 
chandise. These are exchanged for flour, fruits, gold and 
silver, copper, pearls, salt, hides, and tallow. Pome consid- 
erable sugar, cotton, rice, corn, beans, etc., and tropical 
fruits are produced in the rear of Mazatlan, in the Mazatlan 
Valley, which is 45 miles wide in its widest part, nearly one 
hundred miles in length, and well watered by the Mazatlan 
River. 

Land can be cultivated three miles on each side of the 
river, on the river bottom lands. There are about 17,000 
inhabitants in the town. The river, which empties into the 
sea, is 100 yards wide in rainy seasons, and is navigable for 
large barges, for five months, some distance up the river. 
The stage crosses in barges. The country east of Mazatlan 
is mostly level to the base of the mountains, diversified by 
rolling ground. There is one large cotton factory in the city, 
which manufactures the cotton raised in the vicinity, into 
goods that are purchased by the inhabitants of the region 
surrounding. This is a great cotton country, and timber is 
plentiful. 

Coal has been found seventy-five miles from the city, with 
a vein cropping out three feet in width, something like an- 
thracite. An interior valley, of 30 to 40 miles in width, at 
the widest point, lies beyond the Sierra Madre, east of the 
city, 40 miles from the river Mazatlan. Rich mines have 
been found near Cosala. Grazing is carried on extensively. 
The city commands the trade and supplies the wants of the 
country people and the inland towns within two-thirds of a 
circle from 200 to 1,000 miles in the interior. 

Rich merchants come in from the country with pack- 
trains, who have extensive haciendas, gold or silver mines, 
or who are exclusively engaged in commercial pursuits. 
The roads, or rather trails, through the mountain districts' are 
not very good ; and the rivers, in the rainy season, being mostly 
without bridges, present serious obstacles during that season 
for travel in the interior. The rainy season commonly in- 



9G 

eludes the months of June, July, August, September, and a 
part of October; and during most of this time it rains a little 
nearly every day. Most of the flour used in Mazatlan, Tepic, 
and Colima, and the ports of San Bias and Manzanillo, is ex- 
ported from Guaymas, in Sonora. The flour is nearly as white, 
possessing the same qualities, as California flour. From 
Mazatlan to the mouth of the Rio Grande, in Texas, near 
that point it is nearly six hundred miles; and a railroad from 
this city to the mouth of that river is practicable, and can 
be made by passing over a distance of 1,000 miles. To 
Loredo, in Tamaulipas, on the Rio Grande, it is not much 
more; the latter point being the point of connection with an 
eastern road running from the City of Mexico, almost due 
north. A better route, however, might pass Guadalajara, 
and connect with that road south of Loredo. The City of 
Mazatlan will be unquestionably a powerful rival of San 
Francisco. On the low land there is not much cultivation 
on a level with the sea. 

The hacienda or rancho Tamaulipas of Piastla, on the road 
to Culiacan, contains about 30,000 acres, and is situated on 
the Piastla River, about seven miles from the coast, the whole 
of which can be cultivated, and is easily irrigated from the 
river. The stream, during the wet season, is navigable as far 
as the rancho. This rancho is owned by the Laveagas, but 
is not for sale. There are small ranchos, however, in the 
vicinity for sale. There are also very fertile lands near the 
Rio de Rosario, twenty miles south-east from Mazatlan. 
On this river, and throughout the country, land is cheap. 
Haciendas of one, two, and three leagues in extent, can be 
purchased for one, two, three and four thousand dollars. 

Corn sells from 50 cents to $1 per bushel; beans, #9 per 
carga; oranges and limes $10 per thousand ; sweet potatoes, 
6 to 10 cents per lb. ; beef, pork, and mutton, from 6 to 10 
cents per lb. Poultry and eggs are high. Butter is sent 
here from Guaymas, but it is of a whitish color, and almost 
tasteless. The cheese is no better. Lower California fur- 
nishes large quantities of this cheese for the market of Ma- 
zatlan. An industrious American might settle in the vicinity 
of Mazatlan, and following mQst any pursuit, such as garden- 
ing, keeping a dairy, or even agriculture, he could accumu- 
late a snug fortune, and in a short time retire from business, 
living in comparative ease and affluence. 

The principal business houses are: Rogers & Marshall, 
Juan Cristobal Farber, Edward Cofiey, Budwig & Rasch, 
Isaac V. Coppall, Charpentier, Reynard & Co., Peiia & Co., 



97 

HeruaDclez, Mendia & Co., Bartning, Hermanos & Co., Mel- 
chers Succesores, James Hermauos, C. Goldschmidt, L. 
Cannobio Hermanos, Diaz de Leon Hermafios, M. Magana, 
Maxemin Hermanos, J. Kelly & Co., F. Echegureu Hermana 
y Sobrinos, J. De la Quintara & Co., Haas y Eucinas, F. 
Telleria & Co., T. Heyman & Co., Lewels &, Co., Vicente 
Ferreira y Co. (foundry) Calisher & Jacobs,. J. La Mazat- 
leca and J. Gallick Bros. &, Co., Lewis Loeseke, Ignacio 
Escudero, and many others, among whom we mention Senor 
Crouzet. 

The implements used in husbandry are of the most 
primitive character in some portions of the state. The 
plow consists of two poles, one six feet long, and the other 
fifteen feet, fastened together by the means of a mortice and 
tenon, at an angle of sixty-five degrees. Through, and 
near the end of the short pole, there is a pin to steady the 
plow; and on its end there is attached a pointed iron or steel 
shoe to prevent it from readily wearing out. The yoke has 
no bows, but is fastened on the heads of the cattle by means 
of raw-hide thongs, and so is the tongue of the plow to the 
yoke. With this rude instrument the ground is merely 
scratched over about three inches in depth, and yet the soil 
yields marvelously. The scythe, the cradle or the sickle, 
even, are unknown in some places, with the hoe, or any 
other common implement of husbandry. Reapers and 
threshing machines are not even dreamed of in some iso- 
lated instances ; but they have been introduced in many of 
the states of the republic. Here is a rare chance for our 
agricultural implement manufacturers almost at their doors. 

About one-twelfth of the population of Mazatlan is white, 
and can trace their origin back to their Spanish ancestors. 
Many blondes are seen who are direct descendants of the old 
Castilians. Li this city there are several wealthy merchants, 
of difierent nations, who import goods largely from Europe, 
many of which we have mentioned already. There are also 
Mexican capitalists who have extensive ranchos and hacien- 
das in the country, even one hundred miles back in the in- 
terior, and pass a part of their time in town. English and 
German goods seem to be most used, and generally in de- 
mand; also French brandies and wines; but few articles man- 
ufactured in the United States are shipped into any of the 
Mexican ports on the Pacific, although an extensive trade 
vv^ith New York, Philadelphia, and Boston is springing up 
by vessels and is landed at the ports on the eastern coast or 
Gulf of Mexico. On the completion of the Texas and Pacific 
7 



98 

and other railroads connecting with the east, a large trade 
will be established with the large eastern cities of the United 
States. 

The principal business houses are engaged in both a whole- 
sale and retail trade, dividing their stores into two depart- 
ments. The principal buildings are the custom-house, a new 
church, municipalidad or city hall, containing court-rooms, 
etc.; Cuartel de Artilleria or barracks for the military, a 
cotton factory, gas works, and the hotels ' ' Iturbide ' ' and 
"Nacional." 

Some trade has been carried on with San Francisco; in 
fact, much more than is suspected by many of our merchants. 
Two iron foundries are located here that have considerable 
trade. 

Rosario. 

The town has 6,000 inhabitants and takes its name from 
the Rosario mines in the vicinity. These mines are some of 
the oldest in the republic, and have produced an immense 
treasure for the owners. The shafts are now full of water. 
The Tajo mine by its richness is a great source of wealth to 
the town. This town is a place of considerable importance, 
and at one time was the depot of merchandise of Mazatlan. 
The merchants resorted to it to purchase their stock of goods 
and dispose of produce. It was the residence of the Com- 
missary General of the state, and others high in official au- 
thority. The streets are narrow but well paved, and the 
houses built principally of stone. The town is located in a 
ravine, and much confined. The Rosario River, a small 
stream, runs below the town and empties into the Pacific a 
few miles further below. This stream is navigable for 
canoes from Rosario, by which people frequently go to Ma- 
zatlan, the distance by water being shorter. This town has 
considerable trade with Durango and some from Guadalajara. 
The distance to Mazatlan is 20 leagues or 60 miles, the Pre- 
sidio of Mazatlan being a kind of half-way house or posta. 
The place is simply a large square surrounded by merchants' 
houses. The distance to Mazatlan Presidio is about 30 
miles. In the northern part of the state the road from Ala- 
mos in Sonora runs over a level plain when it leaves the roll- 
ing hills, and requires no repairing, as the soil is made of 
sandy clay, almost without a pebble, and is perfectly even 
and smooth. The surface is level and excellent for coaches. 
The distance from Alamos to Fuerte is about 35 miles. 



99 
Culiacan. 

The capital of the state of Sinaloa, Culiacan, is situated 
on a river of the same name, in the midst of a beautiful 
and rich agricultural country. The population of the city 
is about 10,000; its streets, with a great plaza, are laid out 
regularly, and it possesses much inland trade. The archi- 
tecture and buildings are much the same as at Mazatlan. 

The state government is located here, and during the ses- 
sion of the legislature, it presents a more lively appearance. 
The distance from Mazatlan is about 155 miles, and the 
intervening distance between, over the route by Cosala, is 
rough and mountainous, with but few ranchos on the line of 
travel. Cotton, sugar-cane, corn, beans, and rice, and vege- 
tables of various kinds, and fruits common to this climate 
and a low latitude, are grown in great abundance in the 
vicinity. There are also some mines in the neighborhood. 
Cofiee is also raised in the state, and brings from 30 to 40 
cents per pound. The importation of coffee has at times 
been forbidden, in order to develop this industry in the 
state. 

There is a cotton factory in Cuhacan, owned by Redo, 
who resides in the same town, and is one of the principal 
capitalists. A stage road runs from Alamos, in Sonora, to 
Mazatlan — a five days' trip — also to Culiacan, as before 
stated. 

There is also a mint in Culiacan. The principal business 
houses are. Redo, Valadez, O. Salmon, Robert R. Symon 
& Co., and Angel XJrrea. Considerable business is trans- 
acted here. The road, after leaving Alamos, which is 
mountainous, or a rolling region, becomes almost level as it 
goes south to Fuerte, and passes down the interior about 60 
miles from the coast, through the same level country, to Mazat- 
lan. It also passes down a valley in the interior, beyond the 
mountains east of the former road, to Culiacan, over a very 
level road. 

The Presidio of Mazatlan is located on the road to Ro- 
sario, and was formerly the principal place of residence for 
the merchants and custom house officers, who removed to 
Mazatlan, and left it almost deserted, with the exception 
of a large cotton factory which is there, owned by Eche- 
guren & Co., of Mazatlan; and besides the operatives, the 
town has but few inhabitants. 

The ladies of Culiacan are truly celebrated for their fair 
complexion, graceful forms, and modest demeanor. They 



100 

are very fond of music and dancing, and play very skillfully 
on the Iiarp, and are, withal, as intelligent and captivating 
as any of the famous beauties of the republic. On the road 
to Culiacan from Fuerte are situated Sinaloa, and Mocorito, 
and La Muerito. 

Cosala. 

The town of Cosala is situated about 60 miles from Culi- 
acan, to the south-east, and nearly 100 miles from Mazatlan. 
The town extends over nearly as much ground as the latter; 
but it is more interspersed with flower-gardens and small 
orchards. The town is well built; but the streets are some- 
what irregular. The number of inhabitants reaches 5,000. 
Cosala is a mining district. Within about 20 miles of the 
town, is located the Guadalupe mine, which is perfectly dry, 
and at a good elevation from the plain. 

The mines of Copala, Panucho, San Dimag, and San Igna- 
cio are the principal ones located in the vicinity. The 
Saragossa mine is situated north-east from Mazatlan and 
north of Cosala. This mine is celebrated for its beautiful 
specimens of virgin silver. 

In this town, a peculiar disease that is attributed to the 
water used exists, and is called " buche," and is known 
with us as goitre, or swelled neck. One traveler describes 
its unfortunate inhabitants as looking like pelicans. 

From Cosala to foot of mountains, the distance is 15 
miles due east. Santa Ana, a small rancho, and some 
others, are located on the road. There are some six mines 
near, bearing silver and magistral, and about one and a half 
miles from the town, the celebrated Golconda gold mine. 

The principal business of the state is mining, grazing, and 
the raising of herds of cattle, horses, mules, sheep, etc., al- 
though the agricultural productions are considerable. The 
mines of the state produce a large revenue. The Xocihuis- 
tita mine, situated near Eosario, was bonded for three months 
at $60,000, and the parties who had bonded it refused to 
renew the bond. In a short time afterward the owners sold 
a one-half interest for |500,000 to American capitalists of 
San Francisco, who are now taking out from |50,000 to 
$60,000 per month. Some ladies at Mazatlan were the 
owners. Estacata is another old mine near Cosala that was 
once extremely rich. Tradition says that its owners were 
so rich and realized such fortunes from its possession that 
they used to lay down silver bricks for their ladies to tread 



101 

upon on their way to church, and then take them up again by 
their servants — a piece of extravagant gallantry somewhat un- 
heard of, even among the descendants of the Moctezumas. 
Some of the mines of Mexico are worked in what we would 
term an extravagant manner. The shafts in some instances 
are walled with timbers that are placed there for their im- 
perishable qualities, and often the wood selected is of the 
most valuable character, and being the nearest at hand is used 
with a prodigal hand. One old mine, we are told by a gen- 
tleman who explored it, to which he gave the name of the old 
San Jose mine, was literally lined with ebony. He showed 
us a piece of this wood which he extracted from the mine, 
and had made into a rough cane. The timbers were as 
sound almost as when they were placed in the mine, and 
were laid one upon the other along the walls of the shaft, and 
some 15 to 20 feet in length. The origin of the mine was 
unknown, and the mouth of the shaft had fallen in, covering 
it up entirely until another drift from a mine near it in search 
of a vein of ore was run until they came to the ebony walls 
of the shaft of the old mine. It was cleaned out — rubbish, 
etc., removed — and found to be very rich. The ebony alone 
would be worth a small fortune in this country. The haci- 
enda of La Labor, owned by the Laveagas, is situated about 
four miles from San Ignacio and contains 40,000 acres, about 
one-third of which can be cultivated. Sugar-cane, wheat, 
corn, and other productions have been raised upon its arable 
lands. It is located on the San Ignacio River, and the soil 
is very fertile. 

Mining Districts and Mines of Sinaloa. 

Rosario District. — The most important mine of this dis- 
trict is the celebrated Tajo mine, which is the second best 
producing mine in the state, and is located in a rolling 
country on the bank of the Rosario River. The depth 
reached two years ago was 1,200 feet, when ZJr. Geo. S. 
Montgomery, of this city, visited it, and we herewith give 
his representation of the mines of this district, and some 
others. 

This mine produces fair milling ore, with 60 per cent, 
gold; the balance, silver. The vein is six feet wide, until 
a bonanza is reached, that widens out the vein to about 100 
feet. They were then taking out ore in a bonanza that 
assayed, on an average, $120 per ton, and ran sometimes in 
first-class ore up to $1,000. This mine is owned by Mr. 



102 

Bradbury, of Oakland, and Mr. Kelly and other mercliauts 
of Mazatlan. This is one of the best equipped mines in the 
state. One stamp-mill of 30 stamps was working the ore, 
and since, a 20-stamp mill has been added. The 30-stamp 
mill was then working 40 tons per day, which, with the 20- 
stamp mill now, is working about 60 to 70 tons per day. 
This mine is supporting about 6,000 population. There are 
other mines in this disti'ict of minor importance. The dis- 
tance to Mazatlan is about 80 miles, in a north-westerly di- 
rection. 

riomosas District. — The principal mine is the Plomo- 
sa, located in this district near the border of Durango, and 
is owned by a Mazatlan Company, with the controlling in- 
terest in the hands of merchants of that city. The mine is 
valued at $1,200,000, and is divided into 24 shares, the 
usual number in Mexican mines. Mr. La Madrid was the 
former owner. The depth of the mine is over 800 feet; 
width of vein, 20 to 25 feet, well defined and apparently 
permanent. This mine has paid from the start, although 
the ore is somewhat rebellious, which could not be worked 
as easily as within the last year. The ores carried galena 
and zinc. The average assay was about $80 to $90 per ton, 
and is worked by a 20-stamp mill at the mine. This district 
is about 80 miles south-east from Mazatlan. 

The Xocihuistita mine is located about 40 miles east of Ro- 
sario, in the district of Plomosas. A one-half interest in this 
mine was purchased for $500,000 by San Francisco capitalists. 
The ore of this mine has assayed about 50 per cent, silver. 
The vein, at a depth of about 250 feet, is 40 feet wide, and 
contains a small percentage of gold and galena. The mine 
has been worked for some years by Mexicans. The super- 
intendent of the Guadalupe de Los Reyes negotiated the sale 
of this mine, being the principal owner. They have worked 
the mine by a 10-stamp mill; but are now erecting a 20- 
stamp mill, and are by the old stamp mill producing from 
$50,000 to $60,000 per month. The ore is rebellious, and is 
consequently more expensive to work than the ores of many 
other mines in the state; but the large percentage of silver 
makes it a very profitable mine. The distance from this 
mine to Mazatlan is about 80 miles. 

The Santa Maria mine is also located in this district and is 
reputed to be a very good mine. 

The Panueho District. — The Santa Rosa mine is the 
principal mine, and was abandoned for some time until it 
was lately opened again, when a bonanza was reached within 



103 

the last few days that the " El Minero Mexicano" — the offi- 
cial mining paper — says is yielding richly. The ores have 
been rebellious and the vein small, hitherto. 

Copala District. — This district is located about 60 miles 
north-east from Mazatlan, near the border line of Duraugo. 
The mines of this district are mostly controlled by foreign- 
ers. The principal mines are the Cuarto de Senores and 
the Cinco de Senores — besides the Cinco de Mayo and 
Siempre Viva. 

The Cuarto de Senores was first owned and developed by 
Mr. Wm. Best, of Best and Belcher fame. It is now 
owned and worked by merchants, the principal of which 
are Messrs. Kelly & Co. The depth of this mine has reached 
700 feet. The vein widens out from 20 to 30 feet in thick- 
ness to 100 feet — inclination, almost perpendicular. The 
rich ore is found in pockets, and is broken off at irregular dis- 
tances by "caballos," which separate the vein, or divide it 
into sections. On passing through the caballo, the ore is 
found invariably to be bonanzas, which assay from $300 to 
$500 per ton. At the depth of 700 feet, six bonanzas have 
been reached. The mine was opened near the summit of 
the mountain, on the side, about 400 feet from the creek or 
arroyo Copala. Since reaching the water level, much water 
has been coming in, and the pumps are kept in constant mo- 
tion. A 10-stamp mill reduces the ore at the mine. 

The Cinco de Senores mine is located near the Cuarto, 
which has reached a depth of 400 feet; width of vein, three 
to six feet; and is well defined, and ore more continuous, 
without pockets. The ore is quartz, carrying antimony and 
zinc in the whole district; consequently the ores are rebel- 
lious, but carry 40 per cent, gold and balance silver. The 
average assay is somewhat over $100, reaching to $120 per 
ton. This mine is owned by two merchants in Cosala and 
three in Mazatlan. 

The Zaragossa District. — The principal mine of this 
district is the "Zaragossa," and is very celebrated for its 
beautiful specimens of native silver, which are found in 
small bonanzas in a narrow vein. This mine is principally 
owned by Mexicans, who extract the ore with chisels and 
the ' ' barraton. 

The San Ignacio District is located on the San Ignacio 
Eiver, and its mines are scattering. The principal mine is 
owned by Mr. Kelly, who ships a large part of the ore of 
best class to England. The depth of the mines worked is 
about 500 feet; width of vein, from two to six feet. The 



104 

best ore reaches as high as $700 per ton or thereabouts. 
The average reaches about $200. The ore is sorted into 
first or best class and second class; the latter is reduced at 
the mine. There are a number of mines in this district 
worked by Mexicans, some of which are reported to be 
rich. 

Cosala District. — This is the largest district in the state, 
and some of the mines are celebrated for their rich ores, 
among which may be mentioned the Guadalupe de los lieyes 
group, the principal of which is sometimes called the Esta- 
cata mine. 

The group of mines called the Guadalupe de Los Reyes 
contains the Estacata rojne, and is located on the side of a 
mountain in the Sierra Madre range, about midway or 400 
feet above the creek. The depth attained in this mine is 
1,200 feet; width of vein, 30 varas. The vein on the sur- 
face was only three inches in thickness. This gradually wid- 
ened and'was clearl_y defined, until an ore body was reached 
at a depth of 400 feet, which proved to be a bonanza. The 
vein was rich from the surface, bearing 60 per cent, gold Sind 
40 per cent, silver. The assay of the bonanza ore was less 
than the vein before the ore-body was reached, as the former 
sometimes reached $600 or $700 per ton, while the latter 
only reached $200 per ton; the gold and silver being finely 
disseminated through the ore body. The first ore body, j udg- 
ing from the development of the mine, was from 40 to 60 
feet wide, and extended down for about 300 feet, when it 
became narrower, and tapered into the original width of the 
vein. From this point, the vein was again followed for over 
100 feet, when another ore body was found larger than the 
first. The second ore body proved to be 30 varas wide, of 
continuous ore, and a veritable bonanza, with an average 
assay of $250 per ton, in some instances reaching $2,000 
per ton. The work is now progressing in this vein, 
which was reached over 18 months ago. The princi- 
pal owners are Echeguren & Co., of Mazallan. It is said 
that this mine has produced $18,000,000, by the records at 
Cosala. Two stamp mills, one 20 and the other 10, reduce 
the ore at the mine. 

The mines of this district, called the Bufa, Mammoth, La 
Estrella, Realito, and the Mina del Agua, are owned by a 
San Francisco company, called the Mexican Mining and 
Real Estate Company, of Cosala, of Siualoa, of wliich Mr. 
Geo. S. Montgomery was the superintendent for two years. 
This is the second largest company in the district, and the 



105 

mines owned by this company are all old mines, formerly 
worked by Mexicans for the last 150 years. 

We are indebted to Mr. Montgomery, the superintend- 
ent, for the following description of their mines — he being 
a stockholder of the company — as follows: 

•' The Estrella and the Bufa are the two principal mines, 
and have reached a depth of about 500 feet. The ore body 
of the Estrella is 28 varas in width, extending over 40 feet 
in length. The vein dips at an angle of 45 degrees. All the 
way down, the vein has averaged the same width, and is one 
of the largest in the district. The average assay is about 
$115 per ton, running all the way from $50 to $400. The 
mines are dry, being located above the Sierra Creek, 900 
feet, on the side of a mountain. 

" The Realito is developed by a long tunnel, running into 
the side of the mountain, about 500 feet above the bottom 
of the ravine, tapping the vein, which is about three feet 
wide, and is well defined. The assay reaches from $180 to 
$500 per ton. This mine is about one-quarter of a mile 
distant from the other two before mentioned. 

" The Mammoth is called a promontory, and opens into 
a large body of quartz, striking the center, apparently, of a 
massive lode. No walls of any other formation have been 
found as far as developed — a very singular formation — and 
Mr. Montgomery terms it a mountain of silver-bearing 
quartz. '1 his mine has been worked by Mexicans for over 
150 years. The shaft, or rather walls, of the chamber op- 
ened are 120 feet apart, and the depth reaches 200 feet from 
the surface — an immense cellar, with silver-bearing quartz 
on all sides. It is estimated that this lode extends from the 
center, as far as has been ascertained, 200 feet on each side, 
or 400 feet in diameter. . The average assay is about $80 per 
ton, reaching, in some instances, $140. The ore is more 
even, and without pockets, with gold and silver dissemi- 
nated finely through it. 

"Besides these mines owned by the last-mentioned company, 
they have purchased twelve square miles of land surround- 
ing their hacienda or reduction works, which consist of a 15- 
stamp mill, and another of 20 stamps, in course of construc- 
tion. The same company have also purchased a controlling 
interest in 100 square miles adjoining, both of which tracts 
were purchased from Mexican citizens. 

" The Rosario Mine is located about three miles south-west 
from Cosala, and possesses a vein about from five to seven 
feet wide, and is clearly defined. The depth attained is 300 



106 

feet. The assay reaches an average, we are told, from $160 
to $180 per ton. The upper levels or drifts are only worked, 
the lower ones being full of water." 

Cosala. — This district contains mostly rebellious silver 
ores in all the mines, with the single exception of the Guad- 
alupe de los Reyes Mine, which latter is the only one con- 
taining free milling ores. 

The Golconda Gold Mine, is a celebrated mine, and a 
phenomenon. It is located within one-and-a-half miles of the 
town of Cosala, in a north-westerly direction. The lowest 
shaft is not over 120 feet in depth. The formation of the 
rock on this lode is of the same nature and character as the 
Black Hills, viz., a rotten quartz formation, carrying free 
gold, finely disseminated all through the ores, and is conse- 
quently easily reduced by mill and the usual amalgamating 
process. The ore contains only free gold, with no traces of 
silver. It is estimated that 200 stamps would not work in 
fifty years, the amount of ore in sight. This celebrated 
mine, which appears to be inexhaustible, is located in a 
low range of hills, bordering a spur of the Sierra Madre 
Mountains, about one-and-a-half miles beyond or north-west 
of Cosala town, with a natural grade reaching it. The ore 
of this mine lays in an immense lode, extending from the 
surface down as far as the mine has been developed. The 
depth of the shafts are 70, 80, and 120 feet, some three or 
four of which have been sunk at a distance of from 300 to 
400, and 500 feet apart. The extent of possession is 1,200 
varas, or about 3,300 feet. Each of the shafts have struck 
the same lode, developing the same ore. This mine is 
similar to the famous Mulatos Mine in Sonora, in many 
particulars. 

The Golconda gold mine of the Cosala district has already 
been noticed, and having received later information that may 
be of interest, we give the same as follows: Mr. Henry S. 
McKee, who is now working in the mine, reports that one of 
the shafts at 120 feet has struck ore that assays in gold over 
$300 per ton. The body of ore in sight is thirty feet thick 
without reaching the walls. The character of the ore is 
free gold quartz with no streaks or pockets, but the metal is 
finely disseminated through it. The ore is easy of reduc- 
tion and is worked by the usual process. This mine has a 
history that reaches back over 150 years. It has been 
worked almost continuously during all this period, except 
when interfered with by local disturbances or revolutions. 
The mine was once purchased by a foreigner who bought it 



"107 

of a Mexican for $80,000, Mr. Harpending of Sail Francisco 
being the purchaser. He sent an expert from this city — a 
brother of Mr. Smith, of tlie firm of Pendergast & Smith, 
of the -^tna Foundry, wlio examined the mine, and report- 
ed, after experimenting with 200 "cargas," that the mine 
was a very profitable investment, and, indeed, would war- 
rant the erection of extensive reduction works on account of 
its apparent richness. Mr. Harpending would have done 
so, had he not become financially embarrassed, so much so 
that the enterprise was abandoned, and all the money in- 
vested, notwithstanding the report of the expert. The 
present owners of this mine intend to continue its develop- 
ment, but are somewhat crippled for the lack of capital suf- 
ficient to work the mine on a large scale. They are now 
working it by the arastra and usual amalgamating process. 
The ores have been extracted in large bodies in each shaft, 
and seem to be inexhaustible. 

The mine is located in what is called a promontory or 
huge mass of quartz, that seems to be a ledge of paying 
ore throughout the whole extent of possession. The lowest 
assay of the ore selected at random from either of the shafts 
never falls below $20 per ton, and from that reaches up to 
$300 per ton. There is, apparently, no defined vein, as the 
walls have not been reached on either side, the whole mass 
of quartz presenting the face of the vein as far as worked ; 
consequently, huge holes have apparently been sunk into the 
center of the vein about 20 feet wide, extending the whole 
depth of the shafts. 

We are told that the outcroppings of this mine assay any- 
where never below $20 per ton. The soil, even, overlaying 
the ledge, has been panned for some years, and continually 
gives the color in each pan, often paying well. The ore 
was formerly worked by crushing the rock in the arastras 
and then panning the result without amalgamating. 

This mine has in the vicinity, timber and water in abun- 
dance, and suflicient water to run a mill by water-power all 
the year round. The mine is located on a slope inclining 
toward the stream, or Cosala River, which empties into 
Elota River. In a distance of 100 yards the fall is about 12 
feet, and by running a ditch about 500 yards, will give a fall 
of at least 20 feet. The site of erection for the mill is located 
about one mile from the mine, farther down the slope, and 
within one-half mile of the center of the town of Cosala. 
Extensive reduction works might be here erected, to be 
run by water power or steam; and with a 40-stamp mill, cal- 



108 

culatiug its reduction power to be at least two tons for each 
stamp, 80 tons per clay might be reduced, averaging, at least, 
$30 per ton, would produce daily about $2,400, or at least, 
$70,000 per month. This is a very liberal estimate, from 
the fact, that the ore has been known to produce on an aver- 
age, at least, from $50 to $80 per ton, which would amount 
to $6,000 per day, or $180,000 per month, or about $2,600,- 
000 per annum. The cost of working the mine would not 
amount to more than $3 per ton, at the farthest, which would 
leave an enormous profit. 

The Nuestra Senores mine is located north-east of Cosala, 
on the Elota liiver, near the source, and almost on the 
boundary line, and is owned by Mauricio La Madrid, and is 
about 20 miles from Cosala. This mine contains two classes 
of ore; one being lead and silver, while the other is free 
milling silver ore. The depth attained is about 200 feet. 
The lead-bearing ore assays about $80 per ton, and the free- 
milling ore nearly $120, on an average. This mine is 
reported to have reached a "bonanza " that assays as high 
as $1,000 per ton. • An attempt was lately made to purchase 
this mine for $500,000, an expert having been sent to exam- 
ine the property, who reported very favorably upon it. A 
small, four-stamp prospecting mill, for the purpose of pros- 
pecting the mine, has been reducing the ore, and the result 
is said to have been very satisfactory. This is an old mine, 
and very celebrated; and Mr. Ward tells us that its former 
owner, Don Francisco Iriarte, at one time (in 1825) refused 
an otter of $1,000,000 for the privilege of working this mine 
for three years, by a foreign association. The mine is free 
from water, and situated at a considerable elevation above 
the plain. It contains a vein of gold of considerable 
breadth, and its former reputation was fabulous. 

Barreteras Mine. — This mine is celebrated. The town 
of Cosala was built up by it, and a church founded upon its 
productions. The mine has produced many bonanzas, 
yielding rich results. The character of the ore is native 
silver. The mine is developed by a shaft of 500 feet in 
depth, and by a tunnel over 1100 feet in length, from the 
side of the mountain into the heart of the vein. The mine 
is located at the summit of the mountain, in the Sierra 
Madre, distant from Cosala about six miles west. The view 
is grand from this point, extending over a hundred miles, as 
far as the eye can reach, over mountain-tops. The vein is 
about two feet in ore deposits. It reaches only six or eight 
inches with seams of native silver, that are extracted by the 



109 

barraton, or a chisel. The pockets reach, sometimes, 20 or 
30 feet along the vein at irregular distances. The mine is 
owned and worked by Mexicans, The character of the rock 
surrounding the vein is a granite formation, easily worked. 
The ore is smelted by furnaces. The ore is almost virgin 
silver, as at Batopilas. The lower levels are filled with 
water. 

At one extremity of the district of Cosala is found a great 
number of gold and silver bearing quartz mines that are said 
to be very rich. The ore carrying gold is mostly free mill- 
ing, and the mines have yielded very largely in the past. 
They have been worked extensively by natives and Span- 
iards; but on reaching water, could not go any farther, in 
the absence of machinery, and the mines were consequently 
abandoned, after a large expenditure of capital upon them. 
Another cause of abandonment was continual revolutions, or 
organized robbery, that forced the owners to pay a tribute 
on their wealth, and at last drove them away; and either 
fearing to return, or finding lucrative employment and 
mines elsewhere, the mines, consequently, became entirely 
abandoned and filled with water. 

There are many of these old mines closely grouped to- 
gether that are not adjacent to any settlements, but in the 
midst of one oi the wildest regions of the mountains, that 
is hardly ever entered, save in the search for lost cattle. 
A good wagon-road may be constructed from these mines 
to the river, and reach a railroad that is to be built, passing 
within 15 miles of the mines. Wood is abundant, and water 
sufficient to run an ordinary mill the year round. 

There are quite a number of extensive veins of rich gold 
and silver bearing ores in this region that have yielded 
largely wherever they have been worked, within a radius 
of 12 miles, and all contain ores easy of reduction. 

To the east of this locality is located another rich mineral 
region, called Vetillas, from the large number of rich veins 
that have been found in the neighborhood. The ores are 
more uneven and rebelhous; but the location is good, with 
a perpetual stream passing through the district and adjacent 
to the location of the mines. The mountains are of high 
elevation, with hard-wood trees covering their sides that 
would be valuable for timbering the mines, etc. Here are 
located furnaces for smelting the ores, which were aban- 
doned with the mines by the former owners. 

The celebrated Guadalupe de Los Reyes mine is located 
within about 24 miles of these antiquated haciendas, north- 



no 

east, and other mines that are being worked with good 
results. This is an old minir.g region, that was worked by 
Spaniards under the Spanish regime; but the owners were 
obliged to flee in the war for independence. The ruins of 
ancient arastras and furnaces are numerous, and prove the 
locality to have been extensively worked. These mines 
have not been worked for about 70 years. The old mill-site 
could be restored, and the mines reopened, providing an ex- 
pert should deem the enterprise profitable. The arastras 
were run by water power, and the veins opened as close as 
possible to the stream, which naturally filled the shafts with 
water. One of these old mines was called Mina de Plata. 
The residents nearest to these mines report that they were 
very rich, and contained bonanzas. 

The adjacent river bottoms are planted with orange, lime, 
and plantain trees in different places, with other tropical 
fruits. 

A wagon-road can be constructed from this point to Ma- 
zatlan, at a small cost, passing through or near large ranchos 
that are cultivated extensively, producing corn, beans, sugar- 
cane, and other productions. This region is located north 
from Mazatlan, distant about 70 miles. 

The Palmarajo is another old district; also, the ancient 
mining district situated in the northern part of the State 
near the boundary line of Sonora, called the De Chois and 
Ycora districts, that were, at one time, extensively worked, 
and contains some good mines; also, the celebrated ancient 
mining district of San Jose de Gracias, which is located in 
the midst of an almost inaccessible mountainous region, in 
the northern part of the State. Since their abandonment 
years ago, they have scarcely been worked but by gambu- 
cinos. This region formerly had a fabulous reputation. 



CHIBXTAHTJA. 



CHAPTER I. 
General Description. 

The State of Chihuahua is bounded on the west and south 
by Sonora, west by Sinaloa, on the north by 'New Mexico 
and Texas, and on the north-east by Texas along the Rio 
Grande, and on the south by Sinaloa and Durango, and on 
the east by Coahaila. The area of the State extends over 
100,000 square miles, with a sparse population of about 
190,000. 

The state is divided into 18 cantons or departments, as 
follows: Iturbide, Aldama, Abasolo, Victorio, Rosales, 
Meoqui, Morelos, Bravos, Hidalgo, Alleude, Camargo, Balleza, 
Jimenez, Guerrero, Galeana, Rayon, Matamoras, and Ar- 
teaga. 

The great plateau west of the Rio Grande region consists 
of undulating prairies, with here and there a conical shaped 
hill, and extends to the Sierra Madre mountains on the 
west and south-west. There are some depressions in the 
plains which, if opened, would supply water. Then we 
have the large body of water south-west of El Paso, known 
as Lake Guzman, and the River Mimbres. This river rises 
in the Rocky Mountains, in iSTew Mexico, and, after cours- 
ing through the plateau, discharges itself when full into 
Lake Guzman. It seldom reaches the lake, however, its 
waters being absorbed or lost in the sandy plains. Its 
sources have never been traced out, as far as kuown. It 
must flow about 130 miles, when full. 

Lake Guzman, during the wet season, is about 30 miles 
long and from five to six miles wide, and seldom dries out 
entirely, although it is almost surrounded by sterile tracts 
of land covered with sand plains and alkali, interspersed 
with sand-hills. It is located about 60 miles south-west of 
El Paso, more in a westerly direction. These sand plains 
extend the most of this distance, after leaving the Rio 
Grande region, until the neighboring lands of the lake are 
reached. 

Ill 



112 

The whole water system of the state embraces, besides Lake 
Guzman, four other small lakes or pools, called Maria, Cande- 
laria, St. Martin, and Patos, and are all located north of the 
central part of the state, in depressions of the table lands, 
with the exception of lakes St. Martin and Candelaria, nearer 
the center and south and south-west of the sand plains. In 
the mountain ranges and spurs of the Sierra which are cut 
with deep gorges and canons, and which are located in the 
western, south-western and southern part of the state, there 
are many mines of the precious and useful metals, containing 
gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, tin, saltpeter, bituminous 
coal, and cinnabar. This region is also noted for forest trees 
of great value which cover the mountain sides, especially 
near the water-courses and between the ranges. The Sierra 
Madre range extends along the western boundary of the 
state, and is almost impassable except at the northern and 
western, south-western, and southern, part of the state, 
through the canons of these localities. The Mulatos River, 
sometimes called the Papigochi, which is a branch of the 
Yaqui River in Sonora, rises in the Sierra Madre, south-west 
of Chihuahua City, and flows north-west through a pass in 
the mountains east of, and near Aribechi in Sonora. The 
tributaries from the neighboring valleys flow into this stream 
(Mulatos) near the pass. The river Buenaventura also rises 
in the Sierra Madre and flows north of the Presidio of Bu- 
enaventura into the small lake or pool of St. Maria, while 
another small stream loses its waters in the table lands near 
the Presidio de Janos, which is connected with a road to 
Bapispe in Sonora on the west, about 40 miles distant. The 
river Carmen rises west of lake St. Martin and empties into 
lake Patos in a northerly direction. South-east of lake 
Patos is located another extensive sand and alkali plain on 
the table lauds that reache to the hills bordering on the 
valley of the Rio Grande and the river Conchos, over a terri- 
tory of about 120 miles long and 40 wide. The latter river 
has many tributaries taking their rise in the mountains south 
of the central part of the state, and flows by Santa Rosalia, 
San Pablo, and other towns in a northerly course, with many 
windings, into the Rio Grande at the Presidio del Norte, 
and is about 300 miles long. East and south-east of the riv- 
er Conchos and south of the Rio Grande extends the vast 
desert called "Bolson de Mapimi," which embraces all the 
extreme eastern part of the state south of the Rio Grande 
and also a portion of the state of Coahuila on the east. In 
this plain are dried-up lakes, and the whole is completely 



113 

covered up with a vast tract of sand and alkali plains which 
are sterile and completely deserted, and entirely destitute of 
water. JSTear the rugged sierras are mesquite - covered 
plains, but beyond them lies the vast desert of Bolson de 
Mapimi, extending over 250 miles from north to south and 
100 miles in width, through which no traveler ever passes, 
as the road to Durango and Mexico lies to the south-west. 
Thus it will be seen that a large portion of Chihuahua is 
absorbed on the east by the desert lauds, and north-east and 
the south-west by mountains and broken regions, the latter 
taking up about oue-third of the state, and the former, or 
about one-fourth, is desert wilds. The balance of the region 
on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande to the Gulf of Mex- 
ico is mountainous through Coahuila, l^ew Leon, and Ta- 
maulipas, bordering on table lands that are intersected with 
rivers flowing through small valleys into the Rio Grande, 
and is very sparsely settled until the slope toward the gulf is 
reached. 

On the Rio Grande is located Laredo in the state of Ta- 
maulipas, which has assumed some importance on account 
of the Mexican Central terminating at that point, passing 
through Monterey, Kew Leon, and other cities on the direct 
route to Mexico City, 

Mr. Ruxton says that "the State of Chihuahua produces 
gold, silver, copper, iron, saltpetre, and other minerals; but 
it is productive of mineral wealth alone, for the soil is thin 
and poor, and there is everywhere a scarcity of water; but 
it is a paradise for sportsmen. In the sierras and mountains 
are found the black and grizzly bear of the Rocky Mount- 
ains, the latter of which is very abundant in the neighbor- 
hood of Chihuahua. The big horn, or Rocky Mountain 
sheep, and black-tailed deer, the ' cola prieta,' (a large spe- 
cies of fallow deer) a species of pheasant and quail in abund- 
ance, and birds of brilliant plumage are found. Among the 
reptiles are the rattlesnake and copper-head, and scorpion, the 
latter of which is found all over the republic. The charac- 
teristic shrub of the elevated plains of Chihuahua is the 
mesquite, a species of acacia, which grows to the hei ght of 
10 to 12 feet. The seeds contained in a small pod are used 
by the Apaches to make a kind of bread or cake, which is 
sweet or succulent to the taste. The wood is extremely 
hard and heavy. 

" In Duraugo and Chihuahua, the ranchos are supplied with 
such simple goods as they require by small traders, resident 
in the capitals of those states, who trade from one village to 



114 

another, with two or three wagons, which, when their goods 
are sold, they freight with supphes for the cities or mines." 
There are about 200 villages and towns in the state, the 
principal ones being Chihuahua and El Paso del Norte. The 
former is the capital, and is located south of the central 
portion of the state, about 230 miles from El Paso del Norte 
and El Paso Texas on the Rio Grande. 

Soil, Productions, and Grazing. 

The soil is fertile, especially on the water courses between 
the mountain ranges and along the Rio Grande. Outside of 
mining, grazing forms the principal pursuit; though the 
vine, wheat, corn, peas, beans, barley, cotton, and sugar- 
cane, are cultivated to some extent. This is a great grazing 
state, abounding in stock, which are disposed of in Texas 
and Kentucky. Good grazing is found on the table lands in 
many places, where immense herds of stock of all kinds are 
raised: although along the water-courses the best grazing is 
found. Along the Las Casas Grandes, and Conchas, and 
other streams, which almost entirely disappear in the sands 
during the dry* season, immense herds of stock are raised. 
In the neighborhood of Chihuahua, about 170 to 180 miles 
south-east of Lake Guzman, are located extensive ranchos. 
One of these is owned by Don Encinallas. This rancho has 
about 300,000 head of cattle, sheep, horses and mules, on its 
grazing lands. Some agricultural productions are also raised 
in the state on the banks of the streams which are used to 
irrigate the lands. 

The mines of the State constitute almost its sole feature of 
importance, outside of the grazing or raising of stock on the 
fertile table lands and banks of the water-courses. The 
climate of Chihuahua is varied; cold in the winter, and in 
the mountainous districts it reaches the freezing point; and 
snow falls about two feet deep. Li the valleys the tempera- 
ture varies from the cool and pleasant in winter to heat 
in the extreme. The climate of the state on the whole can 
be said to be much cooler than either that of Sonora or 
Sinaloa. 



115 

CHAPTER n. 
Chihuahua. 

The city of Chihuahua is the capital of the State, and is 
located west of the Conches River near the center of 
the state, and is distant from Mexico, in a direct line, 
about 1,250 miles; from El Paso, in a south-west direction, 
about 230 miles; and from Guaymas, by way of Baleza, in 
Chihuahua, and Alamos, in Sonora, 500 miles. It is reached 
by a stage or wagon road from El Paso, on the north, and 
Laredo on the Rio Grande, on the east in Tamaulipas — the 
projected terminus of the Mexican Central R. R. — byway 
of Durango; and Mexico on the south-east, byway ofDu- 
rango, a direct line of communication being opened to all 
of these points. From Alamos, through Batopilas, it is 
about 230 miles. 

The road through to Alamos has not yet been put into 
complete condition for wagons; hence, the most of the travel 
in that direction is on the back of mules. The city of Chi- 
huahua was built toward the close of the seventeenth cen- 
tury, although the State was originally inhabited and occu- 
pied at Las Casas Grandes by the Aztecs many centuries 
ago. N"o one knows the date, farther than by the records 
of the ancients, which say that the state was occupied by 
the Aztecs at that place in 1160, or over seven centuries 
ago. 

The city of Chihuahua is well laid out, with the streets 
crossing each other at right angles. They are broad, well 
paved, and kept quite clean. The square called the Plaza 
Mayor is quite extensive, and ornamented on one side by 
the famous cathedral, which has been pronounced by 
American traders to be one of the finest structures in the 
world. This building cost $800,000, and is constructed of 
brown stone masonry. It is surmounted with a dome and 
two towers, and is in imitation of the modern Gothic, 
mingled with the Moorish style of architecture. It is a 
large building, having a handsome fagade embellished with 
statues of the Twelve Apostles. 

On the other side of the Plaza, there are public and pri- 
vate buildings, including the ancient State House. 

The unfinished Convent of San Francisco also looms up 
from the other buildings, a " conspicuous mass of masonry and 
bad taste," says Mr. Ruxton. lu the center of the plaza, 
which is adorned with flowers and orange and other trop- 



116 

ical trees and shrubs, a beautiful fountain plays day and 
night, which is supplied with water continually by a well- 
constructed aqueduct a httle over three miles long, which 
carries water from a tributary of the Conchos River or 
stream. This aqueduct supplies the town with water, and 
is supported on several stupendous arcades, which adds 
much to the massive architecture in the town. 

The large cathedral was built out of the proceeds from 
one mine in the vicinity, which struck a bonanza that con- 
tinued for nine years, and was apparently inexhaustible. 
One real was laid aside for each marc of silver produced, 
and a fund was formed, out of which this magnificent cathe- 
dral of Chihuahua was built, and a reserve fund formed of 
$100,000. A mint is also located here. Much trade is car- 
ried on between this city and San Antonio, Texas, and St. 
Louis, and Santa ¥4. It is also the resort of many strangers 
from New Mexico, California, Texas, Sonora, and Sinaloa. 
The city contains about 18,000 inhabitants. The Jesuit 
Convent of San Francisco before mentioned is celebrated as 
having been the place of confinement of the patriot Hidalgo, 
the Mexican Hampden, who was executed in a yard behind 
the building, in 1811. A monument has been erected to 
his memory in the Plaza de Armas, and is a pyramid of 
stone, with an inscription eulogistic of his character and 
patriotic record. 

The shops are filled with goods from the various points 
before mentioned, and it is not unusual to find the finest of 
imported silks, and other costly articles from Europe and 
India. Traders arriving in Chihuahua either sell their 
goods in bulk to resident merchants, or open out a store on 
their own account. The goods are brought across the bor- 
der from the United States in wagons; and some years ago, 
a law was passed by the state, charging a duty of $500 for 
each wagon-load, without taking into account the value or 
nature of the articles. The result was, that one wagon was 
made to carry three loads, to evade the duty on two loads. 
This has been abohshed since, we understand, and the laws 
relating to duties are general throughout the republic. The 
city of Chihuahua suppHes all the surrounding country. 

Las Casas Grandes and its Iiegend. 

The famous Las Casas Grandes, or Great Houses, are 
located towards the north-western part of the state, on the 
west bank of the Las Casas Grandes River, which flows into 



• 117 

Rio los Conchos. Here lie, decomposing and moldering un- 
der the luxuriance of vegetable growth, the ruins of Aztec 
greatness. 

A legend is related by Spanish historians of the migration 
of the Aztecs to Chihuahua and Arizona, where a portion 
also located and built the Casas Grandes, ruins of which are 
now seen in that territory. The legend is found in the work 
of Antonio Garcia Cubas, and in the works of many other 
Spanish writers, and is as follows: 

'•Huitziton, a person of great authority among the Az- 
tecs, heard in the branches of a tree the trilling of a small 
bird, which in its song repeated the sound 'tihuc,' the lit- 
eral meaning of which is, 'let us go.' Huitziton being 
struck at this, and communicating his impressions to another 
personage, called Tecpaltzin, they both induced the Aztecs 
to leave their country, interpreting the song as a mandate 
from divinity. Even to the present day, there is a bird 
known among the Mexicans by the name of ' Tihuitochan ' 
(Let us go home). 

"In 1160 they commenced their peregrination, and passing 
by a large river in which historians concur in being the 
Colorado and which discharges itself into the Gulf of Cali- 
fornia, they advanced toward the river Gila, after remaining 
for some time at a place known to-day by the name of Casa 
Grande, not far from the shores of that river. From thence 
they continued their road and again took up quarters at a 
place to the north-west of Chihuahua, now called like the 
previous stopping place, Las Casas Grandes, and whose ruins 
show the vast proportions of the ancient building and fort- 
ress. Leaving behind them the wide " Sierra de la Tara- 
humara," they afterward went to Hueycolhuacan, now Culia- 
can, capital of the state of Sinaloa, and there remained for 
three years, during which time they made the statue of 
their god Huitzilopochtli, which was to accompany them in 
their expedition. 

"During their peregrination the tribe was divided into two 
factions, one faction settling on a sandy promontory called 
Tlaltelolco. The name of Mexico was given to the new city, 
in honor of their god who was born of a virgin belonging to 
the family of Citli, and he was cradled in the heart of a 
maguey plant (or metl) ; hence the name ' Mecitli, ' after- 
ward changed into 'Mexico.' The popular drink of the 
Mexican people is made from this same plant, and is called 
* mescal,' a strong intoxicating liquor." 

From the appearance of the Las Casas Grandes or the 



118 

great houses, it would seem that their outer proportions were 
the lowest, and not above one story high; while the central 
ones were from three to six stories high. The ruins are con- 
structed of adobe, though these are much larger than those 
in use among the Mexicans at the present day. From a 
report touching a close examination of Las Casas Grandes, it 
is to be inferred that they occupied a space of at least 800 
feet from north to south, and from east to west near 250. 
On the south side a regular and continuous wall or fortifica- 
tion may be traced, while the eastern and western fronts are 
extremely irregular, leaving projecting walls. Within the 
inclosure there appear to have been several court-yards of 
greater or less dimensions. Las Casas Grandes here resem- 
ble those near the Pimo villages on the Gila in Arizona. 
The town near, of the same name, has about 1,500 inhabit- 
ants. 



CHAPTER in. 

RIO GRANDE REGION. 

Near El Paso del l^orte there is a good agricultural coun- 
try. This town is located in the extreme north-western 
portion of the state on the Rio Grande. The products of 
this region are grapes, fruit, wheat, Indian corn, and other 
cereals. The bottom lands along the Rio Grande are ex- 
tremely rich, and extend back from the river about one 
mile; beyond this rolling hills into the table-lands, which con- 
tinue until broken by the valleys of the four lakes and their 
streams before mentioned. About 70 or 80 miles from El 
Paso del Norte, in the interior, in a southern direction, the 
land is sterile, as before mentioned. Then as the country 
nears Baranca, a small town situated east of Las Casas 
Grandes, the country grows better, and the soil extremely 
rich, in places. South of these sand plains there is a good 
grazing country. There is no water to be found near these 
sand plains, and water has to be carried in crossing them. 
The Rio Grande region extends along the Rio Grande the 
whole extent of the north-western boundary, and small 
towns are occasionally met with on the road, among which 
may be mentioned El Presidio del Norte, and San Vicente. 
Much stock is raised all along this region, and some agricul- 
tural productions. 



119 
El Paso del Norte. 

This town was named from the ford on the river and the 
pass between the mountains, and literally means the " pas- 
sage of the north." This is the oldest settlement in the 
northern part of Mexico. A mission was established here 
by El Padre Fray Augustin Ruiz, one of the Franciscan 
monks, about 1585. The colony was composed of twelve 
families from Old Castile, under the leadership of Don Juan 
Onate. Several years after the first settlement the Spanish 
colonists of JSTew Mexico were driven to this settlement, 
where they erected a fortification and maintained themselves 
until the arrival of reinforcements from Mexico. The pop- 
ulation of the place has not increased much since the year 
1848, as there were then 5,000 to 6,000 inhabitants — about 
the same number as now. The colony divided the lands 
bordering the banks of the river, into small plats of twenty 
acres each, and gave one to each family, on which they raised 
coru, potatoes, beans, and vegetables, and planted small 
vineyards and fruit trees; and the river was dammed up in 
dry seasons, about a mile above the ford, and water con- 
veyed by an aqueduct or main canal to irrigate the bottom 
lands. The whole settlement was intersected in every direc- 
tion with dikes. They manufactured the grapes into wine 
and brandy, or " aguadiente," the latter of which is much 
esteemed in Chihuahua and Durango. Under proper man- 
agement, wine-making here might become a very profitable 
branch of industry, for the soil is especially adapted for the 
vine, and the interior is supplied with French wines at an 
enormous price. Wine may be made of the El Paso grape, 
equal to the best growth of France or Spain. The river 
bottom is timbered with cottonwoods, where it is not culti- 
vated for a few hundred yards on each side of the stream. 

The town of El Paso del Norte is located opposite the 
town of El Paso, Texas, on the American side, and runs 
down the river about three miles, and back one mile. The 
region is thickly settled for several miles farther down, and 
back five miles from the river. There are a number of 
vineyards in a high state of cultivation. The town has two 
or three principal streets, on which most of the business is 
transacted. The streets are narrow, irregular and dusty. 
The houses are built of adobe, and the windows are barred 
with iron gratings. The doors are fastened with wooden 
bars inside, and are clumsy afiairs. Carts with large wheels, 
hewn from logs, are still used here — the same clumsy and 
heavy vehicles so often seen in Mexico. 



120 

This town, although presenting a somewhat unsightly ap- 
pearance to the visitor, is destined to be one of great im- 
portance, and will soon serve as the distributing point for 
the whole of north-western Mexico, including Sonora, Chi- 
huahua, Sinaloa, and Duraugo, on the completion of the rail- 
roads centering here. 

The Rio Grande River is a shallow, muddy, sluggish 
stream, and not over two or three feet deep at this point, 
during the dry season, but assumes large proportions in the 
wet season. The banks are low and sandy, and the course 
of the stream often changes, and, for this reason, the towns 
on its banks are mostly situated high up on its banks and 
on the neighboring plateaus or bluffs. The water in the 
river is very good for drinking and cooking purposes, and 
not so impregnated with alkali as the well water in use by 
the inhabitants. 

The river, at this point, is small, but in the time of the 
rainy season it swells to six times its width in the dry sea- 
son. It is fordable in almost any part, but from the shifting 
bars and quicksands, the passage is always difficult for load- 
ed wagons, and often very, dangerous. The stream abounds 
in large fish of an excellent flavor, and large eels. During 
the rainy season the ford is crossed by a ferry-boat. The 
settlements extend down the river some distance, in little 
groups or towns, for some 15 miles, and are mostly inhab- 
ited by Mexicans, with here and there some few exceptions. 
Some enterprising Americans having planted vineyards, are 
carrying on a very good trade in wine and brandy with the 
interior. 

Mining Districts and Mines of Chihuahua. 

The principal mining districts of Chihuahua are, the 
Guadalupe y Calvo, Zapuri, Batopilas, Urique, Guazaparez, 
Jesus Maria, and Potrero, Morellos, Chinapa, Pinos Altos, 
Concepcion, Cusihurriachic, Magurichic, Hidalgo y Teno- 
rivo, San Francisco del Oro, and Hidalgo del Parral. 

The Guadalupe y Calvo mines, which are located in the 
southern part of the state, are mostly owned by a ISlew York 
company, who purchased them from an Enghsh company, 
who obtained vast profits from working them. The mines 
of this district obtained their great reputation from the 
immense wealth brought to their English owners. The 
Zapuri District is also very rich, and is owned by Becerra 
Hermanos. The mines of this district, which are now being 



121 

worked, are said to be the richest in the state of Chihuahua. 
The Batopilas District is mostly owned by several American 
companies and individuals, and is locatecl in the south-west- 
ern part of the state, about 90 miles from Fuerte, in a 
north-east direction. 

The celebrated San Miguel mine is owned by the Bato- 
pilas Consolidated Mining Company, of jSTew York, with 
other mines in this district. Mr. Shepard, of Washington 
City, owns the controlling interest of this company, which 
is amassing immense profits from their mines. 

The San Miguel, which is now yielding from $7,000 to 
$8,000 per day, is located near this point; and while work- 
ing the mine, they reached one of three veins that produced 
bonanzas of from 50 to 90 per cent, pure silver; the rich 
places being found sometimes in oiie ledge, then in another. 

The Santo Domingo, which is located on one side of the 
San Miguel, and is owned by Mr. Kirk, of Philadelphia, 
struck a bonanza upon the same ledge that was passed 
through by the San Miguel, without finding rich ore, 
though the latter mine struck a bonanza on the next vein 
beyond. 

The Kevada Tunnel Company's mine, owned by Becerra 
Hermafios & Co., was opened near the converging point of 
the difl'erent veins, expecting to strike it rich on the other 
side, to the right of the San Miguel mine; they reasoning 
that if the veins all converge at this point, which the angles 
of the ledges or veins indicate, they will find one solid bo- 
nanza of all the veins in one. If this is true, the result will 
be millions to the owners. These mines are all located in 
the Batopilas district, the veins of which produce virgin 
silver, with little or no alloy with copper or base metals. 
"We were shown specimens of ore taken from these mines, 
and found them to be from 50 to 90 per cent of virgin silver. 
These specimens are to be seen at Mr. J. F. Schleiden's 
office, of this city, who very kindly gave us valuable inform- 
ation in relation to the mines of Siualoa, Chihuahua, and 
Durango. 

The Urique District contains many rich mines, and is 
owned by the Becerra Hermanos. 

The Chinipas District is on the road to the Guazaparez 
district, and possesses some very good mines. The latter 
district contains some rich mines, and is entirely owned by 
Mexicans. 

The Jesus Maria District may be mentioned next, to 
which we have given special attention in the reports of 



122 

assay ers and mining experts; the greater part of which 
information is found in the valuable book of Mr. Mowry, on 
Arizona and Sonora. The mines of this district are all 
owned by Mexicans, and are now worked to great advan- 
tage. 

The Pinos Altos District is mostly owned by English and 
American companies. 

The district of Morelos is also, with the Pinos Altos, very 
rich in ores that yield marvelously. 

We might add that the Batopilas district is completely 
surrounded with mountains containing milling ores. The 
silver is almost entirely native in this whole region. The 
celebrated Tajos mine is located in the Batopilas district, 
and is famous for its beautiful specimens of ores. This 
mine is also owned by the Bacerra Hermaiios. There is 
another silver mine in Parral, that has a shaft 300 feet deep, 
that pays $175 per ton, according to the assay of Salazar, 
assayist, of Tucson, Arizona. This mine is located in the 
southern part of Chihuahua, in the Sierra Madre range, in 
the vicinity of other silver mines. The vein, Mr. C. Orcilla, 
the owner, who is now in this city, says, is from 12 to 24 feet 
wide, and is located in the town of Parral, that has 6,000 in- 
habitants. The river, or Parral Creek, runs through the 
town. There is good grazing in the vicinity, and it is sur- 
rounded by cattle ranches. It is in a region well settled. 
The mine is an old one, and the extent of possession is 600 
by 200 varas. The ore is milled near the same place by the 
primitive arastra. The ore is carried to the arastras on the 
backs of mules. The mine is for sale, and can be purchased 
of Mr. Orcilla. The M Minero Mexicano, of December 9th, 
says that the mines of Hidalgo del Parral might be explored 
by the expenditure of $500,000. 

Mines of Jesus Maria and San Jose Districts. 

" The Nuestra Seiiora del Eayo mine, in the district of 
Jesus Maria, was discovered shortly after the discovery of 
the mine of Jesus Maria, from which the mining town de- 
rived its name, in the year 1823, and is situated in the west- 
ern range of mountains of the creek of Jesus Maria, at one- 
and-a-half miles from the town. 

" The Rayo was discovered at the same time as the cele- 
brated Santa Juliana Mine, from which it is about 500 varas 
distant. Its first owners were Messrs. Tomas Suza and 
Tomas Rivera, who worked it successfully, with good re- 



123 

suits, in gold and silver. It was abandoned on the discovery 
of a bonanza in the Santa Juliana mine, of which they were 
part owners. This happened in 1826. It was afterwards 
worked by the Siquerio Bros, until it became filled with bad 
air, caused by careless management. The mine was after- 
wards almost ruined by gambucinos. Sr. J. C. Henriquez, 
in 1858, denounced it to restore it, which he subsequently 
did, and it is now being worked. 

The extent of possession of this mine is 700 varas verti- 
cally, the vein having an inclination of from 15 to 20 de- 
grees, and running east and west. A drift shaft 25 varas 
long and 5 wide has been opened, with firm, walls, from 
whence two shafts have been sunk, leaving a pillar of 14 to 
15 varas between. A drift was run from them of large ex- 
tent. 

There is also a vein of auriferous, argentiferous quartz in 
the vein proper. It runs from 2 to 10 inches in thickness in 
four difierent veins, running parallel with each other. The 
ley of the ores was 24 ounces of auriferous silver per carga, 
or 160 ounces per ton. The intrinsic value of the silver of this 
mine, according to the statement of the government assayer 
of the district was 11 d. 2 gr. silver, 100 gr. gold, realizing 
11 d. per marc at Jesus Maria prices. 

The ore discovered in widening the walls, when these 
auriferous veins were first discovered, contained more silver 
than gold, yielding at the rate of $1,500 silver to flOO gold 
per carga of 300 lbs. It afterwards changed into more gold, 
and yielded over $100,000 per ton. Later, this vein 
changed into its former state. More or less rich pockets are 
found at uncertain intervals. The ores are easily reduced 
under the common Spanish amalgamation process. This 
Rayo mine is situated near the top of a mountain range, 
from 300 to 500 varas above the creek. The entrance to 
the mine is on an almost perpendicular side of the mountain. 
Timber is abundant, and at three miles distant. It is hardly 
half a mile to the hacienda of Quintana. 

Santa Margarita is situated at the Rosario, about three 
miles distant from Jesus Maria, and was formerly owned by 
Messrs. Gutierrez, Guerreua & Co. The vein is steep, slant- 
ing from one-half to one vara wide, its gangue being lime- 
spattle with virgin gold of 960 m. ley per ton. The vein 
runs east to west 2 degrees, incline north ; extent of pos- 
session, 800 varas. The mine has filled with water, aud has 
three shafts. The common ore always paid $12 per ton. 
The better class reached $25,961 per ton, and the best ore, 



124 

$71,680 per ton, with gold selling at Jesus Maria at $12 to 
$14: per ounce. The improvements on the mine are one 
stone building — a "malacate," or large horse-windlass. An 
outlay of $4,000 to $5,000 would put the mine in working 
condition, providing the malacate windlass was used. 

" San Jose. — The Rosario gold mine is adjoining the Santa 
Margarita mine, and is supposed to be the same vein. The 
vein is almost perpendicular, and from one-half to one vara 
in width. Several shafts and drifts have been run. The 
best and second-class ore has paid a similar ley as that of 
the Santa Margarita, while the common and inferior ley 
pays from $3 to $4 per carga, or from $20 to $25 per ton, 
while the heavy residue of the ground and worked ore pays 
six ounces to the arroba, of 25 lbs. "Zaroche" is the name 
for gold of low color, containing silver. On one occasion, a 
carga of 300 lbs realized $10,000, having reached a rich 
pocket. Extent of possession, 800 varas. This mine is now 
full of water. 

"The Candelaria mine is situated about half a mile from 
the town of Jesus Maria. The vein runs almost perpendic- 
ular from one to two feet wide, The ore is hard, but docile 
under the amalgamation process. The lowest yield has never 
been less than $48 per arroba of 300 lbs— $320 to $3243 per 
ton as the highest. 

" The gold of this mine sells at Jesus Maria at $10 per 
ounce. The mine is on the top of a mountain range 400 
varas above the creek, and was full of rain water; extent of 
possession, 800 varas. 

" The San Rafael mine is distant three-quarters of a mile 
from Jesus Maria town. The vein is nearly perpendicular, 
direction south to north,- inclination from 15^ to 20° east, and 
is about one and a half feet wide, on an average. The gam- 
bucinos filled up the most of the shafts with rubbish and de- 
stroyed them. The balance of the shafts from the first drift 
are filled with water. The lowest ley has never been less 
than one marc to the cargo, the residue or "polvillos " pay- 
ing from two to three marcs silver per arroba, or about $110 
per ton. This silver is auriferous, and sells at Jesus Maria 
at $16 per marc; extent of possession, 800 varas. 

" The Hacienda Quiutana is the point established for the re- 
duction of the ores, and is situated in the center of the min- 
ing town Jesus Maria. It consists of three stamps and eight 
arastras, all the machinery of which is moved by an overshot 
wheel run by water. The hacienda reduces three and a half 
tons per 24 hours, and is fed by the creek Jesus Maria." 



125 

(From an official report in the work of Mowry on Sonora 
and Arizona.) Mr. Ward says of Chihuahua: 

" On entering the state of Chihuahua, tlie first district of 
any consideration is that of San Jose del Parral, situated 
upon the eastern edge of the Sierra Madre, and near the 
southern boundary of the state of Chihuahua, in a level coun- 
try, easy of access. The mines lie amongst some undulating 
hills, thickly covered with pasture, and of inconsiderable ele- 
vation. The lodes are easily distinguished by their rocky 
crests, which rise above the smooth and rounded surface of the 
hills. The ores are very abundant, but poor; although from 
time to time some rich " clavos " have been discovered. This 
disadvantage is compensated by the trifling expense at which 
they may be reduced, from the cheapness of the animals em- 
ployed in the process, and the very abundant supply of grain 
in the surrounding country. The onlj' article of high price is 
quicksilver. The salt and magistral are abundant, and cheap; 
but there is not a sufficient supply of water to move ma- 
chinery during the whole year; and as the rains are very 
variable, it cannot be depended upon, even for a certain 
number of months. The mines have been worked to a con- 
siderable extent, some of them being 300 varas in depth, 
and they are almost all in so dilapidated a state, that a con- 
siderable capital would be required to put them into repair. 
The water in the old levels is abundant. Parral has a nu- 
merous population, but with the exception of two or three 
small mines of great promise, and which require an incon- 
siderable outlay, it is thought that capital might be invested 
with a greater prospect of success in other districts, where 
the ruins might be more easily repaired." This was in 
1827. See the report on mines in the San Josd district, in 
Chihuahua. Mr. Ward continues, speaking of the Batopi- 
las district: 

" On the western declivity of the Sierra Madre, and in 
nearly the same parallel of latitude as the Parral, are the 
famous mines of Batopilas. Its distance from Parral is 
about 80 leagues nearly due west, and it is situated in a 
ravine, similar to that of Guarisamey. 

"The climate is warm yet healthy. The metallic lodes, 
visible by their elevated crests, are almost innumerable, and 
by far the greater number of them have never yet been ex- 
amined. The principal mines are El Carmen, San Antonio, 
Pastrana, Arbitrios, l)olores, Candelaria, and Buen Suceso, 
with many others not accessary to enumerate. The Carmen 
is the mine that produced the enormous wealth of the Mar- 



126 

quis of Bustaraente, and from which a mass of solid silver 
was extracted weighing 17 arrobas or 425 pounds. The ores 
of Pastrana were so rich that the lode was worked by bars 
with a point at one end and a chisel at the other for cutting 
out the silver. The owner of Pastrana used to bring the 
ores from the mine with flags flying, and the mules adorned 
with cloths of all colors. The same man received a reproof 
from the Bishop of Durango, when he visited Batopilas, for 
placing bars of silver from the door of his house to the sala 
for the bishop to walk upon. " From this fact arose the tra- 
dition in relation to the Estacata mine, referred to in anoth- 
er place. 

" Buen Suceso was discovered by an Indian who swam 
across the river after a great flood. On arriving at the 
other side he found the crest of an immense lode laid bare 
by the force of the water. The greater part of this crest 
was pure and massive silver and sparkling in the sun. The 
whole town of Batopilas went to witness this extraordinary 
sight as soon as the river became fordable. The Indian ex- 
tracted great wealth from his mine, but on arriving at the 
depth of three varas, the abundance of the water obliged 
him to abandon it, and no attempt has been since made to 
resume the working. In this district the silver is generally 
found pure and unaccompanied by any extraneous substance. 
The reduction of the ores is consequently easy and simple. 
When the silver is not found in solid masses which require 
to be cut with the chisel, it is generally finely sprinkled 
through the lode, and often seems to nail together the parti- 
cles of stone through which it is disseminated. The lodes 
are of considerable width, but the masses of silver are only 
met with at intervals. 

" In the mine of El Carmen the Marquis of Bustamente, 
after the first bonanza, drove 30 varas in depth without 
meeting with anything to repay his labor, but being fully 
persuaded that all lodes have their alternate points of good 
and bad, he continued, until at the depth of 40 varas he met 
with the second bonanza. There is very little water in the 
mines of Batopilas, excepting those situated near the bank 
of the river, and these the river itself might be made to 
drain. 

" The population of the town was at one time very consid- 
erable, but it has decreased of late (1827), whole families 
having gone to the new discoveries of Morelos and Jesus 
Maria — the first of which lies in the vicinity of Batopilas, 
and appears to possess all the characteristics by which the 



127 

lodes of that district are distinguished. It was discovered 
in the spring of 1826 by two brothers, (Indians by the name 
of Aranco) to one of whom a little maize for tortillas had 
been refused upon credit the night before. In two months 
they extracted from their mine $270,000; yet in December, 
1826, they were still living in a wretched hovel close to the 
source of their wealth, bare-headed and bare-legged, with 
upward of £40,000 sterling in silver locked up in their hut. 
I possess two large specimens of the ores; they are almost 
pure silver, and there is consequently no difficulty in re- 
ducing them by fire, however rude or defective the process." 

El Refugio was also discovered in this district, and was 
extremely rich. "To the north of El Parral and about five 
leagues to the south-east of the city of Chihuahua is the 
ancient mining district of Santa Eulalia. It has been long 
abandoned, and the mines are in a ruinous condition. The 
ores were generally found in loose earth, filling immense 
caverns (salons) of which some are stated to be sufficiently 
large to contain the cathedral of the city of Mexico. The 
correctness of this assertion may require confirmation, but 
there can be little doubt of their magnitude, since the last 
bonanza extracted from one of them continued for 9 years, 
and one real being laid aside for each marc of silver pro- 
duced, a fund was formed out of which the cathedral of Chi- 
huahua was built, and a fund of reserve formed of $100,000. 
The ores of Santa Eulalia are generally mixed with a con- 
siderable quantity of galena, which renders them fit for 
smelting. 

" Upon the western descent of the Sierra Madre, 80 leagues 
from Chihuahua, is the celebrated and recently discovered 
district of Jesus Maria. This "Mineral" was denounced in 
the year 1822, but was, at first, very little worked, in conse- 
quence of the scarcity of provisions, population, and every 
other necessary for mining operations." 

This district, on this account, was nearly abandoned at 
first; but such rich ores were afterwards found that the 
attention of the surrounding country was again called to the 
spot. A search being made among the neighboring mount- 
ains, upwards of 200 metallic lodes were registered in one 
year, within a circle of three leagues in diameter. The 
deepest (Santa Juhana) is not more (in 1827) than 70 varas; 
but it has produced ores so rich that they have been carried 
to Chihuahua (80 leagues) and to the Parral (120 leagues) 
to be reduced; there not being any reduction works on the 
spot when the bonanza commenced. 



128 

'Near the surface of the earth, all the lodes contain a con- 
siderable quantity of gold. This diminishes as the work- 
ings increase in depth, while the proportion of silver aug- 
ments. 

The "Mineral" District is situated in a deep ravine, with 
very little level ground about it, the mountains rising on 
each side from the arroyo (valley). 

In the immediate neighborhood are several mining dis- 
tricts of great promise, some ancient and some newly- 
discovered. Such are Rosario, (now filled with water, in 
1881) Nabosayquame, El Potrero, Quipore, El Pilar de la 
Cieneguita, El Pilar de Milpillas, Batopilas, and Cajurichic. 
These form a circle, the centre of which is the Indian vil- 
lage of Moris, situated in an open valley, capable of consid- 
erable cultivation. 

"Jesus Maria is near the summit of the mountains, and is, 
consequently, cold in the winter; the surrounding ridges 
being occasionally covered with snow. Moris is a temperate 
climate, almost bordering upon ' Tierra Caliente. ' 

" Two leagues below Jesus Maria, there is a small plain, 
well adapted for reduction works, a,nd afibrding pasturage 
for animals; but it is necessary to open a road to it down 
the ravine." (Ward on Mexico, vol. 2, pages 576 to 584, 
inclusive.) 

Guazapares District. 

This district is situated near the border line of Sinaloa, 
and is reached by a road or mule-trail from Alamos, in So- 
nora. 

The mines of Patrocina and Dolores are the principal 
ones in this district. These mines were owned by a com- 
pany organized in this city, in 1874, known as the Patrocina 
and Dolores Mining Company. The company, being induced 
by representations of the rich quality of the ores of these 
mines, purchased them, and sent a 10-stamp mill into the 
mountains, with boiler, engines, etc., as near as it could be 
transported to the mines; but the region being so mountain- 
ous, and traversed only by pack-train trails, accessible only 
to mules, and as there was no other manner of transporta- 
tion, the mill failed to reach its destination, and now lies 
scattered on the road, in a ruinous condition. The mill was 
then abandoned, and the mines attempted to be worked by 
the "batea" process, as the ore assayed as high as <flOO 
per ton. The result was an abandonment, after some $90,- 



129 

000 were expended iu the experiment. These mines are 
undoubtedly good mines, but are inaccessible, and therefore 
will not pay the expenses of workilig them. 

Guadalupe y Calvo, in the Guadalupe y Calvo District, is 
the largest mine iu the State of Chihuahua. It was leased 
in former years to an English company for a period of 20 
years, and supported a population of 10,000 people. This is 
a celebrated mine, on account of its producing immense 
fortunes for the English company. When the lease expired, 
the original owners, who are Mexicans, took possession, 
with all the improvements, and continued to work it. 
"While it was in possession of the English company, they 
secured the erection of a mint by the Mexican government, 
to save the expense of transportation. A 20-stamp mill was 
used to reduce the ore, and about 80 arastras. The latter 
were run by Mexicans on shares. The depth reached iu 
the mine is about 900 feet. The width of the vein averages 
from 20 to 25 feet, and is well defined. The average assay 
was about $200— the lowest, $40, and the highest, $2,000. 
The ore was free milling. The mine is located on the side 
of a mountain, 500 feet above the creek; but it is now 
abandoned, and the shafts and drifts are filled with water on 
the lower levels. 

The Carmen mine is located just beyond the border line 
of Sinaloa, in the State of Chihuahua, on the side of a mount- 
ain near the summit, in the main range of the Sierra 
Madre. The depth of the mine is about 300 feet or more; 
width of the vein about 5 feet. The average assay about 
$120 per ton, and the ore runs pretty even from $80 to $300 
per ton. It is owned by a Mexican. The ore is rebellious, 
and contains but a small percentage of gold. The mine is 
not a mile distant from the border, and about 25 miles from 
the town of Cosala in Sinaloa. 

9 



duea:j^go. 



CHAPTER I. 
Physical Features. 

A large proportion of the state of Durango is situated 
upon the table-lands, and the capital, though surrounded in 
most maps by mountains, lies in the midst of a vast plain, 
which, to the north-east, extends, with few interruptions, as 
far as Chihuahua and Santa F^, in New Mexico. To the 
west, both north and south, the Sierra Madre extends, form- 
ing a barrier upon the Pacific side, and the hot low lands 
of Sinaloa occupy the space between the foot of the mount- 
ains and the Pacific Ocean. The state is bounded on the 
north and north-west by Chihuahua, and on the east by Co- 
ahuila, and on the south-east by Zacatecas, and on the south 
by Jalisco, and south-west by Sinaloa. It is completely sur- 
rounded by Mexican territory, and is not considered as one 
of the border states, though we have included it in our 
work on account of its location and important interests con- 
nected with those states on the frontier. 

The state of Durango is divided into 13 districts, as fol- 
lows: Durango, ISTombre de Dios, Mesquital, Cuencame, 
Uzas, Mapime, San Juan de Guadalupe, San Juan del Rio; 
Indee, Papasquiero, El Oro, Tamasula, and San Dimas. The 
state has but few manufactures. Its riches consist almost 
entirely in mines and agricultural produce, which last is so 
considerable that the lands already brought into cultivation 
are supposed to be sufficient for the support of a popula- 
tion five times as large as the State now contains. Conse- 
quently, it has considerable trade with the surrounding re- 
gion. 

The raising of stock is carried on extensively also; most 
of the estates, besides being devoted to agricultural products, 
are also devoted to the raising of large herds of horned cat- 
tle, horses, mules, and sheep, of which last 150,000 are sent 
every year to the Mexican market. The Hacienda de la 
Sarca alone possesses a stock of 200,000 sheep and 40,000 

130 



131 

mules and horses. That of Ramas, which consists of 400 
"litios " or sheep ranches, has 80,000 sheep, and the Guati- 
maj^e 40,000 oxen and cows. Th"e valley of Poanos, about 
45 miles from the capital east, contains nothing but corn 
lands. It is watered by a river which runs through the 
center of the valley, and on this river are nine "haciendas de 
triego'^ (corn estates) in immediate succession, which supply 
the capital with flour of the very best quality, at from $Q to 
$8 per fanega. Sugar might be extensively raised in the 
valley of the Sierra Madre, where water abounds and cli- 
mate might also be selected at pleasure. Sugar is at pres- 
ent brought from the valley of Cuencame at a distance of 
250 leagues. It sells at an enormous price — $5 per arroba, 
and often at $10. Indigo and cofi'ee might likewise be 
reckoned among the natural productions, as they are found 
wild in the barrancas or ravines of the Sierra. Sugar, we 
believe, is raised to a small extent in some of the valleys. 

Mr. Kuxton describes the ranchos and haciendas as fol- 
lows: " The ranchos and haciendas in Durango and Chihua- 
hua are all inclosed by a high wall, flanked at the corners 
by circular bastions loop-holed for musketry. The entrance 
is by a large gate which is closed at night, and on the azates 
or flat roof of the building a sentry is constantly posted day 
and night during Indian troubles. Round the corral are the 
dwellings of the peones, the casa grande or proprietor's 
house being generally at one end and occupying one or more 
sides of the square." He goes on to speak of large herds of 
cattle and horses to be found on the plains, but of one dis- 
trict he says: "From El Gallo to Mapimi a mule track leads 
the traveler through a most wild and broken countrj^, per- 
fectly deserted, rugged sierras rising from the mesquite- 
covered plains, which are sterile and entirely destitute of 
water. This part of the country is far out of the beaten 
track from Durango to Chihuahua." Thus it is seen that, 
sterile tracts are also to be found in this state. The whole 
of the state is mountainous and contains no rivers, except a 
few small streams. 



132 . 
CHAPTER 11. 
City of Durango. 

Of the City of Durango he says: " The City of Durango 
was founded by Velasco el Primero, and it may be consid- 
ered the ' ultima thule ' of the civilized portion of Mexico. 
Beyond it to the north and north-west stretch away the vast 
uncultivated and unpeopled plains of Chihuahua, the Bol- 
son de Mapimi, and the arid deserts of the Gila. " The dis- 
tance to Mexico City is 650 miles from Durango, the capital 
of the state, which is situated 65 leagues north-west of Za- 
catecas. The population is 22,000. The state had, in 1876, 
185,000. Both the city of Victoria and most of the other 
towns of Durango — Tamasula, Sianori, Mapimi, San Dimas, 
Canelas, Cuencame — take their origin from the mines. 

The town of Victoria, or Durango, is situated in the plain 
heretofore mentioned, and is the principal town of the state. 
The streets are pretty regular, and the town contains a large 
plaza called the Plaza Mayor, one theater and other public 
buildings, which were built by Zambrano, a rich mine- 
owner, who is supposed to have extracted from his mines at 
San Dimas and Guarisamey, upwards of thirty millions of 
dollars. 

The capitol is located here, a mint, and the Casa del 
Apartado, (a place for the separation of gold from silver) a 
glass manufactory, a tannery, and a fabrica de tobacos. The 
police of the town is well organized, and robberies almost 
unknown. Legal proceedings are summary, the legisla- 
ture having passed a law which concludes legal proceedings 
in three days, in cases of robbery. 

Tobacco is produced, also, in the State, to some extent. 

There is much trade at this point, principally in bullion 
from the mines, and among the principal business firms 
may be mentioned, Julio Hildebrand Succesores, Door- 
man & Co., Giron, Stahlknecht & Co., Francisco Gurza & 
Co., Juambels Hermanos, and Francisco Alvarez & Co. 

The towns of Villa del Nombre de Dios, San Juan del 
Rio, and Cinco Senores deITazas,are almost the only cities in 
the State connected with mines. The two first are sup- 
ported by an extensive trade in "vino mescal," (a sort of 
brandy distilled from the maguey or American aloe, some- 
times called the century plant, which requires from seven 
to ten years to develop. 

The last-named town is supported by the cotton planta-- 



133 

tions upon the banks of the river Nazas, from which the 
manufacturers of Saltillo, San Luis and Zacatecas draw their 
supplies. The cotton is cleaned and manufactured in those 
places. 

The territory of the state is divided into ten partidos or 
districts, viz: Durango, Nombre de Dios, San Juan del Rio, 
Cinco Senores de Nazas, Cuencame, El Oro, Indee, Papas- 
quiero, Tamasula, and Guarisamey. 

The state is well supplied with all the necessaries of life. 
Maize is sold for 12 reals to the fanega; flour, $10 to $12 per 
carga of 300 lbs; fruits and vegetables of all kinds abound, 
peaches and potatoes, etc. Mules are bought by the whole- 
sale at fl8 per head; horses, at $8 to $9; sheep at $1. A 
fat ox or cow brings $12. In the vicinity of the capital, all 
the materials for building abound, also lime and stone. The 
flint used for the manufacture of glass is found at the foot of 
the Cerro del Mercado; lead from Cuencame and Mapimi — 
$4 per quintal. Copper is brought from Chihuahua, and 
sells for $24 per 100 lbs. Excelleut iron from the Cerro del 
Mercado is manufactured into mining tools, and is so hard as 
not to need the usual tip of steel. 

Mining Districts of Durango. 

The following is from Mr. Ward's book on Mexico: 
" The principal mining districts of Durango are located 
in the Sierra Madre, and east of the Sierra Madre. Those 
in the Sierra Madre are, Guarisamey, San Dimas, Gavilanes, 
Toyoltita, Canelas, Sianori, Bacis, Tamasula, Ventanas, and 
San Andres. Those east of the Sierra Madre are, Cuen- 
came, (near the river Nazas) Yerba Buena, Mapimi, Indee, 
El Oro, and Guanacevi. 

''These districts, and, indeed, most of the districts of the 
north, including those located in Durango, Sonora, Chihua- 
hua, and Sinaloa, are known throughout Mexico as possess- 
ing ores of a superior quality; and at a short distance from 
the surface, namely, from 30 to 45 feet, the paying ores 
commence: whereas, the main vein of Guanajuato, in the 
southern mines of the republic, yields but little until some 
200 to 300 feet is reached. The metals seem to increase in 
richness as you approach the north from Mexico City; so 
that in the district of Jesus Maria, in the State of Chihua- 
hua, in that great branch or spur of the Sierra Madre which 
separates the States of Durango and Chihuahua from those 
of Sonora and Sinaloa, to the north and west, the ores of the 



134 

mine of Santa Juliana appear by a certified report from the 
Deputacion de Minera to average seven and eight marcs of 
silver per carga, (300 lbs. to the carga, and $3.20 to the 
marc) which is the average produce of ten cargas of good 
ore in Guanajuato, while ores of the best quality yield as 
much as from 4 to 10 marcs per arroba, (25 lbs.) or 40 
marcs per carga. This Santa Juliana mine of the Jesus 
Maria District, before mentioned, assayed with this result 
at about 210 feet in depth. 

" In the District of Batopilas, (also in Chihuahua) where 
the matrix is, in general, quartz, the pure malleable silver 
intermixed with it often exceeds in proportion one-half, and 
masses of this description, of the weight of 11 arrobas (270 
lbs.) have been raised. One of five arrobas in weight (125 
lbs.) was in existence at Chihuahua when Mr. Ward visited 
it in 1827, and he was solicited to purchase it for the Brit- 
ish Museum. 

" Up to 1827, the only three districts of the north that were 
worked with any regularity were. Santa Eulalia, Batopilas, 
and Guarisamey. 

" It is now on record at Durango, that Zambrano, who 
was the proprietor of all the principal mines of Guarisamey 
and San Dimas, paid, as the king's fifth, upon the silver 
raised from his mines, between the period of their discov- 
ery in 1783 and 1807, when he died, 111,000,000. These 
immense riches were derived principally from five great 
mines in the San Dimas district: La Candelaria, San Juan 
Kepomuceno, Cinco Seiiores, La Abra, and Topia. The 
regular returns from the Candelaria alone," Mr. Ward says, 
in his work on Mexico, from which the foregoing on the 
mining districts of Durango is taken, " prove the annual 
profits never to have been less than $124,000, and which, in 
some years — within a period of five years — reached as high 
as $223,082. The ores of this mine, during the whole of 
this period, appear to have produced from five to six marcs 
per carga, (of 300 lbs.) and often to have yielded. 20, and 
even 30 marcs. When this mine had attained its greatest 
depth, (300 varas) the water was still brought up froai the 
bottom of the mine in leathern buckets, upon men's shoul- 
ders, and in this laborious manner was the mine worked. It 
was very rich, however, as the results proved. The propor- 
tion of gold in the ores of Guarisamey is very great, amount- 
ing sometimes to 2100 grains per marc." 

The principal mining districts of Durango are those of 
San Dimas, Gavilanes, Guarisamey, Tamasula, Canelas, Si- 



135 

anori, Topia, Picachos, Biramoa, Bajada, Papasquiera, 
Guanacevi, Indee, El Oro, Cueucame, and Mapimi. The 
first three, with Tamasula, Caiielas aucl Sianori, are situated 
on the western boundary of the State, upon the descent of 
the Sierra Madre to the Coast. The last five are located 
east of the Sierra Madre. 

Gavilanes, Guarisamej, and San Diraas lie nearly in the 
same parallel with the city of Victoria, about five days' 
journey to the westward. 

Three days are traveled on the table-land, and the other 
two through the fastnesses of the Sierra Madre. 

The Guarisamey district is situated in a deep caiion, over- 
hung by the highest mountains of the Sierra Madre, about 
9,000 feet. 

Gavilanes, on the contrary, stands upon a projecting plat- 
form on the side of the mountains not very far from the 
summit, and when seen from a distance, appears more like 
the abode of eagles than that for men. 

In this district the mines are all opened upon one lode, 
which is of large dimensions, almost as large as that of Gua- 
najuato. The vein at the surface was only one vara, and in- 
creased gradually, until at the depth of 70 varas it was ten 
to fifteen varas in width. This is the only mine in the dis- 
trict. 

Guarisamey, the head of the surrounding district, owes its 
discovery to the lode of Tecolota, which crosses the high road 
to Cosala, in Sinaloa. The abundance and richness of its ores 
soon brought prospectors, who discovered the veins of Arana, 
Cinco Seiiores, Bolanos, Pisamide, Candelaria, Dolores, and 
Topia, with many others, every one of which were worked 
profitably. These lodes, or the most of them, were de- 
nounced by Zambrano, and all produced bonanzas, some of 
which were very rich. 

The mine of Araila was remarkable for containing be- 
tween two small strips of rich ore, a cavity filled (like the 
bovedas of the mine in Zavala at Catorce) with a rich met- 
aliferous dust, composed almost entirely of gold and silver. It 
was also distinguished by many of those rich spots, commonly 
called " clavos," which, although of small extent, in a hori- 
zontal position, were constant in perpendicular depth. The 
" clavos '' were worked to the depth of 180 varas, though 
the mine had no shaft; and during the whole of this space, 
the most ordinary ores yielded from 10 to 15 marcs to the 
monton of fifteen quintals, while the richest are said to have 
produced from 70 to 105. 



136 

The lode of Ciuco Senores is five varas in width, and the 
qualities of the ores fully equal to their abundance. The 
mine is 300 varas in depth; few of the oldest mines, however, 
exceeding 140. Near the summit of the mountains that 
separate San Dimas from the Guarisamey lie the mines of 
Bolanos and Piramide — with others, all of small depth. The 
bonanza of Bolanos at first was celebrated, but the vein 
was afterwards lost. 

On the north side of the same ridge lies the famous mine 
of La Candelaria, from which a very large proportion of 
Zambraiio's fortune proceeded. It is situated near the sum- 
mit of the mountain immediately opposite to the mines of 
Ciuco Senores, and Bolanos, there being about three hours 
of difiicult ascent from Guarisamey to these mines, and near- 
ly the same from San Dimas to the Candelaria. On the San 
Bimas side the mountains are very precipitous, and thus the 
mine of Candelaria has been worked to the depth of 600 
varas by adits driven one below the other on the lode, the 
whole expense being defrayed by the value of the ores pro- 
duced. The last, a most magnificent work, is driven nearly 
500 varas into the mountain so wide, that a stage-coachjuight 
pass through it to the very heart of the mine, which may be 
worked 600 varas lower by pursuing a similar plan. The 
rich ores of the lode are found in separate beds perpendicu- 
lar to the horizon, called " clavos a pique," and divided by 
intermediate masses of rock. The beds of ores have been 
constant from the surface down. (The mine, I believe, is 
not now worked.) A little below Guarisamey and in the 
same ravine is the district of San Jos^ Tayoltita, which con- 
tains the celebrated mine of La Abia, one of the last worked 
by Zambrano, about 50 years ago. It also contained bonan- 
zas, but was abandoned on account of the influx of water. 
The pillars of this mine were extracted by the nephew of 
Zambrano, and it was left in ruins. " (The most of the above 
information was obtained from the celebrated work of Ward 
on Mexico, and is consequently not as late as we would fike 
to obtain, but we give it in order to locate the many old 
mines that are appearing in the market.) Mr. Ward con- 
tinues: 

" A little to the north of Guarisamey is the mineral dis- 
trict called Bacis, which was not visited by Mr. Glennie, 
on account of the rains having destroyed the roads. The 
same cause prevented him from reachiug Tamasula, Cane- 
las, and Sianori, all valuable districts, the two last of which 
are situated on the extreme north-western boundary of the 



137 

state of Durango. Baeis has loDg been given up on account 
of the difficulty of draining the mines without machinery, 
but it is said that the lodes were extremely rich in native 
silver, and that in the principal mine solid masses of this 
metal had been actually cut out, when the progress of the 
work was stopped by the water. This may be one of those 
embellishments in which mining districts abound, but there 
is nothing improbable in the supposition, the same thing 
having occurred in other parts of the Sierra Madre, as well 
as in the mine at Bolanos, from which I possess a piece of 
silver which, but for a small portion of the matrix attached 
to it, would, from its size and purity, be pronounced to have 
been already submitted to the action of fire." The state- 
ment as to cutting pure silver from the mine is not so extra- 
ordinary as Mr. Ward seems to have thought, as this has 
often been done from mines in the Batopilas district and 
others in Chihuahua. 

The other mining districts given by Garcia Cubas are 
Topia, Tominil, Corpus, Comitala, Durango, Noria, Avino, 
and Coneto. The following mining districts are being work- 
ed with good results: San Dimas, Topia, Picachos, Biri- 
moa, Bajada, Canelas, Papasquiera, and Tamasula. 

Iron Mines of Durango. 

The mines of Durango are kept free from water mostly 
by the use of the malacate, or horse- windlass, and Mr. Ward 
says that "their power of keeping down the water has ex- 
cited as much astonishment almost as the steam pump. The 
mines are worked as long as the water can be raised without 
inconvenience by two or three ' tenateros,' (carriers) with 
leathern buckets made from raw-hide, and abandoned when 
the discharge of this duty became too laborious. Most of 
the principal districts may consequently be regarded as vir- 
gin ground, and there are few in which the old shafts 
might not be again brought into activity with a compara- 
tively small outlay. 

The iron mines of this State are also extensive, and, if 
properly managed, they alone would become profitable, for 
there is no article for which the demand is greater than 
iron, and none, the supply of which from Europe is attend- 
ed with such manifold disadvantages. 

Durango might, in two years, be rendered the depot of 
iron for Sombrerete, Zacatecas, Catorce, Batopilas, and all 
the mining districts south of Chihuahua, nor would the sue- 



138 

cess of the iron mines already taken up at Encarnacion in- 
terfere with this prospect, as their market would be con- 
fined to the central mining states, beyond which, from the 
difficulties of communication, their operations would hardly 
be extended." (Ward on "Mexico," in 1827.) 

This subject has attained more importance since the con- 
struction of railroads has been commenced throughout the 
Republic, and the cost of iron imported for rails is as fol- 
lows, taken from the "El Minero Mexicano" of December 
9th, 1880: 

Per Ton. 

Steel rails in Endand. » _ 128.00 

" Unrted States 31.00 

COST OF RAILS IN MEXICO. 

Price in England 128.00 

Freight to Vera Cruz 9.00 

Landing 2. 00 

Freight to Mexico according to tariff 54.32 



Total f 93.32 

COST OF RAILS IN SAN LUIS POTOSL 

In England . = . .$28.00 

Freight to Tampi CO . e ... 9.00 

Landing 4. 00 

Freight to San Luis Potosi « =, 60. 00 

Total . .0 » 1101.00 

Cost of rails in Kew York 131.00 

Freight to Tampico » 15.00 

Landing 4.00 

Freight to San Luis Potosi c o . ,, 60.00 

Total 1110.00 

The El Minero Mexicano very naturally deduces from 
this that the rails had better be purchased, in England, and 
imported to the ports of the republic, on account of the differ- 
ence in the price of the rails as well as the freight. But if 
the extensive iron mines of Durango were developed the 
rails cou-ld be manufactured in the republic at a less price 
than the}^ can be imported from either of the points men- 
tioned, since the rails could be transported over the table 
lands of Durango, south-east to Mexico, over a railroad now 



139 

being built on a highway that is comparatively level, that 
puts the state in direct communication with the City of 
Mexico and the numerous railroads that are being built from 
that point throughout the republic. Then the rails could 
also be transported north to the Southern Pacific or Texas 
railways and shipped to El Paso, and from thence to Guay- 
mas and Mazatlan, or to Chihuahua, to the railroad that is 
being built from that point to lill Paso, and through a prac- 
ticable pass in the mountains to Mazatlan, by way of Fuerte 
and Culiacan, or to Alamos and Guaymas. A large propor- 
tion of the territory of Durango, as we have seen, is situated 
upon the table lands, and the capital is in the midst of a 
vast plain, or rather in the south-western portion of the plain, 
that opens up a communication both to the north-east, and 
south-east to the points designated. On the west, however, 
and the south-west, the Sierra Madre extends, reaching the 
valleys and plains of Sinaloa by immense steppes or elevated 
*plateaus, one above the other, which forms a barrier that 
is almost inaccessible, although a pass is reached on the 
north-west leading into Chihuahua, where the descent is 
more gradual, making communication practicable with Chi- 
huahua and Alamos, in Sonora, thence to Fuerte, and from 
thence to Cuhacan and Mazatlan, and Cosala, a new wagon 
road having lately been built from Mazatlan to Cosala. The 
iron industry is a most important one to Mexico; and foreign 
capital, invested properly, would be of great value to the 
republic, as well as very remunerative to the owners. A 
foundry could be built at the mines, and rails manufactured, 
and all kinds of mining machinery, and thus a vast trade 
could be opened. Says Mr. Ward : 

" Iron abounds within a quarter of a league of the gates 
of Durango. The Cerro de Mercado is entirely composed 
of iron ores, of two distinct qualities, (crystaUized and mag- 
netic) but almost equally rich, as they both contain from 60 
to 75 per cent, of pure iron. Ihe operation of smelting 
these ores is attended with considerable difficulty. An iron 
foundry, lately set up upon the banks of the river, 20 
leagues from l)urango, has failed, from the want of knowl- 
edge of the proper mode of treating the ores. A hacienda 
has been built in a situation where there is both water for 
machiner}' and an abundant supply of timber and charcoal; 
but as the proprietors do not possess the meaus of construct- 
ing a road for carts, (although from the nature of the 
ground, it might be accomplished with a very inconsidera- 
ble outlay) the conveyance of the ores on mules to the 



140 

reduction works materially diminishes the profits of the 
speculation. With regard to the difficulty of working 
them, it might undoubtedly be overcome, as from the 
affinity of the iron of El Mercado to that of Dannemora, 
Swedish forgemen would understand the nature of the proc- 
ess at once." 

Since the writing of Mr. Ward's book, the ore has been 
successfully treated, and manufactured into excellent mining 
tools, etc. 

Mr. Geo. F. Ruxton, in his valuable work, entitled, 
"Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains," pub- 
lished in 1848, says that "this enormous mass of malleable 
iron, as he terms it, is isolated on the plain, and is supposed 
to be an aerolite, and is, consequently, not connected with 
any ledge or bed of ore. lie also says its composition and 
physical character is identified with certain aerolites which 
fell in 1751, in Hungary. It contains 15 per cent, of pure 
iron, according to the analysis of a Mexican chemist, and 
some specimens which Humboldt procured were analyzed 
by the celebrated Kkiproth, with about the same result." 

We obtain the following data from a valuable pamphlet 
published in Mexico in 1878, entitled, "El Cerro de Mer- 
cado de Durango por Fcderico Weidner," in which the 
writer compares very justly the difference of the price of 
iron used in the foundry at Mazatlan with the price in En- 
gland and also at Durango, as follows: 

" At the port of Mazatlan, for example, in all iron of sec- 
ond fusion (pig iron) which is used in the establishment of 
Senor D. Joaquin Redo, as well as first material (or iron 
ore) the price per ton of 2,240 lbs. which is manufactured 
or melted in England, is as follows: 

First price of the invoice, per ton $15 to 125 

Freight by water, per ton 5 to 7 

Unloading and carriage by mules, per ton ... 5 
Custom house duties, at 30 cts. per hundred, 5 

Total o $36 

a little more or less per ton, or $1.60 per quintal. 

" In the place of English iron, if they want to use Du- 
rango iron, the cost at the foundry of Flores would be $3 to 
$4 per quintal, or $60 to $80 per ton. 

"Adding to this the freight between Mazatlan and Durango 
at $3.50 per quintal, or $80 per ton, with the purchase price 



Ul 

at Mazatlan, at f 60 to f 80 per ton, makes a total of $156 per 
ton, more or less, or $1 per quintal." 

The iron of Mazatlan, at $6 to $10 per quintal, when cast 
by the piece, costs $12 to $16 for complicated work; but 
when half-finished or plain, it costs $8 per quintal, or $180 
per ton; so that in Durango, the minimum price is $15 per 
quintal, or $336 per ton. Adding to this the freight to 
Mazatlan, makes the minimum price for finished iron $20 
per quintal, or $448 per ton." 

This is sufiGLcient argument, we take it, for the establish- 
ment of a foundry at Durango alongside of the Cerro de 
Mercado, or mountain of iron, in the immediate vicinity. 
The author goes on to show that since the first cost in En- 
gland is $20 per ton while it can be procured in their neigh- 
borhood for $4 to $6 in ore, and carriage to a foundry erect- 
ed would not make it more than $5 to $7. He also men- 
tions the existence of furnaces, retorts, and other apparatus 
which were abandoned by various parties np to 1856, on 
account of their being unable to successfully reduce the 
ore, and points out the fact that the ore of the Cerro de 
Mercado can be successfully treated and manufactured at a 
very great profit. He also publishes a scientific examina- 
tion of the ore and the surrounding locality, its extent and 
analysis, which we condense below. He goes on to explode 
an error that exists on the part of travelers and scientific 
men that this immense mass of iron is an aerolite, and pub- 
lishes in the pamphlet the geological structure or formation 
around and underneath it, and pronounces the aerolite the- 
ory a cabal on the Cerro de Mercado, and further that it is 
of volcanic origin; and points out the fact that the iron 
mines of England have produced 15,000,000 of quintals an- 
nually for the last 330 years, amounting to $9,900,000,000, 
or more than seven times the amount of gold and silver 
coined from all the mines of Mexico from 1690 to 1803. 
He says the Cerro de Mercado is 1,750 varas in length from 
east to west, and 400 varas in width, and the height from 
the surface of the plain of San Antonio 234 varas, which 
cuts it, as it were, in the middle horizontally, and the re- 
sulting estimate in cubic measurement is 60,000,000 cubic 
varas, and by analysis of the contents or percentage of pure 
iron it contains, estimates the amount of ore in the whole 
mass at more than 5,000,000,000 of quintals, from which he 
calculates that, taking the percentage of pure iron to be 50 
per cent., although it assays 75 per cent., the whole mass 
will then produce 2,500,000,000 quintals of metallic or pure 



142 

iron, and, estimating its value at $5 per quintal, it would 
represent not less than the enormous sum of $12,500,000,- 
000, or more than three times all the products of the mines 
of Mexico since 1772 to 1880, which we have estimated to 
be about $4,000,000,000. 

Further, in order to fully comprehend the immense amount 
of iron in this solid mass, by calculating the amount produced 
in England at fifteen millions of quintals annually for the 
last 330 years, the whole amount produced is 4,950 millions 
of quintals, or only a little over one-third of the amount of 
pure iron contained in the Cerro de Mercado, which has 
been aptly termed a mountain of iron, and lies almost un- 
touched, while the same metal now so much in demand 
within the boundaries of the republic, is imported from 
England, as we have already shown; the difference in freight, 
as well as first cost, giving the trade to England. 

Curious Caves of Durango. 

From Cosala, in Chihuahua, to the foot of the mountains, 
a distance of five leagues due east, Santa Ana, a small 
rancho, is situated, and near it are some mines of silver and 
magistral. The road here enters a canon, and the traveler 
soon gets enveloped in the mountains, which rise almost per- 
pendicularly. Strata of porphyry, granite, limestone and 
alabaster are found on each side. 

A small stream runs along the bottom of the canon, and 
leads up to the table-land, which soon commences. On the 
boundaries of Durango, immense herds of cattle are seen 
grazing on the plains, mingling with elk and the fallow 
deer, and black-tailed deer; the latter, however, frequents 
mostly the inaccessible mountains. 

The celebrated caves of the state are located 30 leagues 
from San Antonio, and 16 leagues from Cosala, or about 48 
miles. The caves are situated in a small circular valley or 
basin 100 yards in diameter. The road lies down the 
canon, 14 leagues below, to this basin. 

The caves are called Las Cuevas de San Miguel. The 
largest is called San Miguel, and is 240 feet in length and 
80 feet high, and 150 feet wide, forming a large room. 
The roof is a regular arch in formation or curvature. In the 
back wall, opposite the entrance, are found openings of dif- 
erent sizes. One of them was penetrated by a traveler, who 
describes them in a book entitled, " The North-western Part 
of Mexico." He says, he penetrated 130 feet, and found 
intricate windings and subdivisions or openings on each side. 



143 

The origin of the caves is unknown, but it is supposed that 
they were inhabited by the aborigines or ancient Aztecs. 
They have never been completely explored, as near as we 
can ascertain, and the attention of antiquarians is called to 
them, as relics of the former inhabitants might be found. 
From the caves, the distance to Plomosas i s 40 leagues, and 
to the city of Duraugo, 40. 

Coahuila. 

The state of Coahuila is divided into five districts: Sal- 
tillo, Parras, Viezca, Monclova and Rio Grande. The state 
is extremely mountainous, and the vast plains called the 
Bolsonde Mapimi extend throughout the western portion, a 
deserted region covered with sands and alkali. The princi- 
pal mountains in the north are El Pico Etereo, La Sierra del 
Carmen, and Lomerios de Peyotes. In the center, the 
Sierra of Santa Rosalia, San Marcos, La Fragua, La Paila, 
Sierra Azul, Coahuila, Chiflon, Angostura, and Sierra 
Madre. Saltillo is the capital, with 8,000 inhabitants. 

The whole state is very sparsely settled, and, as yet, is al- 
most entirely undeveloped, on account of its lack of suffi- 
cient water and the constant incursions of the Apaches upon 
the settlements. 

The principal productions of the state are stock, and agri- 
cultural products, such as grapes and fruits of various kinds. 
Some mines are also worked. 

Nuevo Leon. 

The state of ISTew Leon is bounded on the north and north- 
east by Tamaulipas, and on the west, north, and south by Coa- 
huila, and on the west and south by San Luis Potosi. In the 
western part, the state is traversed by the Sierra Mount- 
ains, extending from north to south, and in the north-east it 
is occupied by extensive table lands broken by mountain 
peaks extending from the base of the mountains toward the 
north-eastern border where the table lands break into 
canons traversed by arroyos. From the center of the state 
to the eastern borcler an extensive plain stretches from the 
base of the mountains. This extensive valley or plain is 
traversed by the river San Juan, which rises in the mount- 
ains in the western part of the state and passes Monterey, 
the capital, which is situated on its banks, and flows in a 
north-easterly direction across the border into Tamaulipas 



144 

and then into the Rio Grande. This is the only river in 
the state, and its main branches are the Pesquiera and the 
Rio Pilon. 

The valley of the San Juan is very fertile on the river 
bottoms and produces the usual tropical productions. Stock- 
raising and agriculture constitute the principal trade of the 
state. The capital (Monterey) has about 13,500 inhabit- 
ants, and the state is divided into 44 municipalities, with a 
population of about 200,000. 

Tamaulipas. 

The state of Tamaulipas consists of the extreme north- 
eastern portion of Mexico, and is divided into four districts 
— namely, Del Korte, Del Centre, Del Sur, and Cuarto Dis- 
trito. The principal ports are Matamoras, on the bank of 
the Rio Bravo or Rio Grande, near its mouth; Tampico, on 
the Tampico, Soto la Marina. Victoria is the capital of the 
state; inhabitants, 6,000. The south-eastern portion of this 
state is broken with the spurs of the Sierra Madre, while 
the northern and north-eastern portion is covered with 
plains. It is bounded on the north-east by the Rio Grande 
River and Texas opposite, and on the east by the Gulf of 
Mexico, and south by Vera Cruz and San Luis Potosi, on 
the west by Kew Leon. A small strip of the state extends 
along the Rio Grande on the north-west. 

The town of New Loredo is the proposed northern termi- 
nus of the Mexican Central Railroad, and is situated in the 
narrow strip of the state before mentioned, in the extreme 
north-western part of the state. The city of Matamoras and 
Tampico are its principal sea-ports, and the chief business 
of the state is stock-raising and some agricultural produc- 
tions, Matamoras is located on the Rio Grande about 20 
miles from the mouth of the river, and Tampico is located 
at the extreme south-eastern portion of the state, on thq 
Barra de Tampico. 

Arts and Manufactures. 

To fully comprehend the progress made by Mexico in arts 
and manufactures, we append the following information from 
the work of the learned and able writer, Antonio Garcia 
Cubas, published in Mexico, in 1876, from which we have 
obtained most of our information concerning the resources 
of Mexico. The following statements of facts will open the 



145 

eyes of many who think the people of Mexico a barbarous 
and half-civilized people; and it may as well be stated here, 
that although rude implements of agriculture and mining 
are found to some extent in portions of the republic, yet vast 
improvements have been going on, as the following from the 
pen of Cubas will verify. The work has been translated by 
Mr. George Henderson, of Mexico: 

" Carved work and filigree work in gold and silver yield 
in little or nothing to similar productions from abroad. The 
carriages and household furniture made in Mexico, with the 
exception of silk stufis, can compare in taste and solid work- 
manship with the best that can be imported from foreign 
countries. 

" In the fine arts, both in painting, as well as sculpture 
and architecture, our Academy of San Carlos, reported by 
travelers to be the first in America, displays the progress 
they have acquired. Some of their works will be exhibited 
to the public at the Philadelphia Exposition. The fabrica- 
tion of texturas, as well as other manufactures, has increased 
astonishingly. Several factories, sugar-mills, and distiller- 
ies, are established in the states of Mexico, Pueblo, Vera Cruz, 
Jalisco, Morelos, Guerrero, Tobasco, Oaxaca, and Yucatan. 

" Earthenware is made in Guanajuato, Mexico, and Pueblo 
in the state of Jalisco; and in the valley of Mexico there 
are various paper mills; also, some glass factories in Mexico 
and Pueblo; also, (at Durango) cotton factories in the 
greater part of the states; silk factories in Guanajuato, 
Queretaro, and Mexico. The number of cotton factories in 
the republic exceeds seventy. The states that may be con- 
sidered as manufacturing districts, being those of Pueblo, 
Jalisco, Queretaro, Mexico, and Vera Cruz." 

This number of factories existed in 1875, and, since that 
time, many others have been built in Sinaloa, Sonora, and 
other states. Also, flour-mills, glass and paper factories 
have since sprung up, and we only give the data in regard 
to flour-mills of the state of Sonora, obtained from Mr. 
David B. Blair, acquired by him through Mr. Ortiz, of this 
city. 

Total number of flour-mills on the line of the Sonora R. R. , 
31. There are, besides, many small mills that manufacture 
flour for local consumption. The total amount of tons of 
flour produced is 9,100 tons, from the various haciendas in 
Sonora. Besides this, the production of numberless other 
V7heat-producing regions never reaches the port of Guay- 
mas. 

10 



146 
Imports and Exports. 

The Mexican governmeDt maintains mercantile relations 
with England, France, the United States of America, 
Germany, Spain, and the Island of Cuba, Belgium, Italy, 
Central America, the United States of Colombia, and the 
Equator. 

According to the Annual Reports, the value of the im- 
portations may be estimated at 29,000,000 of dollars, as fol- 
lows: 

For ISVS. 

Cotton and cotton goods. . „ . , .o . , , $10,500,000 

Groceries, wines and spirits 5,000,000 

Articles free of duty , „ . . 3,300,000 

Hardware and ironmongery „ . . 2,100,000 

Miscellaneous 2,000,000 

Linen and hemp goods , 1,400,000 

Woolen goods 1,400,000 

Mixed goods 1,400,000 

Silks 1,000,000 

Earthenware, glass and crystal ware 600,000 

Drugs and chemicals 300,000 



Total $29,000,000 

This amount was imported from the following countries: 

For 1875. 

England .$10,200,000 

United States of America 7,500,000 

France » , » „ 4,780,000 

Germany 3,800,000 

Spain and the Island of Cuba 1,400,000 

United States of Colombia 1,200,000 

Central America , _ 100,000 

Italy, Belgium, and American RepublicSc . = c . . 20,000 



Total , , $29,000,000 

The exportations amounted to 32,300,000 of dollars, as 
follows: 

For 1875. 

Gold and siver coin $24,000,000 

Ores and minerals. 1,800,000 

Hides and skins in general 1,800,000 

Henequen, Ixtle and cordage 1,000,000 



147 

Timber and dye woods. . , $1,000,000 

Cofi'ee 600,000 

Vanilla o , o . „ -. . 400,000 

Cochineal 300,000 

Cattle . . . . o . . o o o 200,000 

Tobacco , 150,000 

Orchilla .„,. 130,000 

Fine pearls » . » 110,000 

Caoutchouc or Indian Rubber 100,000 

Sarsaparilla 90,000 

Wool .....,,.. 90,000 

Sole and upper leather ...„.„ 80,000 

Indigo .., , 80,000 

Jalap root o c o o 80,000 

"Coquita," small cocoanut » o e 50,000 

Frijoles (beans) , . . „ , 40,000 

Cotton 30,000 

Mother of pearl 25,000 

Starch 25,000 

Wheat 20,000 

Other agricultural and industrial productions. . . . 100,000 



Total $32,300,000 

These exports are made to the following countries: 

For 1875, 

England, to the amount of , $12,500,000 

United States of America 12,000,000 

France 5,000,000 

Germany 1,500,000 

Spain, and the Island of Cuba 800,000 

Central America 150,000 

Italy and Belgium , 50,000 



$32,000,000 
The balance goes to other countries, ._ . , » . . . . 300,000 



Total „ $32,300,000 

[The above estimates we obtain from the valuable work 
of Antonio Garcia Cubas entitled "The Republic of Mexico," 
published in 1876 in the city of Mexico.] 

Thus we see by a comparison of the tables that England 
imports nearly $300,000 more than the United States of 
America, and that only about one-quarter of the entire im- 



148 

ports of Mexico come from the United States, while Eng- 
land, in her little island from her warehouses at Liverpool 
and London, imports nearly one-third of the entire trade, 
and Germany imports less than either the United States or 
England. 

Of the exports, England still commands $500,000 more 
than the United States, though they are nearly eqtial, each 
absorbing over one-third of the entire trade. The balance 
of trade we also see is in favor of Mexico, the exports being 
in excess of the imports some #3,000,000. The lesson of this 
table we leave with our readers. It is plain to be seen that 
with a little effort the United States may take the lead and 
eventually supply the most of this trade, or by establishing 
warehouses in the manner stated elsewhere, command event- 
ually the greater proportion of the $30,000,000 or $40,000,- 
000 imports annual trade of Mexico. This trade, however, 
we thus see in its infancy, and as it increases it would prove 
of rich profit to our ports. 

Through the Mexican Consul we have obtained the fol- 
lowing data from the " Memoria de Hacienda y Credito Pub- 
lico," dated January 12, 1879, and issued as a public docu- 
ment at the City of Mexico: *' The exportations for the year 
1877 to 1878 reaches the amount, according to the balances 
respectively, of $28,777,508.07 (No. 5, Part IV). The le- 
gal importations of merchandise for the year 1877-78, may 
be estimated at the value of $21,462,621. Probably during 
the present economical year (1879) there will be less im- 
portations of foreign merchandise. It is calculated that 
more in value (about $4,000,000) are exported annually than 
imported by foreign merchants. In the past few years it 
has been notable that emigration to the capital has increased 
in Mexico and diminished the production of former years." 
From the same work we gather that Mexico is now supply- 
ing her own trade to a considerable amount by home man- 
ufactures, which has not failed to reduce the foreign trade. 
The same report says the falling off has been caused by the 
general effects of revolutions, and calculates the falling off 
from 1867 to 1877 at about $12,000,000. The work was 
printed in 1878, and consequently the last two years' report 
has not yet reached the public, but from the large importa- 
tions of railroad accouterments which are now being shipped 
principally from England and Hamburg, with the brisk re- 
opening of her mines, will undoubtedly bring her commerce 
of the present year up to in the neighborhood of former 
years, if it does not exceed them. One notable fact ap- 



149 

pears, however, that the balance of trade is undoubtedly in 
favor of Mexico, as she claims, of about $4,000,000, as a lib- 
eral estimate. The amount of smuggling will nearly balance 
the imports and exports either way of that class, but calculat- 
ing even that the smuggling of imports vastly exceeds the ex- 
ports unlawfully shipped and transported from her borders, 
yet it cannot exceed it more than the allowance made of 
about $3,000,000; hence, in any event, it is apparent that 
Mexico is not being impoverished, but is gaining continually 
against the commerce of other nations. 

From the "Hacienda y Credito Publico" of January 
12th, 1879, we also obtain the following interesting data: 
From 1874 to 1875, the exports to England from Mexico 
in various goods was $768,411.37; in metals, $7,612,788.57; 
and other merchandise, $888,637.96. Total, $9,219,873.40. 
The same to United States: various goods, $3,476,774.53; 
in metals, $6,696,538.55; other merchandise, $184,854.82. 
Total, $10,858,167.80. Total amount of exports in that 
year was $27,818,788, of which the United States received 
$1,188,294.40 more than England, and over one-third of all 
the exports of Mexico. The imports from New Y"ork City 
alone in three years and six months amounted to $3,158,- 
216.48. 

The " Boletin de Sociedad Agricola Mexicana," of De- 
cember 11th, 1880, an official paper, published in Mexico, 
calculates the amount of exportations for the year 1880, in 
round numbers, at about $35,000,000, of which amount the 
same paper credits the productions of the mines at, about 
$30,000,000 — an increased activity having taken place dur- 
ing the last year — and the balance, or about $5,000,000, is 
the value of the other productions exported. 

The vast amount of material being imported for the con- 
struction of railroads makes it almost impossible to reach a 
calculation of the probable amount of imports, until all the 
official reports are returned to the general government, and 
given to the public, for the past year. 

These data are sufficient to encourage our merchants to 
make an eftbrt to secure this valuable trade, which may be 
increased almost indefinitely on the development of the vast 
resources of Mexico. 

Duties. 

This important subject deserves more than a passing no- 
tice, and we might as well state in the beginning that the 



150 

heavy duties imposed are a great injury to the commercial 
progress of the Mexican Republic. Although lumber, ma- 
chinery, and agricultural implements, and iron and mining 
tools, with drugs and scientific apparatus, are admitted free 
— which, to say the least, is a wise provision — and tiie ex- 
portation of ores is also unattended with duties of any kind, 
yet, in order to raise the revenues of the government, with- 
out the taxation of lands or real estate, heavy duties are 
imposed on almost every article exported from or imported 
across the border. Goods or agricultural commodities, of 
whatsoever kind, being shipped from one seaport town to 
another, no difference if they are natural productions, they 
are, however, subject to a heavy duty, to be paid at the port 
of disembarkation, and this revenue is applied to the State 
and municipal coffers; and foreign goods, having once paid 
the government import dues at the port of entry, for the 
towns in the interior, are still subject to an increased inland 
duty, in case the merchant finds it to his advantage and 
interest commercially to remove them to other towns and 
cities. 

The home duties and foreign duties, once paid, are rede- 
manded on removal from their original destination, which 
often discourages inland traders. The interior duty touches 
every article brought into market for sale, which it becomes 
necessary to pay, or leave a pledge at La Garita, in Sinaloa, 
and other ports, just before entering the city. Gold coin or 
dust coming in to be shipped to foreign ports pays four per 
cent. a,nd silver coin ten per cent, inland duty. 

As an illustration of home duties, the following will 
suffice : "When a dozen of eggs, a chicken, a hen, or any of the 
gallinaceous tribe, Chili pepper, or vegetables of any kind, 
or a burro load of charcoal, which is commonly used in all 
Mexican towns for cooking, are brought into town from the 
interior or east of the city limits, the vender has to pay a 
small duty, which goes to the support of the corporation, or 
town and government, while the rich man, owning thousands 
of acres of land, cattle, and mines, is scarcely aware of the 
influence of direct taxation. His lands, or houses, or cattle, 
or horses, or mules, which he owns by the thousands, are 
not taxed, while the laboring and industrial classes support 
the government by direct taxation. 

The seaport or foreign duties are much higher than they 
should be to promote a healthful interchange of commerce, 
being from fifty to one hundred per cent., and sometimes 
even higher, on the first cost, on many articles; besides 



161 

which some articles, under different administrations, meet 
with a total prohibition, while others escape free from duty 
such as we have mentioned. Flour, sugar, coifee, and not 
unfrequentljteaand tobacco, are sometimes entirely prohibit- 
ed. This is, however, not so now, we believe, as to either 
of the states of Sonora, Chihuahua, Sinaloa, or Durango. 

We simply give the facts without comment, and leave 
them as we find them. The richer classes bear a portion of 
this taxation in the consumption of all articles, we might 
add; and the non-taxation of lauds or mines is not without 
its advantages. These enormous duties and prohibitions 
have led many times to peculation and malfeasance in the 
faithful discharge of official obligations, as the extensive 
importer is sure to banter the custom-house officers, in order 
to diminish the import duties. This, when resorted to, is 
arranged as follows: 

The consignee appropriates to himself one-half of the 
custom-house dues; one-fourth goes to the custom-house 
officers, and one-fourth to the government; and then, to com- 
plete the climax of shrewd maneuvering, the consignee 
charges the whole import duties to the home merchant, or 
shipper. This, in Mexico, is called " Yankee Wiring,'' or 
'''■ Intriga de Estados Unidos." 

The duty has been as high as fifty per cent., or 1500,000 
on $1,000,000 worth of merchandise, which amount, some 
merchants of the city of Mazatlan have yearly sent to them 
from Europe to be sold on commission; and it is readily 
seen that it becomes a great and important object, and more 
especially to the importer or consignee, to retrench as much 
as possible this enormous sum flowing into the treasury of 
the government. 

The duties in Mexico are computed by weight mostly; 
on dry-goods, by the square meter; but other goods not on 
the list before mentioned are provided for in the tariff at 
55 per cent, on appraised value or first-cost price. Quick- 
silver escapes duty, and the larger part of this article is im- 
ported by Mr. Thomas Bell of this city, who is the agent of 
Barron, Forbes & Company of the City of Mexico, and a 
member of the firm of Thomas Bell & Company, formerly 
Barron & Co. The former partner of Mr. Bell was Mr. Bar- 
ron, who was the nephew of Barron, of Barron, Forbes & Co. 
The best property of the state of Jalisco belongs to this 
latter wealthy firm, while they own half the town of Tepic, 
and other valuable property in the Republic of Mexico. 
Clothing pays the enormous duty of 132 per cent. The pol- 



152 

icy of Mexico generally is a tariff on all goods produced in 
the republic, and all goods expected to be produced — rather 
an extreme point for the policy of protection, yet it has re- 
sulted in a wonderful development of her industries. There 
is a very heavy duty on flour. It reaches $5 per hundred 
weight, or five cents per pound. The tarift", we thus see, is 
enormous, and should be much less; but the advance of the 
locomotive will soon produce a wonderful change. Mean- 
while, the trade should not be allowed to lapse on this ac- 
count. 

We add the following data on duties: Dry-goods of the 
costliest and cheapest grade run from 9 to 22 cents per 
square meter, while linen goods and more costly fabrics run 
from 22 to 80 cents per square meter; bar or sheet iron, 6 
cents per kilogram; other classes of manufactured iron, 29 
cents ; stoves with brass ornaments, 29 cents; while the duty 
on plain stoves and complete utensils is 19 cents. The laws 
regulating the duties are uniform throughout the republic, 
although some years past each state passed its own laws, 
and the consequence was that traders found different duties 
imposed, according to the locality. 

The Tirade with Mexico. 

This brings us to the subject of trade with the great re- 
public of Mexico. This trade is now mostly in the hands 
of European capitalists in London, Liverpool, Hamburg and 
Paris, but a fair proportion also goes to the Eastern cities 
of the United States. There has been an apathy existing in 
San Francisco that is hard to explain in regard to this trade, 
and on consulting with some of the wholesale merchants of 
this city, we find that the almost universal custom of ex- 
tending credit in the republic of Mexico, from 60 and 80 
days to 6, 12 and 18 months, has induced the capitalists of 
this city to almost neglect the immense trade lying at their 
very doors. There are some large commission houses, how- 
ever, who have found the trade profitable, among which we 
may mention Cobrera, Roma & Co., W. Loaiza, I. Thanu- 
hauser, A. Koenecke & Co., the Continental Oil Co., which 
has almost a monopoly in oil, and some others. The length 
of time demanded for credit has been the principal cause 
of the apathy existing here, the risk being considered too 
great to enter upon. Others claim that the completion of the 
railroad connections East will destroy the trade now exist- 
ing on this coast outside of California productions, since the 



153 

middle-men or commission merchants here will have to 
order their goods from New York, St. Louis, Chicago and 
Boston, and then compete with Eastern merchants, from 
whom they have purchased their goods, for the trade of 
Mexico. 

They claim that Eastern capitalists can lay down their 
goods at the ports of the republic of Mexico for the same 
price that they can be purchased and laid down at San 
Francisco. Thus this trade is cut off; and well knowing 
the shrewd business tact and knowledge of the merchants 
of Mexico will lead them to order their goods direct, with- 
out the assistance of middle-men, they very naturally decline 
to enter the field of competition. However, several business 
houses of San Francisco, in spite of these difiiculties, have 
sent Mr. Chas. W. Sturtevant to Guaymas and Mazatlan in 
their behalf, to solicit the trade and patronage of Mexico. 
Among others we may mention the Cutting Packing Co., 
Jas. R. Kelly & Co., Prescott, Scott & Co., Risdon Iron 
Works, T. H. Goodman, the Pacific Rolling Mill Co., John 
Skinker, Main & Winchester, A. G. Halhdie, C. C. Burr & 
Co., General John F. Miller, Goodyear Rubber Co., Parke 
& Lacey, Pacific Saw Manufacturing Co., Williams, Di- 
mond & Co., General Rosecrans, and many others. 

Quite a number of orders have been already sent, and 
quite a brisk trade is expected to be opened. Still, we find 
on reading some of the Mexican papers, that the editorials 
on this project are fully alive to the actual state of facts, and 
they are loth to pay a profit to middle-men, when they can 
avoid it by purchasing direct from Eastern capitalists. The 
sole competition in the future will be between the actual 
products of Cahfornia and those of the East to secure this 
trade. We hope this will induce our capitalists to enter 
more into the manufacturing industries that may be built 
up on this coast, and thus place our state on a level with 
Eastern manufacturers. This will eventually come, and 
bring with it the benefits that manufacturing industries 
always bring. 

The foreign merchants resident in the ports of Mazatlan 
and Guaymas, well knowing the taste of the Mexican peo- 
ple, have goods manufactured especially for the Mexican 
trade, and thus have secured a footing that other outside 
traders have not. The influence of these merchants is very 
great, and they being intelligent, and educated especially for 
business, and emphatically trained merchants, have monopo- 
lized, to a great extent, the trade of this part of Mexico. 



154 

They have, in many instances, placed the custom-house offi- 
cers and governmental authorities under obligations to 
them, and are on the best of terms with them; hence the 
difficulty of securing a foothold in the trade of Mexico. 
The interests of these home merchants is to control the 
trade, and they can aftbrd to wait for their patrons. The 
outside merchants demand cash or short credit, and the 
result is, that the available coin will thus be absorbed by the 
outside merchants; hence, the result would be a longer time 
to wait on the part of the home merchants doing a whole- 
sale business in those ports. The natural consequence is, 
that San Francisco will find the opposition of the German 
merchants especially to be very serious, and they will have 
little desire to make purchases of outsiders, or induce their 
patrons to do so either, against their own interests. This 
will, however, apply only to goods not obtainable at a profit 
in competition with California or United States manufac- 
tured goods or articles. 

When a foreign vessel is about to enter the port of 
Mazatlan or Guaymas, to land her goods or cargo, a signal is 
arranged between the vessel and the home merchants. Sig- 
naling for them on arrival, the merchants, knowing the 
amount of duties demanded on the cargo, immediately visit 
the custom-house officers, and arrange the matter in this 
manner. The merchant says: "I have a cargo on which 
the duties are, in a round sum, f 100,000. If you take $25,- 
000, (or $30,000, or even a less amount) we will land here. If 
not, the vessel goes on to Guaymas, (or Mazatlan, as the case 
may be) and will unload there. Now, what do you say ?" 
The niatter is generally arranged satisfactorily. 

This is also true, to some extent, in relation to the smug- 
gling in of prohibited articles. "When caught, a •' dividirse" 
or " divide" is made, often sharing half and half or less; and 
in this manner the duties are to some extent evaded. 

This was true, however, ten years ago. Official virtue 
may have improved since then. The vessels have been 
known to wait outside the harbor for 30, 60, or 80 days, be- 
fore a satisfactory bargain has been made. We obtain the 
above data from a reliable source, and give it as the result 
of inquiries among wholesale merchants of this city. 

The proper way to secure this trade, in our opinion, is to 
secure the friendly co-operation of the German and other 
foreign merchants in those ports, by building large ware- 
houses in San Francisco and charging but little for storage, so 
that goods may be placed here to await the sale and pur- 



155 

chase of the merchants of those and other ports. The ob- 
ject of this is to compete with the European warehouses of 
Liverpool, London, and Hamburg. The warehouse system 
of the United States is defective and needs improvement. 
Our system should be similar to or better than our foreign 
competitors', so that the commerce of the United States 
should be equal at least to that of Europe. Most of the 
products of England or Germany can be produced in the 
United States, if proper attention is drawn to it. The bal- 
ance of trade in many articles of export is already in our 
favor, and by establishing a large warehouse system we may 
command a commerce that England or Germany has never 
enjoyed. The trade with China, India, Mexico, Australia, 
and Asia may be ours if an efibrt is made to secure it. Al- 
most all articles of export brought from European Asia into 
the ports of Mexico come from the warehouses of Liverpool, 
London, and Hamburg. It seems to us that if the govern- 
ment of the United States were to build government ware- 
houses in San Francisco, ISTew York, Boston, Baltimore, and 
New Orleans, and rent the various departments to merchants 
in those cities at a reasonable charge, with no duties im- 
posed on exports as it is now under our laws, the cargoes of 
vessels could be deposited for reshipment to Mexico and 
other ports on the reception of orders from every point. 
The law as it now stands allows vessels to land their cargoes 
and pay no duties for three years, unless the goods are taken 
from the warehouse and disposed of within our borders; but 
if the merchant desires to ship his goods to a foreign port, 
they are entered as exports and no duty is paid. This is 
proper, for the goods do not thus compete with home manu- 
factures. But the law might be improved in exempting 
from duties entirely all goods landed in warehouses or depots 
for foreign shipment, unless they are disposed of within our 
borders. For instance, under the present law, when the 
three years have elapsed the goods have to be reshipped, in 
order to avoid paying the duties, and again returned for 
three years more. This incurs an expense that diminishes 
the profits. If the goods placed thus in warehouses for for- 
eign shipment were exempt as before stated, they might ac- 
cumulate indefinitely, and thus fill large depots in those ports 
awaiting orders from all parts of the world. Then if the 
government were to build these warehouses the rent would 
soon pay for the outlay, and a revenue would be continually 
pouring into the national treasury, and the merchants could 
thus keep their capital invested in goods. This we think is 



156 

one of the solutions of the problem of the revival of Ameri- 
can commerce. American bottoms would soon be carrying 
the commerce of the world, and our national wealth accumu- 
lating, until the head-lights of our steamers carrying the na- 
tional flag would be seen on all the high seas and in every 
port. The condition of our foreign commerce plainly indi- 
cates that something should be done, and we only oft'er the 
above suggestions and hope if they have any value that our 
commerce may be profited by them. We should like to 
see a bill presented in Congress to that effect, and hope that 
the experiment will be made as we have indicated; or some 
other equally as good, if not better. 

The Trade of San Francisco with Mexico and Cen- 
tral America. 

The following we obtain from the Journal of Commerce 
of this city of January 27th, last: 

Our exports to Mexico have not increased for years. 
With Central America they have increased very largely — 
the reason being that we take the products of Central 
America and market them, and sell her our products in 
return. 

Exports of domestic goods for a series of years have been 
as follows: 

Mexico. Cen. America. 

1874 $1,006,328 00 

1875 1,077,286 00 

1876 1,012,554 00 

1877 1,304,767 00 

1878 1,624,241 00 11,079,277 00 

1879 1,308,075 00 1,092,649 00 

1880 1,704,140 00 1,060,806 00 

San Francisco trade with these countries consists princi- 
pally in the import of cofi:ees, sugars, cochineal, cocoas, salt 
hides, etc., and the export of miscellaneous goods. 

Our imports from Mexico and Central America for a 
series of years have been as follows: 

Cen. Amer. 
Mexico. States. 

1874 $4,198,214 $2,416,556 

1875,. 4,027,570 1,826.688 

1876 5,033,628 1,612,494 

1877 4,863,077 2,639,516 

1878 4,526,136 2,884,223 

1879 3,905,716 2,049,239 

1880 4,739,767 2,622,174 



167 

The imports from Mexico have consisted mainly of coin 
and bullion — the following giving the figures of imports of 
coin and bullion for the undermentioned years: 

1874 $3,774,347 

1875 3,647,607 

1876 4,686,663 

1878 4,108,198 

1879 3,667,299 

1880 4,379,054 

The balance is made up of hides, salt from Carmen Island 
and fruit. The orchilla for shipment in transit to Great 
Britain is not taken into account. We occasionally get a 
little sugar and coffee, but of no great value or importance. 

The imports from Central America are made up princi- 
pally of coffee, sugar and cochineal, with a little treasure. 

The trade of San Francisco with those countries will, in 
the future, show a much greater development than it has 
in the past. 

Traveling in Mexico. 

There are but few roads for stages in the whole republic 
of Mexico, and these only connect with the principal' cities, 
besides the railroads now running. Hence, most of the 
traveling is done on the backs of mules or horses; the former 
being preferred on account of their endurance, as the rides 
are all of long distances. During the hot months, from 
May to August, the day's travel is commenced before day- 
break, and continued until 12 or 1 o'clock, when a shelter 
can be found from the blistering heat. No stoppages are 
made on the road, generally, unless stopping places are 
located for that purpose; and the whole day's travel is ended 
by 1 o'clock, when the animals are baited, either with food, 
and also with water, which are carried over many routes, or 
else the animals are staked out with ropes tied to a stake 
driven in the ground. Rest and food are in order until the 
next day's travel, (long before daylight) is commenced. 
Mules or donkeys carry almost everything while traveling 
away from the stage roads; and often on these, long cara- 
vans of heavily-laden animals are seen. 

A complete kit for camping is always carried on trips into 
the mountains; and every one goes armed for emergencies. 
On the public highways comparative safety reigns; but it is 
always safer to travel in companies, and not forget the 
American's pocket protector. Small bands of savages, most- 



158 

]y Apaches, still rove in the mountains and over the plains 
occasionally, and are ready to commit murder and robbery. 
Brigandage is not entirely done away with; and if the trav- 
eler is alone, he must, in dangerous places, keep on the look- 
out for lurking savages or brigands. Sometimes a solitary 
brigand will not hesitate to attack a traveler, and the manner 
of attack is often very singular. As a case in point, a traveler 
is responsible for the following. While traveling along one 
of the highways in northern Sonora, he was startled by the 
"click" of a horse's hoofs behind him, and the peculiar 
" swish " through the air of a lariat, which fell over his 
shoulders; and before he knew it almost, his arms were pin- 
ioned to his sides. Fortunately, he had the presence of mind 
to turn his horse's head, being well mounted, and spur his 
horse in pursuit of the brigand, or he would have been un- 
horsed in an instant. It took but a moment to free himself 
from the lariat and draw his pistol and shoot the brigand 
dead on the spot. The object was to drag him from his 
horse and over the ground until he was insensible, and then 
rob him, and possibly murder him. We give this only 
as an illustration of the perils of solitary traveling. Camp- 
ing out is often romantic, and very agreeable; but if one 
intends to travel in Mexico at present, he must expect to 
endure some hardships. It is necessary to acquire the Span- 
ish language, or sufficient to converse readily, and also to 
be provided with letters of introduction, either from some 
well-known Mexican citizen, or foreigner located in Mexico, 
in order to avoid many unpleasant and aggravating occur- 
rences. The people are hospitable and courteous, and expect 
foreigners to respect their institutions, and reserve their 
comments on the government and politics to themselves. 

Revolutions, 

The disturbances and overthrow of the civil authorities 
were, at one time, quite serious afiairs in Mexico. Small 
bands of robbers would enter the town, take possession, and 
levy a tribute on all the citizens. This style of robbery has 
been dignified with the name of revolution, when it is 
nothing more than the pranks of highwaymen. The most 
of these revolutions, so-called, are this and nothing more. 
Some years ago another style of revolution was adopted, that 
savored more of a conspiracy to defraud the government 
than anything else. Some of the large business houses, on 
the approach of their vessels laden with cargoes would pay 



159 

a small band of ruffians to put up a disturbance and over- 
throw the civil authorities, often in collusion with them, 
until the vessel had landed her cargo and the goods were 
stored away; in this manner evading the duties. Some of 
the oldest and most respectable business houses have often 
engaged in this revolutionary fraud, and acquired immense 
wealth thereby. This was stopped about seven years ago 
by the severity of the general government in ferreting out 
and punishing the perpetrators. Restitution was demanded 
in one instance, that cost the firm $150,000 more than they 
had ever made by it. This severity was exercised in other 
instances, and it put a stop to this species of speculation. In 
some instances during these disturbances, to give color to* 
their innocence, a compromise was effected with the custom- 
house officers, aud about one-fourth of the legal duties were 
paid. The prompt and effective punishment of this class of 
offenders by the late governors and chief executives of the 
republic has stopped the most of this marauding, and the 
republic is now comparatively safe for travelers and settlers. 
Foreigners who do not mix in political discussions or squab- 
bles, and keep a close mouth in relation to the affiiirs of the 
republic or states, are mostly left undisturbed, as their pres- 
ence is recognized as desirable. 

From the sentiments expressed in the editorials of the 
Mexican press, we gather the fact that immigration is 
desired on the part of the Mexican people, and they are 
opening their hospitable doors to the immense number of 
immigrants that are now flocking over the border-lines of 
the frontier. The old fashioned immigrant wagons are 
again seen on the road, crossing the frontier at El Paso, and 
remind old "49-ers" of the early days of California. Capi- 
talists are flocking by the hundreds from all parts of the 
United States into Tucson, and from thence into Mexico ; 
also, at El Paso. These four states are fast being settled 
by these immigrants, and yet there is room in all that vast 
expanse of territory for the miner, settler, and capitalist. 

One great advantage, besides numerous others, will be in 
the effective stopping of evety class of marauding revolu- 
tions; while the country will be settled up, new mines will 
be opened, and abandoned haciendas be made to pay rich 
returns for their management. Mexico will be the gainer 
in numerous ways; her soil will be extensively cultivated, 
and her mines produce an enormous annual revenue; her 
towns will be more flourishing, and her exports consequently 
increased. This will again benefit the nations who may be 



160 

in commercial relations with her inhabitants. The more 
producing element to develop her vast resources, the more 
extensive her trade with foreign nations will become. There 
are yet some facts to be taken into serious consideration in 
relation to the settlement of Mexican territory by American 
citizens, that will be particularly referred to hereafter in the 
question of the acquisition of property in any of the states of 
Mexico by aliens. 

Annexation. 

In order to disabuse the minds of some persons who may 
think that any of the northern states of Mexico will at an 
early period be annexed to the United States, we present 
the following facts. There is a strong feeling among the 
Mexican people akin to patriotism, which very positively de- 
clares that not another inch of the territory of the Mocte- 
zumas shall be ceded to the United States or any other 
power. This is not the only reason that exists unfavorable 
to annexation; there are others of importance, the principal 
one being that capitalists who reside in the United States 
and Europe who have invested in mines and lands in Mexico 
will be opposed to annexation, since their property under 
the laws of Mexico escapes free from taxation, and their in- 
fluence will be against it. Secondly, the large property 
owners in these four states for the same reason will be op- 
posed to it. Thirdly, a large element in the United States, 
located mostly in the South, who cultivate, in common with 
Mexico, cotton and sugar-cane and other productions of the 
tropics, are opposed to it. Also, the additional federal taxes 
to support the governments in the additional territory, should 
it be annexed, makes the scheme an expensive one; besides 
the enormous price that would be demanded by the Mexi- 
can government for this territory, which contains the richest 
mines in the republic, would present an additional obstacle. 
Again, the advantages received would not repay the enor- 
mous outlay that would add to our already overburdened 
national government debt. Lastly, the cultivation of friend- 
ly business interests and relations between the two repub- 
lics will reduce the duties, so that when iron bands have 
joined their commerce, friendly and mutual interchanges 
will banish the idea of annexation. "We think the advantages 
will be the same, but without the disadvantages that would 
be necessarily incurred. 

The influx of immigration will add to the security of 



161 

property and person, which is all that settlers in a foreign 
country generally desire. Mexico is a great nation, and is 
well known to be the richest nation in the world in mineral 
resources. If they are developed by intelhgent and well- 
directed labor, her future is a brilliant one. The telegraph 
and railway are already carrying into her limits the advan- 
tages that will make her one of the most powerful nations 
on the globe. 

Steam engines are plying in her gold and silver mines, 
imported by foreign capital. Soon her seaports will be 
thrown open on both sides, and she will command the com- 
merce of the world. Far be it from the American people 
to covet her vast territory, with all her riches, though un- 
developed they be. Rather let us extend to her a friendly 
hand, assisting her to take a place among the advanced na- 
tions of the earth, with liberty inscribed on her flag, and 
prosperity extending throughout her limits. 

Her form of government is Republican, let us remem- 
ber; and she too, with our own republic, is solving the ques- 
tion of self-government. Stormy though her career has 
been, yet, with all her revolutions she has claims still upon 
our friendly interest; and with a commendable spirit of pa- 
triotism she is attempting to educate her people and de- 
velop her vast resources under a Republican form of gov- 
ernment. 

As Americans love their soil and take pride in their 
institutions, so does Mexico, in like manner, believe in her 
nation, her people, and looks forward to an era of prosperity 
equal to any nation on earth. 

For centuries she has been bowed down under the 
weight of an antiquated despotism, and is but passing 
through her childhood as a republic. With the fall of Na- 
poleon, in France, Mexico awoke to put off the shackles of 
her Spanish conquerors. Hernando Cortez found her a half 
barbaric but magnificent empire, ruled by the native princes, 
who wielded a despotic power in the palaces of the Mocte- 
zuraas. Spain left her a ruined empire, with half of her 
people without the aid of the basis of modern civilization. 

Ignorance spread its pall upon her future as a republic, 
and storms of revolution after revolution was the natural 
result. But a new era is now dawning, that gives the prom- 
ise of a magnificent future. She is favorably situated for 
commerce — perhaps more favorably than any other country 
in the world; for she touches two oceans and a hundred 
islands, and stands midway between North and South 
11 



162 

America, and midway between all the commerce of Asia 
and Europe. We boast of our mines in California, Nevada, 
and the territories, when we have but the border of the vast 
mineral region that nestles in her bosom. She possesses 
the matrix of all our mines of gold, and silver, and copper, 
and other minerals, while we have but the outcroppings. 
Her mines have for centuries yielded vast riches, and are 
almost untouched in comparison with her hidden treasures 
that are yet to be developed. It is no wonder that capital- 
ists are turning their eyes upon Mexico from all parts of the 
world. England, and Germany, and France have for years 
been quietly gathering the flower of her commerce; and 
even now the parties interested in Mexico from these na- 
tions are attempting to discourage American capitalists from 
invading their special favored commercial territory, as they 
are pleased to term it: but although they denounce the 
Mexican government and people, they take care to continue 
their quiet absorption of her wealth. It is time American 
capitalists should be vigilant; and if any nation is to develop 
the vast resources of Mexico, and profit thereby, the en- 
ergetic American people are to contribute their share in this 
great and remunerative work. 




AKE pleasur 

of the SOI 

e new, tempo 




Lving an iinbr 
Southern i 
Lathil 




t.oo L 

/ladera (Yosei 
^lojave, Newh 
)ara), Los An( 
\.na (San Die| 
steamers), coi^ |^° 
Southern Pac l.k 
Stages for Ph q.jo 



10.15 A. M. 
9.40 
9.30 
9.25 
9.00 
8.30 
8.20 
7.50 
6.55 
6.25 
5.00 



[or Florence), 
Pantano (Sta 
Tombstone). 

J A 

San Francisco 

KICO. 



6.30 P. M. 




a 


mi^oiwA^ 


a 


Mmw MM^m& ^^B 


TIONS. 




Stag 


E CONNEC 




From 


To 


Miles. 


Fare. 




Maricopa 


Phoanix Daily 

Prescott " 


28 
150 


$ 5 00 
25 00 

5 00 

9 00 

10 00 

10 00 

20 00 




Casa Grande. . 
Tucson 

Pantano 

Benson 

Lordsburg. . . . 


Florence Daily 

Pinal " 

Riverside " 

Silver King ... " 
Globe City.. . . " 


30 
62 
66 
67 
.126 




San Xavier.5,„ida^^sE,T. 

Arivaca " 

Oro Blanco. " 


7 

70 
76 


1 50 

6 00 

7 00 




T',,1-,0,. Tuesdays 
-L"bac ,S: Saturd' ys 

JMagdalena. " 

Hermosillo. " 

Guaymas.. . Tuesdays 


60 
135 

275 
370 


5 00 
10 00 
18 00 
26 00 




Altar ...... Mondays 

Guaymas via Altar ' ' 


160 
430 


10 00 
30 00 




H arshaw Daily 

Patagonia " 

Washington . . " 


42 

42 
51 


6 00 

6 00 

7 50 




Contention Gy. Daily 
Tombstone .... " 


22 

31 


4 00 
4 00 




Silver City .... Daily 


55 


8 75 




Deming 


Ft. Cummings. Daily 
Terminal a., t. &.s. f. 
R. E., Tia Cumming 


18 
40 


4 00 
8 00 




Mesilla,viaCmnmiiii- Daily 
El Paso, via Mesilla " 


80 
130 


12 00 
19 50 




El Paso 


San Antonio 

Eastland .... 

(TEXAS & PACIFIC RY. ) 


500 
450 






-^ 


fTpE Le8P.3{ 


Work of this 

ROSS ITSELF. It is 

352 miles from San 
vations : lower, at 
unnel 9, 3034 feet 

967 feet in length, 
America. It is be- 
rom San Francisco, 

1, vasses below the 
1 1 . lies thence east- 
t. 




The only 
jL nature wher 
located midway be 
Francisco. Lengtl 
Tunnel 9, 2956 fee 
Difference in eleva 

The SAN Fi 
being- one of the 1 
tvveen Nbwhall an 
and 26 miles from 

The S. P. R. 
Level of the Sea, 
ward, tile greatest 


Elailroad Engineering 

e THE ROAD TS M.IDE TO C 

tween Keene and Girard, 
1 of Loop, 3795 feet. Ele 
t ; upper, at grade over 1 
tions, 78 feet. 

RNANDO TUNNEL in 6 
ingest railroad tunnels in 
d San Fernando, 456 miles f 
L.OS Angeles. 

R.., two miles west of In;li 
and continues below it for 6 
depth reached being 266 fee 





El 
of 
id 
ta 



lal 



to 

rs. 

he 

-ch 

an 

m- 

he 

jue 

-m- 

cs, 

lal 




►xl- RAILROAD COMPANIES -P^ 

OF 

ARIZONA^ NEW MEXICO 

T7TAKE pleasure in announcing tlie opening for traffic 
of the SOUTHERN OVEELAND ROUTE to 
the new, temporary, Terminal Station at 

Miles from San Francisco 

Jiving an imbroken all-rail line from Eastern and 

Southern Cities via Council Bluffs, Ogden, 

Lathrop, Los Angeles and Yuma. 



LOCAL TIME-SCHEDULE, 



A.H.XZONA. EXPRESS. 

4/^/-v P. M. Daily — ^Via Oakland and Martinez, 
•yJ^ for Lathrop (Stockton and Gait), Merced, 
Madera (Yosemite and Big Trees), Visalia, Sumner, 
Mojave, Newhall (San Buenaventura and Santa Bar- 
bara), Lo3 Angeles, Santa jl/o«ica, Wilmington, Sa'nta 
Ana (San Diego), Colton and Yuma (Colorado Eiver 
Steamers), connecting direct with Daily Trains of th. 
Southern Pacific Railroad of Arizona for Maricopa 
(Stages for Phcenbc: and Prescott), Casa Grande (Stages 
for Florence), Tucson (Stages for Guaymas and Sonora), 
Pantano (Stages for Patagonia), Benson (Stages for 
Tombstone), and for Doming, 1208 miles from 
San Francisco, (Stages for New Mexico and Texas.) 



SLEEPING C-^RS 

Between Oakland, Los Angeles, Yuma, and Benson. 



TKIRI3-CX.ASS TR/VIBT. 

5pvpk P. M. Dai'iy— Via Oakland, Martinez and 
• ^ ^ Latlirop, for Los Angeles, Yuma and points 
iu Arizona and New Mexico. 



LOS AHCELES 



Arrive 
YUMA 



Arrive 
TUCSON 



LOCAL TICKET RATES. 


Between 

SAN FRANCISCO 
SACRAMENTO 


% 1 

at S 

s ■^ 1 

p 


3 
o . 

i g 

@ « 

(3 


< 


-J 

9 "i 

R _ .= 

g s s 
J3 


Los Angeles 

(4S2) 


23.00 


J .34.00 


18.00 


12.00 


Santa Barbara. . 

(."162) 


30.00 
















45.00 




35.00 


25.00 


(731) 


Maricopa 

(SS7) 


GO. 00 


tios.oo 


50.00 


40.00 


Tucson 

(97S) 


69.00 


tl2G.00 


59.00 


49.00 


Benson 

(1024) 


73.60 


+135.00 


63.60 


53.60 




89.00 








(1178) 








Deming 

(120,f) 


92.00 














t— 20 Days. t— 30 Days. 
LIMITED FIRST-CLASS. 

San Francisco to Santa Barbara 1?25.00 

UNLIMITED FIRST-CLASS. 


Los Angeles and Marico; 
Los Angeles and Tucson 
Los Angeles and Pantau 


a 37.00 

4G.00 


D 48. SO 


. 50. 60 


Los Angeles an 
Los Angeles an 


d G->ce 


_ 66. on 


d Deming 69.00 | 


Children under 12 years, Half-Fare. Under 5 years, Free. 


Between San Francisco, Los Angeles and Benson, 
Hates pek Bbrtil 

Between San Francisco antj Los Ang;eles S2.50 

.< " " Yuma 5.00 

.. " " Benson 7.51) 



Central Pacific Railroad. | 


Ex,!f,°". 


It 


Decemhei- ISth, ISSO. ■ 


12.35 p. M. 
12.10 p. M. 

8.20 A. M. 

7.54 

7.46 

7.28 

6.55 

.5.50 

.5.15 

4.34 

4.15 

4.08 

3.20 

2.30 

2.10 

1.66 A. M. 


4.00 r. M. 
4.20 


4 
94 
105 
108 
114 
127 
152 
1B2 
178 
185. 
18S 
207 
227 
235 
241 


Iv San Francisco ar 


,v LiitUlop ar 

Ripon 


8.25 P. M. 

S.49 

8.57 

9.14 

9.45 
10.50 
11.14 

11.52 i: M. 
12.10 A. M. 
12.17 

1.02 

1.50 

2.10 

2.25 A. M. 






















ar .Goshen Iv 


Southern Pacific Railroad. 


2.25 A. ,M. 

2.55 

3.20 

4.08 

.5.25 

G.35 

7.37 

8.30 

950 
10.45 

11.50 A. M. 
12.10 r. .M. 
12.40 
12.55 

1.10 

1.55 p. M. 


241 
251 
202 
282 
314 
330 
350 
.352 
362 
3S2 
406 
431 
439 
452 
450 
461 
432 

482 
491 
494 
495 
501 
511 
515 
524 
540 
543 
503 
509 
5S3 
612 
642 
6S3 
731 


Iv Goshen ar 

TuKire 


l'.27 *' "'■ 

12;04 A. ,M. 
10.43 p. M. 

9.30 

8.25 

7.30 
6.15 
4.55 
3.50 
3.15 
2.35 
2.20 
2.00 
1.16 p. M 

10.15 A. M. 

0.40 

0.30 

9.25 

9.00 

8.30 

8.20 

7.60 

6.55 

6.25 

600 

4.30 

3.25 

1.35 A. SI. 
11..50 p. SI. 

9.20 

0.30 P. SI. 


Delano 










Tehachapi Suiuniit 






Lan<< 


Newhall 

San Fernando I'umiel 


ar i.os Angeles iv 


2.25 P..M. 

3.10 

3.20 

3-30 

4.00 

4.45 

5.05 

6.40 

7.10 

7.30 

9.10 

9.35 

10.40 p. M. 
12.15 A. M, 

1.50 

4.10 

7.00 A. M. 


Iv Los Angeleo ar 








Spadra 






















av Yuma. Iv 


Southern Pacific R. R. of Arizona 
Southern Pacific R. R. of New Mexico, 


7.45 A. M. 

8.44 
11.40 A. M. 

3,28 p. u. 

0.05 

7.46 
11.55 p. M. 

12.50 A. SI. 

2.52 

4.00 

7.33 
10.33 


731 
747 
793 
850 
887 
913 
978 

978 
1000 
1024 
1064 

1115 
1138 
1178 
120S 


Iv Yuma ar 


0.00 P. SI. 
6.10 

2,30 P. SI. 
10.55 A. SI. 
8.45 
7,10 
3.10 A. SI. 

i.aS A. M. 
12,.™ A.M. 
11,25 P. SI. 

8.37 

665 

'3,45 

1 05 P, M. 
11.00 A. SI. 


TexM Hill 






Casa Grande 

ar Tucson Iv 


Iv Tucson ar 










1.03 
3.55 
COO P. >c. 




Gasfe." ;■.; 

ar Deming iv 





















TIONS. 


Stage Connec 


From 


To 


Miles. 


P-iRE. 


Maricopa 


Phcenix Oaily 

Prescott " 


2S 
150 


§5 00 
25 00 


Casa Grande. . 


Florence Dailji 

Pinal •" 

Riverside " 

Silver King .. . " 
Globe City... . " 


30 
62 
06 
67 
.126 


5 00 
9 00 
10 00 
10 00 
20 00 


Tucson 


Q Y ■ Daily, 

isan Aavier..s'«)irfa(,s£;j:. 
Arivaca.... " 
Oro Blanco. 


7 

70 
76 


1 50 

6 00 

7 00 


l^'Oac S-.SaUlrd'm 

Magdakna. " 
Plermosillo. " 
Guaymas.. . Tuasdays 


60 
135 
275 
370 


5 00 
10 00 
18 00 
26 00 


Altar Mondays 

Guayma's via Altar " 


160 
430 


10 00 
30 00 


Pantano 


Harshaw Daily 

Patagonia " 

AVashington . . " 


42 
42 
51 


6 00 

6 00 

7 50 


Benson 


Contention Cy. Daily 
Tombstone.... *' 


22 
31 


4 00 
4 00 


Lordsbnrg. . . . 


Silver City... .Daily 


55 


8 75 


Deming 


Ft. Cummings.Z>ai7i, 

Terminal k.^t. as.. F. 

R. R., via Cumming 


IS 
40 


4 00 
8 00 


Mesilla,viaOiimrainy Daily 
El Paso, via Mdsilla " 


80 
130 


12 00 
19 50 


El Paso 


San Antonio 

Eastland 

(TEXAS & PACIFIC RY. ) 


500 
450 




^IcTpE L00P.3K 

"The only Eaih-oad Engineering Work o£ this 
1 luature where the ro.\1) is m.ade to cross itselk. It is 
l.ieated midwav between Keenb and OliiAitD, 352 miles troin San 
Franeisco. Length of Loop, 3795 feet. Elevations: lower, at 
Tnnnel 9, 2956 feet ; upper, at grade over Tunnel 9, 3034 feet 
Difference in elevations, 78 feet. 

The SAN fEBNANDO TUNNEL i» 6907 feet in length, 
bein" one of the lonRest railroad tunnels in America. It is be- 
tween Newhall and Sis Fbrsando, 456 mUes from San Franoisoo, 
and 26 miles from Los Angeles. 

The S. P. R. K., two miles west of InJio, vasscs Ulow the 
hmcl of the Sea, and continues below it tor 61 1, lies tlience east- 
ward, tiie lirealcsl deptli reached beiiii/ .■aijeel. 










XColortHl^X ■jli!,l\.\^y .SaiaaJ^^ 



JE/iritjMta 






"94 v-,/ 



Railroads. 

The Diario Official of Mexico has lately published tlie contracts or concessions 
made by the General Government with the several railroad companies for the con- 
struction of railways through the different parts of the Republic, which, in sub- 
stance, are as follows : The celebrated enterprise of Sefior Simon and Seiior Sulli- 
van is called the " Ferrocarril Central Mexicano," or Central Mexican Railroad. 
This line is to be constructed from the city of Mexico through the State of Leon, by 
way of Queretaro, Celaya, Salamanca, Irapuato, Guanajuato, and Silao. From 
Leon it will continue north to the Paso del Norte on the Rio Grande, through the 
States of Aguas Calientes, Zacatecas, Durango, and Chihuahua. This enterprise of 
Sullivan will also have terminating lines at Manzanillo and Natividad, passing Toluca, 
Maravatio, Acambaro, Morelia, La Piedad, and Zamora, to points on the Pacific 
between Morelia and Maravatio, touching San Luis, Saltillo, and Monterey, as far 
as Laredo Pass of Aguilla, in the State of Tamaulipas, on the Rio Grande, about 
150 miles from the mouth. The general termination of these lines on the Rio 
Grande is uncertain. The friendly tone of the message of the President of the 
Republic on this enterprise shows a desire to add further concessions, until the 
roads will ultimately reach from Tepic to Rosario, Mazatlan, and Culiacan by way 
of Corala in Sinaloa. In the State of Chiapas a road is to be constructed in the 
direction of Guatemala. In the States of Hidalgo, Zucatan, Tlaxcala, Vera Cruz, 
Puebla, Oaxaca, Sinaloa, Michoacan, Chihuahua, Guerrero, and Tamaulipas, conces- 
sions have been made by the General Government to each respectively, to build 
railroads in those States. . The different concessions of the Government, made 
to diverse railroad companies, embrace the Mexican Central, before men- 
tioned, and another line to the Pacific, passing through Guadalajara, and through 
Jalisco; another by way of Toluca, Morelia, and Zamora, with the stipulation that 
this line is to reach the northern frontier, passing through the cities of San Luis, 
Saltillo, and Monterey ; with many others. And lastly, the Sonora Railroad, from 
Guaymas to Hermosillo, and thence north to the frontier, connecting either at El 
Paso, or near there, with the Southern Pacific or A. T. & S. F. R. R., by way of 
Ures^ on the Sonora River. If it connects at El Paso, or near that point, instead 
of Tucson, it will pass along the Sonora River by way of Ures, Arispe, and Santa 
Cruz. 

On the 28th of December last, subscription was opened in New York for 
$7,500,000 in bonds, and the same amount of stock, of the Mexican National 
Railway — $5,500,000 having been already subscribed — to build the main interna- 
tional line embraced in the Palmer-Sullivan concession from the Mexican govern- 
ment. The stock of this company is owned by a New York company, and con- 
nected with the railroad interests of Thomas Scott. The one from Vera Cruz to 
Mexico is owned by a company in London, and is now running ; with many others. 
These grants thus open the way for the inter-oceanic railway at Tehuantepec, the 
line from Guaymas to the United States frontier, and two leading trunk lines which 
are to establish communication between the Mexican capital and the American 
system, with two branches to the Pacific. Thus we will soon be in direct com- 
munication with all this vast territory lying south of the United States. The 
Daily Journal of Commerce of this city thus comments on these facts, in an issue 
of January last : " Such an event will be of incalculable importance to both coun- 
tries. It will establish more closely the ties that should unite sister republics, 
open up new lines of trade and commerce, and develop in Mexico a commercial 




CENTRAL PACmCRAILR 
SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILRi)AD 



A, I 



11 

prosperity and growth unparalleled in all her former history. The benefits to the 
United States will also be large and increasing. A new outlet will be furnished 
their manufacturing industries, a new market for their merchants, and a new 
demand for their crops. If no serious obstacles are put in the way of the com- 
panics constructing the lines to the American frontier, it will not be five years 
before connection is made with the United States' vast network of railroads, and 
direct communication established by rail from New York to the City of Mexico." 

Captain James B. Eads and party of engineers, composed of Messrs. GrifiSn, 
Corthell and V/illiams, left for the Isthmus of Tehuantepec on the 23rd instant, 
on a survey for his great ship railroad. 

From a telegram appearing in the Evening Post of this city, from St. Louis, 
dated January 6th, it appears that the Mexican Central Kailroad has purchased a 
site for their depot, shops, etc., at El Paso, securing 100 acres for that purpose. 
Colonel Nut, the agent, says engineers are now in the field surveying a line to 
Chihuahua, thence to the City of Mexico ; and track laying, south of El Paso, will 
probably commence by April 1st, or as soon as the Atchison, Topeka and Santa 
r6 road* reaches that point. Thus, it appears the great republic of the south will 
soon be in communication by railroads in every part of her vast territory with the 
United States. Besides these railroads, Mexico city is already in communication 
with Vera Cruz and many other points by railroad and telegraph lines. The 
latter always are stipulated for in each concession ; in some instances, telephones 
also. Alamos, in Sonora, is in communication with the principal mines in the 
vicinity by telephone. Hermosillo communicated with Guaymas by telegraph ou 
January '7th, last. 

Steamship Lines. 

Besides the stages that run from Santa Fe, in New Mexico, and Tucson, to nor- 
them Sonora, as well as the cavalcades and wagon trains that are continually 
passing over the highway from El Paso to Chihuahua, there are many steamship 
lines from New York and New Orleans, touching at Vera Cruz. Also a line of 
steamers, run by the Mexican Steamship Company, from Mazatlan to San Francisco, 
touching at La Paz and other ports ; the fare to Mazatlan being only f 75, includ- 
ing meals, berth, &c. The same steamers also pass up the Gulf of California to 
the port of Guaymas, and one steamer lately built, owned by Mr. Andrade, also 
goes up the Gulf to the port of La Libertad and other points, and we understand will 
eventually estabUsh a connection with the mouth of the Colorado River. From the 
Diario Official we obtain the following : 

" The Executive has passed a contract with the Morgan, Louisiana and Texas 
Steamship Company. In virtue thereof, said Company engage themselves to es- 
tablish a line of steamers to ply between Morgan City and the port of Vera Cruz. 
The steamers are to touch, both on coming and going, at Galveston, and are to per- 
form two or three round trips monthly. The Company are to receive a subsidy of 
$300 per round trip, and take the engagement of carrying the public and official 
correspondence for all the intermediate ports touched at by said steamers. 

" Another contract has also been passed with a Californian company of steamers, 
modifying the one which had existed hitherto, and this on more favorable terms - 
for the public treasury. In virtue of this contract the steamer " Newbern" will 
make monthly trips between the ports of Mazatlan, Sinaloa and San Francisco, 
(California) touching both coming and going at the Mexican ports of Guaymas, La 
Paz, Cape San Lucas and Magdalena Bay. The communication between these im- 
portant Pacific ports has thus been regularly organized, an advantage which will 
more than compensate the expenditure of $1800, which are to be paid to that 
company as a subsidy for each round trip. 

" In speaking of mail steamers we must here state that there exists besides 
another line that renders important services to the maritime traffic of the Gulf — 
the one of the Messrs. Alexandre and Sons, of New York, whose steamers make 
weekly trips, in those months that the quarantine laws allow them, from New 
York to Vera Cruz, touching at Frontera, Campeachy, Progreso and Havana, and 
from New Orleans to Vera Cruz, touching at Tuxpam, Tampico and Matamoros 
every three weeks." 



Ill 

Besides these contracts with mail steamers, the President of the Republic " is 
also making efforts for the establishment of a national bank. To sum up : Mexico 
has already entered into a path of true progress, giving a palmy proof of the same 
with the earnestness of her children, for the constructing of great railway hues 
which are to thoroughly change the country, and with the realization of every 
material improvement." 

Restrictive Laws Against American Citizens, and the 

Remedy. 

Before investing in real estate in any of the border States of Mexico, a matter 
of first importance is to see that the Mexican Government repeals all laws and de- 
crees of prohibition against the acquisition of this class of property by American 
citizens. A treaty should also be entered into with the Mexican Government by 
the United States for the protection of American capitalists, prohibiting the pass- 
age of any or all laws against the title to property, personal or real estate, and 
mines of American citizens located within the boundaries of the Mexican Republic. 
This treaty should be broad, and apply either to American citizens residing in 
Mexico, or in the United States, or in foreign lands. 

The direct cause of the existence of these laws, which we shall publish in a 
separate pamphlet, is the fear of the Republic of Mexico losing portions of her ter- 
ritory. This, however, could be obviated by inserting a clause in the proposed 
treaty, protecting the Mexican Republic from the loss of any portion of her terri- 
tory through the acts of American citizens or foreigners crossing from our borders. 
A clause should also be inserted against annexation of any portion of her territory 
to the United States, either in rebellion against the General Government, or by the 
consent of any of the States, without the consent of the Republic of Mexico. Such 
a treaty, solemnly entered into between the two nations, would be supreme in its 
binding effects, and an adequate protection would then be extended to American 
citizens who might invest capital in Mexico, and an equal and adequate protection 
to the Mexican Government. Our present treaty is very defective and should be 
amended. Its principal objection is the effect of the loss of citizenship upon titles 
to real estate granted by either Government to citizens of the opposite nation. This 
we offer as a suggestion, and call especial attention to it, on account of the large 
amount of capital of American citizens that has been and is now being invested in 
Mexico. 

This important subject should not be overlooked by those of our fellow-citizens 
who desire to invest their capital in the Mexican Republic. There has been, and 
is now an erroneous opinion prevailing that all laws of restriction have been re- 
pealed, and that a good and valid title to real estate may be obtained by pur- 
chase from Mexican citizens : but this is not true, unless all the laws are complied 
with by the pwchaser. 

Thus we see the necessity of the repeal of all laws of this character, and a 
treaty entered into and ratified as soon as possible, as before mentioned. In fact, 
we are assured by responsible Mexican citizens that some degree of alarm is 
already spreading in Mexico in view of the large emigration crossing the borders 
into her territory ; and the next Mexican Congress, which convenes on April 15th 
next, will adopt prompt measures for the protection of the republic. It will be of 
the utmost importance, therefore, for the present owners of property in Mexico to 
push this matter before the two Governments as soon as it may be done, and 
secure themselves by an additional clause in both the repeal laws and proposed 
treaty, (should such a treaty be entered into) in order to avoid future trouble and 
possible loss of all their investments. The whole matter can be arranged satis- 
factorily, if attended to promptly and properly without undue haste on the part of 
either nation. Vast interests are involved that will require careful managemenl, 
and the exercise of clear-headed judgment, free from all bias or prejudice, as well 
as directed by wise statesmanship. 

Citizens of both nations should be at liberty to acquire real estate 
•within the limits of each territory, without hindrance by either power, 



IV 

and without hazarding any portion of the territory of either republic. 
This -will become necessary in order to develop our mutual commercial 
interests. There should be no hesitancy on the part of either nation 
to accomplish this, for upon it "will depend, in a great measure, all 
future commercial as well as friendly relations between the United 
States and Mexico. 

Americans should abandon all Utopian and fanciful dreams concerning the 
manifest destiny of the republic, and place our nation upon a substantial commer. 
cial basis in our intercourse with foreign powers. 

In order that our readers may see for themselves the laws that now exist, which 
reveal the true policy of Mexico, we shall publish shortly a portion of the Ap- 
pendix in a pamphlet, separately, containing those portions of the prohibitory 
laws directly applicable to American citizens, in both Spanish and English. The 
greater part of these laws have never before been translated into English, there- 
by causing the serious blunder made by many American capitalists, who looked 
more upon the opportunity for profitable investment than calculating upon, or even 
without knowing, the risk involved. Others have taken desperate chances, well 
knowing the result if Mexico chooses to adopt a course opposed to their inter- 
ests. Others again have imagined that all these laws were unconstitutional, and 
a decision of the Supreme Court of Mexico would satisfactorily settle the whole 
matter ; but I am assured, from a reliable Mexican source, that the policy of 
Mexico — which she has been forced to adopt since the experience of the Texas ac- 
quisition by the United States — will compel her to strain the Constitution, if neces- 
sary, to protect her territory on the ground of public policy, if no other means of 
relief is presented. Besides, such a decision is attended with an enormous ex- 
pense, and would only benefit the parties to the suit. 

The Constitution of the Republic was adopted February 5th, 1857, and repealed 
all former laws contrary to its provisions. But whether its provisions effect the 
restrictive laws before mentioned, is a question susceptible of considerable doubt, 
from the fact that these restrictive laws were passed as measures of public pol- 
icy, and are not repealed by any express terms of the Constitution. By referring 
to those portions of the Constitution before mentioned, it will be seen that a dis- 
tinction is very broadly drawn between Mexican and naturalized citizens of the Re- 
public, and foreigners ; but does not, in any manner, extend the privileges of for- 
eigners beyond the rights contained and set forth in Section III, Article 80, Title I, 
which guarantees to them the rights established by Section I, Title I, viz : "Every 
man is free to adopt such a profession or industrial pursuit as he may prefer, 
the same being useful and honest, and to enjoy the products thereof, etc." "Nor 
shall any one be hindered in the exercise of such profession, etc., unless by judi- 
cial sentence, when the same prejudices the rights of a third person, or by exec- 
utive order dictated in terms prescribed hy law, in case the same offends the rights of 
society. ' ' 

Look at it as we may, the whole proviso rests upon " the rights of society," or 
public policy. What are those rights ? The Mexican Government possesses the 
exclusive prerogative to determine those rights. Protection of those rights is a 
matter of public policy, which is paramount to the rights of individuals. Hence, 
under these restrictions, providing they are unrepealed, no Mexican citizen — with- 
out taking into account the rights of foreigners — has a right to complain because he 
cannot dispose of his property to aliens, who do not comply with the laws provided 
for under the Constitution, nor to that class of aliens not contemplated therein 
Nor does the Constitution bestow upon him a right to '^offend the rights of society" 
by entering into business relations that are contrary to public policy. 

Then, alter drawing the distinction clearly between the rights of foreigners and 
the rights of citizens of the Republic, native or naturalized, no clause is found that 
gives to the foreigner any other privileges than are bestowed upon Mexican citizens 
or foreigners under the laws adopted in accordance with the Constitution. Meas- 
ures of public policy are undoubtedly referred to in Section I, Title I, of the Con- 
stitution heretofore mentioned. Its guaranties are thus modified and restrained 
by all laws adopted as measures of public policy. That this is the general accep- 
tation of the meaning of the terms of the Constitution appears from all the subse- 



quent laws passed by the Mexican Congress, and also from the very important fact 
that no decisions are extant contrary to the foregoing. But this is not all. The 
law of the 20th of July, 1863, was cited as law by the report of June l7th, 1875, 
of the R. R. Commissioners on the Sonora R. R. This law prohibits citizens, 
native or naturalized, of the nations bordering on the Republic from ever acquiring, 
by any title whatever, vacant or public lands in any of the States bordering upon 
those nations, and more especially the lands included in the territory of Lower 
California, and the States of Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, New Leon and Tamauli- 
pas. If this is a measure of public policy, then indeed is there no right guaranteed 
to foreigners desiring to settle within the limits of the aforementioned territory 
and States, for the purpose of engaging in the pursuits and industries of agriculture 
and stock-raising, for they are prohibited from ever acquiring a title to public or 
unoccupied lands in any of the border States and territory, under a law passed by 
virtue of Fraction 24 of Article 72 of the Federal Constitution. 

Thus, either the Constitution does not give them this guaranty of entering into 
those pursuits and industries, on the ground of public policy, or else the law of 
July 20th, 1863, is unconstitutional. That such a law was anticipated in the 
meaning of the Constitution, appears from Section I, Title I, and the Fraction 24 
of Article 72. This, however, applies, we are told, only to vacant or unoccupied 
public lands. But this is open to much doubt, from the fact that it applies also 
to the lands owned bjt Mexican citizens, on the ground of public policy, which con- 
demns the use of landed estates against the public good, in disposing of them to 
persons inimical to the good of the Republic, thereby making the plain spirit of 
the Constitution of no effect, and withdrawing the protection of the general Govern- 
ment from the frontier states. 

The intent of the Constitution and the laws passed both before and since its 
adoption are the same, viz : The prohibition of foreigners, (American citizens) 
from settling on the frontier, and thereby taking possession of a portion of Mexi- 
can territory. 

The Mexican government has proclaimed, without equivocation, that these laws 
are intended to protect her frontier ; and indeed it might be said, they constitute 
the only barrier left to a nation, that has had reason to fear for her existence 
among the governments of the earth, and now lies at the mercy of a powerful na- 
tion, a considerable portion of which is even desirous of acquiring further territory 
Bonth of her borders, with a view to her ultimate absorption. 

A telegram has lately flashed across the wires that a powerful element in the 
United States are urging upon American capitalists the necessity of securing the 
Panama Canal as United States territory, and thus secure the key to the com- 
merce of the world. This is being urged secretly upon Congress, it is said, and 
force is hinted at as the ultimate means to secure the object. Whether this be 
true or not, annexation of Mexico is the ultimate outcome of the Monroe doctrine. 
This doctrine — save when applied to European nations, in which Mexico joins with 
us in her laws relating to the States and foreign nations — is a piece of arrogance 
that is unworthy of any nation, and an attempt to use the political sentiments of 
an honored and illustrious ex-President to carry out a selfish purpose is unwar- 
ranted, and will arouse an opposition in the United States and Mexico that will not 
only retard but actually imperil their mutual commercial relations, as well as the 
large property interests of Americans in Mexico, and result in a positive loss of 
the trade with Mexico. 

That American capitalists should desire to control or own the Panama Canal, 
or the Nicaragua Canal, and hold this important element in the world's commerce 
is natural and proper enough; but to go any farther than this is actually imperiling 
the object to be attained, viz : to hold that commercial vantage ground, and secure 
the trade of Mexico also. It simply resolves itself into two dilemmas if extreme 
measures are resorted to. On the one hand, the acquisition of the Isthmus and the 
loss of the trade of Mexico ; or on the other, the securing of that trade by friendly 
relations, and satisfaction with our present acquisitions of territory, with a friendly 
control of the Isthmus by a liberal expenditure of private capital. The latter we 
take to be the most sensible course, and in our opinion more likely to secure the 
desired result. These restrictive laws before mentioned will never be repealed 



VI 

until the United States gives a solemn pledge by treaty stipulation repudiating any 
desire for annexation of Mexican territory without the consent of the Mexican 
people. 

Manner of Acquiring Real Estate in Mexico. 

Land is acquired in Mexico by denouncement, purchase, donation, accession, pre- 
scription, adjudicatidjn and inheritance, in accordance with the laws heretofore 
mentioned. The law relating to Baldios Terrenos limits the acquiring of said lands 
to 2,500 hectares (about two and a half acres to each hectare) tD each denouncer, 
but this may be increased at the pleasure of the Government. The price of public 
lands has varied in different localities. The law of 1863 and 1864, Leyesde 
Reforma, page 177, vol. 2, placed the price of public land in the territory and 
States named as follows : Lower California, 12 cents per hectare ; Sonora, Chihua- 
hua, Sinaloa and Durango, 25 cents ; Coahuila, New Leon and Tamaulipas, 18 cents; 
and the highest, viz, $3.50 in the States of Guanajuato, Pueblo, Tlaxcala, Toluca, 
and Mexico. The prices under this law have been changed to some extent, how- 
ever, we are informed by Judge Galan. This is probably owing to the progress 
made in railroads, and increasing prosperity, and the numerous colonies since 
organized. All the inhabitants of the republic are privileged to acquire public and 
private lands by any title whatsoever by the laws, except citizens, native and 
naturalized, of the nations bordering on the republic, who cannot by any title ac' 
quire public lands in any of the border States. 

Foreigners may be admitted to the privilege of citizenship by naturalization, 
or by the purchase of real estate, or by having Mexican children, provided they do 
not manifest a desire to keep their nationality, and are of the age of 21 years if 
unmarried, or 18 if married, and possess an honest means of livelihood. Any 
Mexican citizen inhabiting the republic may denounce vacant lands in any of the 
States bordering on the frontier. 

Query 1st. Can an American, after becoming a naturalized Mexican citizen, 
claim the same privilege ? 

There are Mexican lawyers of the opinion that Art. 2nd of the Ley de Baldios, 
July 20th, 1863, prohibited Americans from ever acquiring, by any pretense what, 
ever, vacant lands, by any title whatsoever, in the border states, even though they 
become naturalized Mexican citizens, in good faith. It has been the policy of 
Mexico, ever since the loss of Texas, to prevent the acquisition of lands in the 
border states or territory by Americans, native or naturalized. 

Query 2nd. If this opinion be incorrect, and former Americans may acquire 
vacant lands in the border states; in the event of their returning to the.United 
States and remaining there for two years, with the intention of never returning to 
Mexico as Mexican citizens, will their title to said lands be forfeited ? 

The treaty of July 10th, 1868, provides that such return and absence shall be 
deemed a renunciation of said citizenship ; which, however, may be rebutted by evi- 
dence to the contrary ; yet, when the fact is established of renunciation of natural- 
ized citizenship, what effect will this have on titles to former vacant lands from the 
government, since they are no longer Mexican citizens, but are now classed among 
aliens contemplated in the restrictive laws ? 

This is a problem not so easily solved. A Mexican becomes an American citi- 
zen, or declares his intention to do so, and pre-empts a quarter section of vacant 
land of the United States, and obtains a patent therefor. H'^ then holds the land 
under the highest title known to the law. He returns to Mexico, and remains 
there two years, with the intention of never coming back. Does his title to the 
land here become forfeited ? If so, to whom and how ? This question, once 
solved, determines the foregoing query, as the treaty is the law in both countries. 

Query 3rd. Whether the power vested in Congress " to prescribe the rules under 
which the pubhc lands may be occupied," by Fraction 24, Art. 72, of the Mexican 
Constitution, is affected by the aforesaid treaty? If not, whether said constitution 
does not authorize Congress to pass a law additional to the law of July 20th, 1863, 
revoking titles held by Americans to lands received from the Government of Mex- 
ico, who have lost their naturalized Mexican citizenship ? 



Vll 

Query 4th. Whether the said constitution vests in Congress the power to 
revoke all titles held by American citizens from Mexican citizens to real estate in 
any of the border states, or all of them, as a measure of public policy contem- 
plated by tlic constitution, and in harmony with the spirit of the laws of Mexico, 
which prohibit American citizens from ever acquiring real estate from the govern- 
ment in any of the border states ; said laws being intended to protect the frontier ? 

The following manner of acquiring real estate applies to American citizens : 

1st. In order to acquire a title by government grant to public l.inds in the border 
states of Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, New Leon, and Tamaulipas, and the terri- 
tory of California, (such a title being doubtful, to say the least) it becomes neces- 
sary for American citizens to renounce their nationality by naturalization, and 
become residents and domiciled in, the republic; providing naturalization grants the 
privilege of acquiring a title to public lands after naturalization. 

2nd. In order to acquire a valid title from a Mexicaji citizen to real estate in 
any of the aforementioned border states, the American citizen must become a 
resident and domiciled in the Republic of Mexico. 

8rd. In order to acquire a title by denouncement — providing it can be acquired — 
to vacant lands from the government, an American citizen must become a natural- 
ized Mexican citizen, and a resident and domiciled in the republic. This will 
apply also to lands held by possession, or prescription, without a title, from the 
government. 

The procedure in denouncement of public lands is as follows : 

Manner of Denouncing Public Lands. 

The following legal opinion touching the denouncement of vacant lands, by 
Hon. Judge Carlos F. Galan, formerly one of the magistrates of the Supreme 
tribunal of Sinaloa and. Lower California, but now practicing law in this city, is 
given to the public with the permission of Judge Galan. 

"A petition is presented to the District Judge, (Federal) describing the land by 
metes and bounds. The Judge orders the denouncement to be published in a 
newspaper for a period of three weeks. If no opposition is made, the Judge orders 
a survey of the land denounced, to be paid for by the denouncer, but in accord- 
ance with certain rules given by the government. That done and presented to the 
Judge, the expediente is given for examination to the District Attorney, who ob- 
jects or not, as the case may be. In case of objection, the Judge orders a new 
survey, or whatever may be needed, in accordance with the District Attorney's 
opinion. When all is found correct, the Judge adjudicates the land to the de- 
nouncer ; a certified copy of all the proceedings is taken at the expense of the de- 
nouncer, and sent to the Governor of the state where the land is situated. He re- 
ports favorably or otherwise, and sends the papers, always at the expense of the 
denouncer, to the Minister of Fomento, in Mexico, and there the papers remain till 
their turn comes, and then the Minister may or may not issue a patent. That is- 
sued, it is sent to the District Judge, who gives the judicial possession of the land, 
(not gratis, however) and the patent is delivered after paying for the land." 



TON ITE 

PATENT 

SMOKELESS BLASTI NG POWDER. 

This Powder has been in use in England for five years, and its consumption has steadily- 
increased ; the sales this year being quite 25 per cent, more than in 1879. It has given the 
greatest satisfaction, and wherever it has received a trial, it is preferred to any of the other 
high explosives on the market, on account of its remarkable merits, which will be even more 
highly appreciated on this coast than in England, owing to the greater extremes of heat and 
cold in our Mining Districts. 

It does not FREEZE. 

It does not DETERIORATE when kept in HOT PLACES. 

It does not give off NOXIOUS FUMES. 

It does not contain Nitro-Glycerine, Chlorate of Potash, Sulphur, 
Picric Acid, nor any other substance v^hich explodes by friction, hence 
it can be considered the Safest Blasting Powder in use, yet when prop- 
erly detonated it has no superior in strength. 

Tonite is destined to supersede Nitro-Glycerine Powders as surely as they have superseded 
common gun-powder, as the miners will quickly appreciate the yalue of an explosive which, 
while as strong as Giant Powder, gives off no Noxious Fumes, does not Freeze, does not lose 
its Strength with age, and is much Safer to handle. In offering this "explosive of the future," 
as it has been called by prominent scientists in Europe, we ask consumers for a share of their 
patronage, and a chance to prove our assertion. Please address all communications to 

TONITE POWDER COMPANY, 

218 California Street, San Francisco, Cal. 

HAMILTON SMITH, Jr President 

WM. LETTS OLIVER General Manager 

RALPH L. SHAINWALD Secbetaby 



ESTABLISHED IN 18S2. 

JOHN TAYLOR & CO. 



IMPORTERS OF 



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AGENCY UNITED STATES CiRTRIDGE CO, 



Manufacturers of all kinds of 



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LOWELL GUN CO. 

Manufacturers of 

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Published for every out-going Mexican and Central American Steamer, and 
giving a complete Review of the Market since the sailing of the previous 
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Advertisements translated free of charge and inserted at liberal rates, for 
those who wish to reach 1500 Merchants and Tradesmen in the above named 
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returns made in the same manner, or by check or certificate of deposit. 

CHARGES. 

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THE ARGOKAXTT, 

AN AH^ERICAN JOURNAL 



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PUBLISHED AT SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 

THE AEGONAXJT is a representative journal of American ideas and liter- 
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SECOND EDITION 

Will soon be issued, containing 

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 

MINES, RAILROADS, &c. 



FOR THE USE OF 



Travelers. Mining Experts and Traders 
■with Mexico. 



TO MERCHANTS OF THE UNITED STATES, 

And all who desire to engage in 

TEADE WITH MEXICO 

A SPECIAL EDITION WILL BE PUBLISHED, 

CONTAINING 

A Complete List of the Business Men of the Pacific 
Coast in Mexico, Central and South America. 



Address, 

LEOISrilD^S H:A.IVIILT0N, Esq. 

Corner Clay and Montgomery Streets, 
SAN FRANCISCO. 



Jj 



.A S A 



NO^V TN I>RESS. 



RESTRICTIVE LMD LAWS 

AGAINST 

AMERICAN CITIZENS ACQUIRING REAL 
/ ' ESTATE IN ANY OF THE BORDER 
/ STATES OF MEXICO. 



IN SPANISH AND ENGLISH. 



COMPILED BY 



LEONIDAS HAMILTO:Nr, Esq. 



AND TRANSLATED EY THE 



Hon. Judge CARLOS F. G-ALAN, ex Supreme Judge op Sinaloa and 
Lower California, 



TOGETHER WITH 



THE MINING LAWS OF SPAIN AND MEXICO, AND 

MODIFICATIONS BY THE STATES OF SONORA, 

SINALOA, CHIHUAHUA AND DURANGO. 




Another Edition of the 

BORDER STATES of MEXICO 

Is being printed, also containing a 

Complete List of all the Principal Business Men on the 

Pacific Coast South of California, including 

Mexico, Central and South America. 



AVILL SOON BE READY. 



A COMPLETE MAP 

Sonora, CliilirLaliua, Sinaloa and Durango, 
and LoAver California. 

From the Latest OfBcial French and Mexican Surveys, with Location of 

Mines, etc. 

By LEONIDAS HAMILTON. 




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